Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

I have 1974 142S with B20F. The fuel injection has been removed and a Weber carburetor installed. It also has IPD Street Performance Cam. I have installed 123 distributor and don't know which setting to use. From the chart it looks like the setting for B20A is closest since that engine is carbureted. There is a big difference in the timing. I have tried the setting for the B20A and also the B20F. I would appreciate some suggestions on which setting to use. BTW, I have 123 distributor on my 67 122S. Compression ratio is 10:1 after rebuild so I used B18B setting and it really screams.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

Did you get the conventional 123 or did you get the 123 'tune' version? The 123 tune version allows you to program any advance curve that you want. Starting with pure speed based advance from something like 10 deg - 1000 RPM rising to 30 - 32 degrees around 3000 RPM with no vacuum component is a good starting place. You can add vacuum advance if you are inclined.

I have a B20E running on MSExtra. My engine cranks with an ignition advance of 10 deg for fast start; but, idle advance (900 RPM) is at 15 deg. That seems to give the most stable idle and lowest idle MAP. I started out with straight engine speed based advance peaking out at 32 deg around 3000 RPM. I have been adding in some MAP based advance to see if that improves fuel economy (its going to be a real long term test period). If you are having trouble with the settings, finding a curve that gives you a pure speed based advance should give you an engine that operates well. My recollection is that some (all??) of the B18 engines had a pure speed based advance curve.

I would stay away from the E (and F curves) if you are not using the B20E / F manifold. The B20E and F distributors had a vacuum retard function which was further complicated by the fact that the E and F did not use a straight manifold pressure reference. The distributor pressure tap came off around the throttle plate (rather than manifold proper) and I think it may have been right on or upstream of the throttle plate so the distributor was getting a manifold pressure reference that was affected by the position of the throttle plate.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

I have the conventional 123 distributor. By trial and error, I found the B20-B setting works the best. Also have some carburetor issues. Engine has Weber 32/36, rebuilt last week but I am swapping it out to SU's. Just received them and a used performance manifold Friday, so I have to rebuild them and pretty them up. Right now the car is running pretty well. I extend my thanks to everyone that replied.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

If B20F is OK, then try B20E curve.
If B20E curve works OK, I would then try the B20E on E85LPG, if that pings, go back to B20E.

Ignition timing is about compression and cam mostly. You have cam and compression like a B20E, so one of those 3 will be the closest, depending on how good your fuel is.

--
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

Thank you for the reply. Since there are 10 different B20 settings on 123 distributor, it was trial and error. Some I eliminated immediately. I tried the B20A, F,E,D settings and all worked, just not very well. Then I tried the B20B setting and it has done the best. I also have Weber carb and Cannon intake. Have watched a detailed YouTube on problems with the Weber. At the end of the video, he whispers 'as soon as I can afford it, I'm going back to SU's' Well, I now have a used OE Volvo performance intake and some SU carbs being shipped to me.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

Weber carbs are extremely good, but the DGV/DFV 32/36 is a carb that is extremly complex because it was designed to give performance with good emisions and economy, hence different sized thoats + a powervalve. One BIG problem is they only flow enough air for 100HP, which is what a 2L Pinto does with one. When Volvo supplied that manifold they selected a 38/38DGAS, which flows a heap more air than the 32/36, I believe it was IPD who were the clueless idiots that sold the 32/36 combos and they should be shot for it.

If I had one of those manifolds, I would adapt a 350 or 500 2bbl Holley to it, a common mod for 2L Pintos. I've done it to friends Escorts and it is a big leap forward from the 32/36DGAV. 500 Holley would beat twin SU's for power, but if you have a stock head, the SU's deliver power and economy.

--
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

Hi Paul,

The reason IPD sells the DGV is that it was the only carb approved by the California Air Resources Board (C.A.R.B.) as a universal swap sor whatever the original equipment was. California has long had the tightest smog regulations in the nation, so if it's C.A.R.B. legal, it also flies in the other 49 states. I had one on our '66 Amazon back when we lived there and the car wasn't old enough to be exempt from smog testing. The would not have been illegal equipment (sold as For Off-Road Use Only), even if it passed emissions testing.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

So IPD can sell a carb and manifold that might be as econimical as a pair of HS6's, won't be as powerful, not matter what you do, because they might meet emmision standards on the rare chance you could actually jet them up for your car. And they charge a fortune, that's criminal.
--
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

I would never recommend a DGV instead of a sound pair of SUs. Just saying why they sold the DGV rather than some more capable alternative.

About six year ago, I put a 38/38 DGES on a big-bore B20 I'd built for a customer. It was supposed to get programmable EFI, but the customer ran out of money so that was the least expensive workaround. It went quite well, but it would outrun the mechanical fuel pump around 90 MPH. The customer needed to drive the car across the country to a new job, so I jast had to get the car driving quickly -- that was good enough for the purpose.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

IPD still carries the Weber conversion. The gentleman I work with from
Carriage Motors in Maine said the same thing about using Weber carb (shoot it). I did not know about the HP limitation on 32/36 but that might explain the oversize jets (170) that are in it.
Anyway the conversion is underway. Thank you for the info.








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

32/36 flows 240cfm, ONE HS6 flows 210, one HIF6 flows 240.

--
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual








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correct setting on 123 distributor 140-160

Would be.helpful if you gaVe settings in Degrees of advance at x rpm. As many of us may not know what 123 uses as settings for B18A etc.







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