|
|
Oil Filter
So I discover viewing videos on Yoo Boob Toob of oil filter quality. The site host videos of folks cutting into oil filter, counting pleats, rating the check valve seals, and weighing the filter elements assembly ...
That FRAM uses cardboard in the construction of the filter elements is bothersome. Even the Extra Guard versions.
I'd always used the Frame PH-8A as it is larger, more filter area, for the 240s I'd had with manual transmission. (No auto transmission oil cooler lines.) Same model for the B30 in 164. Though I forget the OEM vendor oil filter and model number. I don't have my 164 green books here.
Frame used to offer the PH16 for Volvo 240 76+. The replacement is even smaller in the last dozen or more years.
Yet I read of quality problems with Wix of the much touted Mann filters (model W 917?)? I'm unsure.
I use Mobil 1 10W40 in all three 1990, 91, & 92 240s.
Fram Orange Cans of Death:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=31757
So, for a normally aspired non-turbo 240 air filter, you can't find one at the WAL*MART or the Autozone off the shelf. The Air Filter for 240 is Volvo PN 9438216 (or 1326352)
Here's the Tasca offering:
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/463505
Cross Reference with Fram PH8A
http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/Fram/PH8A
Cross Reference versus Wix:
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exactmatch.aspx?PartNo=ph8a
Mann is W917.
iPd USA has em, also
Volvo PN Volvo 3517857 is OEM.
Air Filter
Who makes such a filter, than as OEM?
iPd offers Mahle mode LX 59 brand as the better option. They also offer Mann filter. And a third, cheaper filter.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5367/112441-engine-air-filter-1976-1993-240-non-turbo
So:
- I want to use a Fram PH8A filter that is not made by Fram anymore. Just want the larger size filter that uses steel constructions and good check valve, plenty or pleats, blah, blah. For manual transmission 240.
- What air filter brand do you use for normally aspired 240.
And now I have a passenger side rear Bilstein Touring that is knocking. Hopefully something if loose, I guess? I did not tighten it enough on the green 1992 240 GL??
Since 2012, after a new timing belt and new strut mounts on the 1990 240 li'l red wagon, from the miles on the timing belt sticker, I've put only 5000 miles on it in four years?
Oh, and now we have a 1992 Volvo 240 Wagon *5 Speed* - $2300 on the good ol stinky, yet slimy, st. louis craigslist.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5647101844.html
Huh, some rust there in the engine bay, hhwhut. Rust in the stinky St. Louis rusty belt.
"Only 2 small rust spots: 1 below the windshield and 1 around one of the roof rack mounting points. Mileage shows roughly 255,000 miles but the odometer does not work."
I can barely care for the three I have now as it is.
Another Sat-Your-Day night, hangin' out down by the brickboard.com.
Thanks,
Mac Dud.
"Sobriety Blows" in the boozing city with it's crap-hauser-Busch Beer.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
|
|
-
|
|
|
A bit late to the party, but here's my opinion:
Oil filter:
Go for the OEM, i.e. Volvo 3517857 or one of the identical others like the Bosch P3219 or the Mann Filter W 917. The latter is the actual manufacturer.
They should be "Made in Germany", but I have seen reports that production allegedly has been moved to either Czech Republic or Bosnia and Herzegovina.
However, today I received the Bosch version, and it still says Germany. But then there's a square box with the numerals "618". Based on the progession I have seen of this number in the last 15 years, it must be a production datecode. So this one is week 18 of 2016, not particularly recent, so who knows what has happened since then.
I know the reputation of FRAM in the USA. Curiously, the FRAM filter sold in North America is a different type from those sold over here. The former would be a PH7328 while here in Europe I would have to get the PH2861B.
I actually bought the latter once just to tear down. Contrary to its American cousin, the filter element has metal end caps. However, I would rather postpone an oil change and get me the OEM than rush it and use the FRAM, it's filter element was noticeably smaller. On top of that, it was actually more expensive than the far more impressive looking OEM filter.
