Hello everyone!
I posted this on 700 forum as well hoping for an answer.
I was changing the Regina in-tank fuel pump and i noticed the anti-slosh pan or so called (baffle i believe) is floating in the gas tank.Looks like it was glued in the bottom at the factory and now the glue gave up.
Would it create a problem if left loose?
Has anyone used a good glue since this is going to be submerge in gas?
I appreciate all the help you can provide.
Thank you in advance!
Charles.

Dear Charles,

Hope you're well. The anti-slosh baffle likely was factory-affixed using heat to fuse the plastic baffle to the tank bottom. Given the fire/explosion risks inherent to using any heat-generating device inside a gas tank, I'd not try to re-install the baffle using any heat-based process.

I suspect that if the baffle is left loose, it will eventually damage the fuel send unit's barrel. If the baffle is cut into pieces and removed, the fuel gauge reading might vary more than it does with the baffle in place, i.e., after turns or sudden stops.

Having changed in-tank fuel pumps, I realize that access to the fuel tank's opening is limited, especially in a sedan.

The best way to re-affix the baffle is to use a sealant rated for fuel tanks, e.g. Pro Seal (see https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/fueltanksealants/ps890.php )

Both surfaces (the baffle's underside and gas tank floor) must be cleaned to remove any gasoline residues. Gasoline is a mix of various chemicals, some of which are wax-like. If those residues remain on the plastic, they will defeat almost all glues, adhesives, and caulks.

Thus, you must remove fuel from the tank. Once the tank floor is dry, wipe it with a clean, white rag wet with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) a highly flammable solvent. MEK will remove every trace of oil, grease, wax, etc. For each pass, use a fresh, clean, white rag. When the rag no longer is discolored, you've removed all residues. Do the same to the baffle's underside.

Be sure to have plenty of ventilation, while using MEK. Do NOT do this job in a closed garage!!! Wear a respirator, which has filter elements that remove fumes. Do NOT rely on a dust-mask. Those are totally useless, when it comes to trapping chemical fumes.

Apply ProSeal according to the directions. For guidance, see: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf . Position the baffle so that it will still allow the fuel send unit's barrel to seat (pointing downwards and parallel with the fuel tank's rear wall). Press the baffle against the tank floor and allow the Pro Seal to cure.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Dear Spook,
This is the write-up i was looking for!
I have been searching the internet for days to no available,as always you're a life saver!
Thank you so much for your help,your reply is very appreciated!

all due respect you may discover having gone through all this to re glue the slosh pan... down the road in less time than you might suppose its loose again.

if it was me i would swap out the tank with good used one or cut and bend the slosh pan and remove it

This so true the adhesive might not bond to plastic and the baffle might get loose again.I did call couple of junkyards in my area and was told they puncture all gas tanks to empty gas!
I am thinking about cutting and removing the slosh pan for now until i find a good used tank.
I would like to thank you and Spook for your help and valuable replies and i am sure someone else down the road will benefit from your answers!

Charles.

Dear Charles,

Hope you're well. You might ask near-by salvage yard operators to note your need for a fuel tank from a 1993-95 940, Note that 960 tanks have a different design because of the rear suspension; 740 tanks have a lower capacity. A helpful yard operator should be able to hold such a tank for you.

Replacement fuel tanks rarely are needed: they don't rust and the walls are so thick that a puncture will happen only as a result of an unusual road hazard. Thus, you shouldn't have to pay much even though a replacement fuel tank from a US-based Volvo dealer will cost about $1100.00.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hello Spook!
First i would like to thank you for your response.I would like to share what i did today(excuse my English writing) did this in a 1992 740 Wagon.
It has been a week since i emptied and dried the gas tank with rags,and the tank has been venting for a whole week waiting to resolve this issue.I took the RISK and heated the bottom of the slosh pan to the tank, i think it worked,time will tell.
I cleaned both areas using (Acetone) then turned the slosh pan upside down and carefully drilled four holes using my dremel with a small drill bit,then vacuumed all particles and debris from tank,flipped back and seated the splosh pan in the tank.
I had couple of pieces of new exhaust connectors laying around,connected them together and aimed them down the slosh pan at those holes drilled earlier,this is right where the screen filter for the fuel pump sits (the purpose of using those connectors is getting the hot air to the spot where i need it)
I then took my 1500 watts stripper heat gun,aimed it through the exhaust connectors and let the hot air flow through the (connectors tunnel) per say, heating the area for 30 seconds,remove connectors,wait another 30 seconds,heat again and so on.Reason for waiting,did not want the tank to overheat and create more problems.After eight tries,i waited 15 minutes to let everything completely cool down,now the slosh pan is glued well enough to the gas tank!
I just wanted to share what i did,for me it is a temporary fix,i still took your suggestion and called a junkyard and reserved a gas tank out of a future car.
If someone would want to try this please DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK,DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK,I AM ONLY RESPONSIBLE FOR MY OWN WORK!!
Thank you so much and may God bless!
Charles.

Dear trichard,

Hope you're well. When trying to reinstall an in-tank send unit - without first removing the fuel filler pipe's rubber hose (a step since added to the FAQs) - I (in desperation) tried to trim the anti-slosh baffle to make more room to maneuver the send unit.

Long story short, the plastic is very hard (nylon?) and work room is so limited, that cutting tools didn't do much. For the same reasons, bending the anti-sloth baffle is infeasible: one would have to have a very large hand with the strength of a vise-grip pliers. A hand so large is not likely to fit through the tank opening, at least not while grasping the baffle.

The method and materials I suggested require only a single hand and a brush (to spread the adhesive). You're certainly right that the adhesive might not bond to the plastic, even if the plastic is surgically clean.

As to swapping-in a good used tank, that's surely possible, but could be a lot of work if the tank's mounting hardware is corroded.

In short, your points are well meant and so taken.

Yours faithfully,

Spook