And being the OEM, Mann Filter (and thus the Bosch and the Volvo) have the correct setting for the pressure relief valve.
Would I go for a bigger filter than the OEM's size? No, definitely not. This is what Volvo deemed suitable, so this is what I use. Besides, a big outside doesn't necessarily mean that the filter area is actually (much) bigger.
Here in Europe, oil and filters aren't really as hyped as in North America, they're just consumables. Maybe if you venture into more extreme performance vehicles...
In the past I have cut open Volvo, Mann Filter and Bosch filters and can confirm that they were identical.
The new Bosch I have sitting here on my desk still has the tell tale four D-shaped inlet holes that betray the Mann Filter origin, so at least that hasn't changed.
Please note that when bought in the USA, Bosch may sell you another filter, made by a different manufacturer. Edit: yup, the 3402, L3402 or D3402, depending on how much money you want to spend. But as I said, here in Europe there's just the P3219 in that simple white exterior.
I just completed my first 100,000 km (62,000 mi) with my 245 which put the clock at 312,000 km (194,000 mi). The compression test I did recently shows a healty engine. So, that's proof enough, I'd say, that these OEM filters do the job well.
BTW, I use the cheapest semi synthtetic 10W40 I can find (€10 per 4 litres), it's API rating (SL) is perhaps not good enough for the most modern engines, it's more than good enough for these old ones. It simply doesn't need "rocket science" oil to reach huge mileages without a rebuild.
If I have to say a bad thing about the OEM filter, it's that the seal may be left stuck on the engine block after removing the old filter. This happened to me once in 10-15 oil changes, but once is one time too many.
Air filter
Don't really care, as long as it looks to be well made.
The first one I bought should have been a Mahle LX 59, but I got a Filtron OP 568 instead. A Polish brand, but belongs to the Mann+Hummel group. I would expect quality to be up there with other reputable brands.
The one in now is a Mann Filter C3843/1, but it doesn't look any worse or better than other brands.
I also have a new one lying around that came at half the Mann Filter's price under the private label of the German parts supplier Skandix.
The C 840 type printed on the side (together with "Made in Germany") betrays it to be a Filtrak. To me a totally unknown brand, but it says to have been around since 1965 and was founded in the former GDR.
I must say it looks fine, and it even has some glue beads at 1/3 and 2/3 running across the filter to keep the pleats evenly spaced, a feature the Mann Filter doesn't have.
The printing on the side of the filter looks so familiar that I wouldn't be surprised they make this stuff for other brands as well.
Fuel filter
Did anyone mention this one?
I recently tore one down after about 69,000 km (43,000 mi) and decided I will stick to the recommended 40,000 km (25,000 mi) interval from now on. Petrol (gas) isn't as clean as it looks, the teardown revealed quite a dirty (but not yet blocked) filter.
A look here: http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w345/jitter007/ScanTech%2097.562%20benzinefilter%20vervuiling%20na%2069.000%20km.jpg
The first one that I took off was the OEM (Bosch), and it looked like it had possibly been on it since the car left the factory... hmm..
Back then I put a ScanTech 97.9562 on, one of those private labels. No idea of the actual manufacturer.
Now there's a Skandix on it, again a private label.
The ScanTech turned out to be a good one. If the Skandix doesn't, I may go for one of the more reputable ones like Bosch, Mann Filter or Mahle/Knecht.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I've always run the Mann W917 or genuine Volvo equivalent on every Volvo I've owned. Haven't had any issues save for one Mann filter that either had defective seal or operator error on the install.
Same with the air filters. No issues.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Adirondack Blues,
And I'll guess you get them on order at some retail website?
I find myself shunning on-line ordering.
I'd rather just go to a store and pay cash.
I miss the sort of common yet specialty import auto parts stores.
One here in the city by the sewer, with the stupid gateway arches, stupid baseball cardinals, and stupid hockey blues was Imparts in like Maplewood or Rock Hill MO.
At Imparts, I remember real Beck-Arnley aftermakret as good as Boge, yet probably made by Boge. Eveything you got was was good and made in North America or Europe. Control arm bushings for upper and lower control arms on 142 or 164 that fit perfect with a press. The gamut of dampers from made in Germany Boge. Real made in Sweden replacement 240 glass. Good glass. Good clear glass. Them windshields were heavy and strong. You can forget Mann products either. Though for B30 it was a huge oil filter that was Mann or Wix or, I dunno. Purolator.
The old Brentwood Volvo building in Brentwood, MO was so cool with a three or four story parking garage with a spiral ramp. In the 70s and 80s they had all these cool old Volvos, BMWs (on trade in, or for repair), and Ferraris (they sold them). The OEM parts were not some premium. So, I would get filters from Brentwood Volvo for the 1975 244 DL (M40, metric B20 F, K-jet) and family members 1973 164 and 1979 245 DL. No biggie.
Nothing like that. Yet Spokane has like three such parts houses. Lighthouse Import Auto Parts is really good, though Aaron is not there anymore. You still get good quality yet it is the modern era. Easy to get Mann there at these Spokane parts houses. They have Mann and Spokane has a huge older VW presence. And you can pay cash and everything. The west coast seems to be better for warehousing and having quality parts in hand.
In the mid-dung-west, the ain't no way folks hate you and your old import, unless you're a rich uncle in the better part of town, far away from Ferguson, MO.
Don't get FAE brake light switches!
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
|
|
-
|
|
|
As far as the filter goes, I have always run a cheap model. The Fram PH-16 is still available and works good on a Volvo Red Block. Sometimes, I run a Purolator filter. After 50 years, I have never had a oil filter fail.
As far as the oil, my Volvo B230's, and in the past my B21's and B20's got (and still get) Castrol 10W40GTX.
Everyone has a opinion, and this is mine.
I have never lost a engine from lack of oiling, and I have never owned a Red Block that used oil (excessively).
|
|
-
|
|
|
Oil viscosity has my attention. Everyone in the thread recommends 5 or 10w40 .. primarily Mobil 1.
But I done a Google earlier, and found a Volvo thread recommending 10w30 as an overall best weight range for Volvo.
I have been using that weight for years in all my various bricks.
So the question is... How does heat relate to this? We have been having some extreme heat of late here in the south, and driving the '90 740GLE (16v) the other day seemed to bring the oil to a thicker consistency, and when I started it the next day.. I had a stuck lifter.
Oil/filter is changed now (10w30 Valvoline blend), and after driving a bit the lifter freed up.
The car is like new in many ways... tight B234 motor with 150k. So 5w40, 10w40 or just stay with 10w30?
Please help me with a better understanding. Thanks.
|
|
-
|
|
|
As I recall, Volvo recommended 10W30 in their owners manual. I think today's wider range of oils weren't available in the 80's and early 90's so that is why Volvo recommended 10w30. Think your fine there. Personally, I also used 10w30 conventional Castrol GTX for years in all my cars until recently. Now I'm completely sold on synthetic. It has reduced oil consumption and help eliminate seal leaks in my cars. Oil change interval can also be safely increased.
People have been migrating towards 5W40 or even 0w40 because of the wider range of temperature protection it offers. I'm in Massachusetts where a thinner weight oil can help in the cold winter temperatures so many repair shops have gone to 5w40 or 0w40. In the south I'd probably stick with 10w30 or 10w40.
Just found this. You might want to check it out. Prepare yourself for some reading though, it might be case of TMI...:)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies.
Done a bit more reading, and there is no doubt that Synthetic has to be the best option, and next change I will try 10w40.
I guess I was still under the impression I would get seal leaks, but with this motor I don't see that.
Thanks again!
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
|
|
-
|
|
|
hi kitty g andrew and other oil sages- i have heard and continue to hear that despite the good characteristics of synthetic oil there is a real risk of leaking due the effect of this oil on the seals and gaskets of older engines. my 92 245 has 240 k and doesnt leak or burn oil. is there something to this or is it an old barracudas tale? and kitty g regarding your reference to fram ph8-A oil filter, isnt that too long to fit on the 240(manual trans)? dont think it will fit between the engine side and the engine mount. if my memory serves me right that number filter is not a shorty. thanks tons oldduke
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hiya Uncle Oldduke!
Happy Friday (all day long)!!!!
Has it been all hot and humid wear you are in Florida-state? Does you A/C work in your Volvo 240s and the other autos in your fleet?
Welp, like you, my Volvo 240s have the three pedals, so no transmission oil cooler lines. It is the automatic transmission oil cooler lines that limits engine oil filter height on 240. The larger, right side (as you're in the driver seat, looking forward) motor mount does not get in the of the taller, slight larger diameter Fram PH-8A oil filter.
Versus the Mann 917 that Uncle Art and other use as it is the OEM spec. The Mann 917 is the same form factor as the Fram PH-16, more or less. At install, they both sit nicely, with room to spare, under the, automatic transmission equipped Volvo 240 with the, oil cooler lines.
Fram used to specify the PH-8A for the B30 engine in the 164. There is also a Purolator filter form factor equivalent. I donut know what oil filter Mann makes that fits the size for the B30.
(Though I'd rather have a separate transmission oil cooler from that built into the engine coolant radiator so we can avoid the 'chocolate milk in your Volvo 240 and later RWD automatic transmission' syndrome! Or is that when the head gasket fails and coolant and oil mix in the engine sump?)
Earlier in this thread, sjulier, mentions the Donaldson P550008:
http://www.filterrecon.com/store/p235/DONALDSON_P550008_LUBE_FILTER_CASE_OF_(12).html
Here's the manufacturer page on the Donaldson P550008
http://www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/search/partdetail/view/P550008-P550008-LUBE-FILTER-SPIN-ON-FULL-FLOW
sjulier mentions the same performance BVP as the Mann 917. I was looking for a quality oil filter that had more filter media that was larger and held more oil in it. I'd always used the Frame PH-8A or, rarely, the Purolator equivalent. Sometimes the Fram PH-16.
Fram PH-8A
http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH8A
I guess no hyphen in Fram oil filter model numbers anymore.
Fram PH16
http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH16
Fram's oil filter for all Volvo automobiles, it appears (very small). The PH7328
www.framcatalog.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=F&pn=PH7328
No Frame spec entry mentions how small a particle is filter, well, filter, versus efficiency. A clue to not use Fram?
And here's the Mann model 917 that is one and the same as Volvo OEM:
https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER%20Katalog%20Europa/Oil%20Filter/W%20917~1
Bob is the Oil Guy Posts this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2991926
See this on the Bob is the Oil Guy page, yet read the entire article:
Does that help, Uncle Oldduke? Sorry to go on so like that.
What do you guys think? I guess the Mann oil filter does it?
The Donaldson P550008 seems alright, yes?
I change my oil once yearly when the first oil change dash light illuminates on one of three 240s, then I oil change (as a verb phrase?) all of them.
Uses Mobile 1 synthetic 10W40. Takes the spent oil in for recycling, always.
Drains oil, inspect and reinstalls the drain plug, then fills the oil filter with fresh oil up to the point you can tip for install without spilling. Apply a film of fresh oil on the seal. I can install from the top. No auto transmission oil cooling lines to get in the way. HA!
Uncle Art's Ode to posting an image here:
Lovely Olympia, WA. Nice and cool and clean air. Or Finland.
Hope that helps.
Buttermilk MacDuffy's Tavern, 337 Main Street, Chico, CA.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Changing oil on three bricks, one a turbo... I try to always get the turbo filter ...whichever brand it is.
Shorter in height... It works on all B230NA / B234 / B230FT.
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Reason for the seal leaks is that the synthetic is cleaning gunk build up and deposits off your seals (like a detergent). This normally happens when there are existing leaks. Initially the leaks may worsen during the cleaning process, then they will quickly disappear once the synthetic has done its thing...
|
|
-
|
|
|
hi kitty g and other sages of filter and earls. my experience with this and various tanks goes back to 64. most of the time in my tanks i have used 10 30 quaker state dino oil. seems best for longevity, engine durability and leak avoidance. used to change oil and filter at 3k but now go to 4-5 k since most tests say engines run hotter burning off sludge and condensation and oil is better. most cars now recommend 5k oil changes. on filters , have used manns on the 92 volvo 245 but for last few years have been using classic purolators which is the grandaddy of filters in this country going back to the 20s. have no bad experience with it and have seen no negative reports. also beats price of most other filter brands. what say you folks? thanks tons oldduke
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hiya Uncle Oldduke,
Happy Friday again!
Welp, in this thread, from jwalker's link to the wikipedia article, I found this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3,000_mile_myth
I'd not used Mann filters very often, though they are the OEM of Volvo we, well, me, knows.
You can see on the you boob toob example filters being taken apart and the people making comment about weight and how many pleats you find in the filter itself.
Why I asked as I viewed a few of these 'oil filter teardown examinations' and the Fram, even the very best Fram rates poorly.
I've not used Purolator oil filters in some time as I do not see them on the store shelf. Though, if I recall, they may rate well in these tests on yoo boob toob.
Oh, thank you. Yet I'm not sage with much of anything. I'll use sage when baking up some turkey things or some rotisseriezed rooster (if I had a rotisserie and could put a well-sage spiced chicken into it).
I just write a lot sometimes.
Hope that helps you.
Happy Friday.
Buttermilk and Potato Chip Boyeeeeeeee
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon Jun 27 20:28 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
|
|
Air Filters
WIX 46111
Hastings AF 836
Fram CA 4365
|
|
-
-
posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Tue Jun 28 20:54 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
|
|
hey Kitty
it's just AIR
it all depends on where you do your driving.
When I took my 75 wagon to Colorado on a paddling adventure, down them dirt roads...I changed more often.
More that you have a face mask that filters out what they now refer to as the PM 2.5. the Diesel Particules that lodge in your lungs and never can be expelled.
Forget the paranoia about your Volvo, think about your lungs.
Always wear an N 95 filter, and shave everyday as the stubble will effect the effectiveness of the Filter.
AIR...Air...i can hurt you too. TALKING HEADS
|
|
-
|
|
Yup, Kitty, sobriety blows (under 0.08%) we hope if you're drivin'. Not sure if the best but I am still a Mann man both for the turbos and the "noormally assipride" long ago convinced by dissecting an orange kiss o'death. But this subject has so many opinions because changing one's own oil is common to every level of DIY car maintenance.
From 2000:
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Why didn't Noah swat those two mosquitoes?
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for this info Art. Cut apart a Donaldson and you'll find it matches the German made Mann W917.
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
If he's testing with oil and not air, that's a pretty intensive curiosity level. I'll have to check out the thread when I have the time. I used to read this when it was on MiniMopar.
Pressure drop is the hydraulic equivalent of voltage drop to determine the resistance of a circuit element. It is how we know when to clean the filter in a spa or the air filter in a large HVAC.
Speaking of "used to" ... My favorite free browser was Opera for a number of years. I notice there are still a few hits on my web page from Opera users. Spellcheck is a boon for some and a bane for others. In the "old days" I used to try to spell correctly because the search engines were not particularly good at recognizing common spelling errors. I recall when I won a poorly attended e-bay auction by checking for "guages" looking for the gauge I wanted. Now that trick is long unavailable.
Your spelling of the title of this thread just immediately reminded me of Inglourious Basterds (https://www.quora.com/Why-was-Inglourious-Basterds-misspelled-purposely-by-Quentin-Tarantino) and I couldn't shake it.
Where I've found poor attention to spelling particularly useful is in debugging software from searches based on typos in log messages. A boon for me.
Okay, my choice of flitters shouldn't be of consequence to anyone -- as I have no tests or evidence it is a good choice. But you asked;)
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
The older we get, the fewer things seem worth waiting in line for.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hiya Uncle Art,
Yep. Sort of what I imagined. Silly me.
I was sort of hastily posting. I'd noticed for the last year Wal*Mart no longer has Volvo 240 air flitters. That means Fram, I guess. And Autozone and the like, lot, seem to require pre-order of both filters.
All three current flitters are sort of dirty. They'd been there for awhile.
I still use Opera 12.17, the final Presto browser. Probably me pinging your website. Opera is now Chromium like Google Chrome. So, I'll keep a FireFox and all plugins up to date. (No Java, though, unless running online Help.)
Speaking of spell check ... heh ... well, we're using, well, I mean me, MS Weird, I mean, Word, version 2007, to document this industrial agricultural equipment. (The whole thing is awful. You breathe in industrial agricultural chemicals. Numb lips and tongue soon follow. Wants OUT.)
Using a Word template with exhaustively established styles. All styles are set to U.S. English and for spell check.
The dialogue in MS Word 2013. Same appearance since before Word 2003 and after. Attribute to a template style or in a selection of the open document.
Word 2007 chooses when and where in the doc it would spell check. Another as yet never to be treated defect or enhancement. Circulate them copies for review. The work group is dysfunctional and never replies to an email. Sick of it.
Yet it does not crash 12 times daily like Word 2013 on Win 8.1. Even with Windows drive indexing disabled. And a local root admin account.
I'd rather stick with Word 2003 and Win XP or maybe 7. It works, through always save as New using two differently named files. Word performs full file validation on Save As New only. So I save back and forth to one of several files titled a bit differently each time, to all files. Save As New ...., Save As New ...., Save As New ......
To stay ahead of the crash. Not quite FrameMaker, yet Adobe ruined FrameMaker from version 9 onward, imho.
A beautiful Volvo 240 rodbrun you have there! Rødbrun?
Would also want dual 240 round head light bulbs. Yet would much rather the 164, still, and a cool and quiet 5000 sq-ft garage. The Jay Leno of RWD Volvo.
A call back for a job in Olympia, WA? Now? 2000 miles away? How many round trip flights to get a Grumpy Cat, "you're too fat," and "NO!"
While on the plane:
66 degrees F yesterday in Arches and Cardinals baseball slimy city. In three days, about 100 degrees F.
Happy Independence Day!
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I used to use Fram all the time until I discovered the BB and now use Mann. I have never had a problem with wither brand.
Dan
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
I used ph-8 and the taller ph-16 back in the day, but now it's the Mann only.
I change oil and filter at about 4000 miles and that seems to work fine. I have not tried synthetic yet as 3 of my 240's don't leak at all and I am reluctant to try.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Whoah, there Nelly!
A huge number of Volvos go hundreds of thousands of miles on filters that are marked Volvo.
You, or others can do better on the web?
Anecdotal evidence trumps Volvo's testing and experience?
Would your observations of construction be better than Volvo's research?
I used to get Mann oil filters from Groton . Mann states that their branded filters have the same construction and specs as their OEM filters.
I submit that filters are relatively inexpensive - no place to pinch pennies.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi there!
Sure liked your "Whoa Nelly" phrase there.
You must be serious and your not horsing around with your sentiment about filters!
I got some of that too!
I'am sorry but I have written off all of these oil and car filters as pretty much a marketing scam.
The K&N filters say it "straightens the air flow" really tosses me into ha-ha land!
Especially when the price label just keep climbing up?
Surgical cotton needed.....hello, bet it's sterilized too!
If you look up those SAE testing specifications on the box and study the < > signs with the microns given, you will find out that they are really only screens or strainers!
Their microns listed but < > are fairly large and have to be in order to pass oil somewhat readily.
This amount is never given in specifics as far as I have seen. They are sold a a "full flow" oil filter. They have to, in case of a collapse or anti drain valve issue happening.
What it really comes down to, with the QPM (quarts per minute) amounts of oil, circulating round and round, the filters run in bypass mode somewhere just above idle. All the oil needed passed cannot pass though a small can and get truly cleaned.
Ever try maintaining 20 to 60 psi of oil flow on a 10 mm pipe line and see how much it can flow. I rest my case, even if, restricted down to 30% of that cross sectional size.
I have noticed that the large diesel truck engines, that use gallons of oil in their sumps, stack them up and they are really big around. Their RPMS are far lower than than gas engines. Their oil pumps must be a lot bigger as most everything else is on those highway locomotives!
Diesel fuel is a real dirty burning fuel though, so that must be it! Pull the oil pan plug and it is black but it's filtered, ah yeah, ok! I'll bite, that it's strained of some very clumpy accumulated particles of SOOT!
A gas engines gas is pretty clear to start out with! It must be those "crusty deposits" of detergent additives or that outside air (dirt) that we are straining. With two filters and the oil gets black?
Ah, that brown to blackish oil, so, it must be the additives, keeping it suspended!
That's IT! It doesn't leave the oil! It is the oil? My My!
So what does an oil filter do again? I need to be reminded.... $3.00 or $13.00 for a oil strainer.... A $35 air straightening filter..... Sorry but I fell off the turnip truck more than a few years back!
I have run toilet paper filters and the oil did stay brown longer but check out the amount of filter paper used in comparison. It filters vertically down through the roll.
Ah but, the Micron size is still unknown but it will take candle soot out of oil!
The oil will stay cleaner all the time and you never have to drain the oil again. That is if you follow their instructions!
As I remember it's every thousand or two thousand miles remove and replace the toilet paper roll and replenish or top off with fresh oil! This replaces the oil that was removed in that roll of absorbent paper and adds new additives!
Frantz oil filters might still be sold on-line, the last time I look.
I can guess why, they never really took off!
Want to pinch a penny and save a can? Toilet paper is about $.70 a roll.
How much more for quote "special" treated thin pleated paper with X Amount of an additives package.
How much is in there and is added to the higher costs really?
It's not like a laundry or dishwasher tablet you can see!
You buy oil for that kind of stuff and I trust the oil guys with their standards more! They cannot blame the filter guys as they "are" and "on" the bottom line, if oil fails!
I bet filter makers don't break a buck-fifty by much, to make the whole thing, under any personalized label, on the same side by side production lines! Same for air filters!
Ok, I'm leaving, my horse died. Sorry, I worked it to death on here again... (:)
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hey McDuff,
Lets see, the element of an oil filter is made out of paper, if the end pieces are cardboard, what does it matter as long as they remain well attached to the filtering element ? The Mahle elements for the V70 have 'cardboard' endpieces (they feel kind of fuzzy) and seem to work just fine. I got over 400,000 miles flogging the guts out of a Chevy 2.8L V6 mostly using Fram filters and Valvoline 10W40.
Right now the 240 is getting Mann filters and Rotella 15W40. I'm sure the motor will last longer than the body. For air filters I like one with lots of pleats and well glued to the gasket. I change them when they fill up with dandelion fuzz or dirt, which ever comes first.
If you are still looking for a PH8-A replacement, look for old Ford I6 or V8 long filters, take your pick of brands. The NAPA Gold line is better than their Silver series. They seem to have an anti drainback valve in the filter. The lifters in the 300 cid 6 in my '91 F150 rattle less with the more expensive filter.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
I use the Donaldson P550008. Same BVP as the Mann W917. $4.50 at the local Kenworth truck dealer. 400 grams vs 300-320 grams for the generic PH-8A. An incredibly robust filter.
Here is one link: http://www.filterrecon.com/store/p235/DONALDSON_P550008_LUBE_FILTER_CASE_OF_(12).html
|
|
|
|
|
