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Starting 1800 1969

I haven't started my Volvo in 6 years (B20).
What is the best way to do it? Isn't there something about using a screwdriver on a drill to turn the oil pump to prime the oil? Thanks.








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    Starting 1800 1969

    Just a big screwdriver, no drill. Prime until you get oil at the rockers.

    If it were mine, I would pull it out, clean everything up, polish the crank, etc., then start it. Rings, gaskets, oil pump spring, hone and crank polish is very cheap.

    Starting it with a little rust on the crank is the beggings of a leg hanging out of bed sometime in the future.



    --
    69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual








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      Starting 1800 1969

      Well, I drained all the old gas, washed the tank out with a hose, let it drain for a couple of days then added new gas. Replaced the old rubber gas lines and the filter. Changed the oil and filter, oiled the pistons, used the air hose trick, turned it over by hand and oiled the pistons again. Primed the oil pump with a screw driver and then turned it by hand again. Cranked it without the spark plugs for a little bit and then tried to start it with the spark plugs in it. Wouldn't start at first. Emptied the old gas out of the float bowls, disconnected the gas line and cranked the engine to get all the old gas out of the lines. Connected the gas line and then it fired right up and runs fine.








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    Starting 1800 1969

    Priming with the oil pump is no doubt a great way to get the bearings oiled.
    I would also pour a tablespoon or two of oil in each cylinder as suggested.

    I'd probably even go so far as to dribble some oil down the pushrods to hopefully get some on the lifters and cam lobes.

    Then I'd keep the spark plugs out and turn it over with the starter to bring up some oil pressure and also get some fuel into the pump and fuel bowls.

    Yea, I tend to over-do it sometimes.








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      Starting 1800 1969

      That's not overdoing it--more thorough than my suggestion--good catch. -- Dave








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        Starting a long dormant engine...and 'Overdoing it' 1800 1969

        Guys;

        I remember an engine oil company advert from some time ago stating that "90% of engine wear occurs on start-up"...I think that's mostly hokum if the engine was last run yesterday...there's still plenty of oilfilm on everything. But we can agree that it certainly is true if "yesterday" was years ago...

        I'm less concerned about pulling the Distributor to turn Oilpump (although I would definately do this also to preoil the Crank and Cam bearings)...for engines which haven't run in a year, I just pull the Spark Plugs so there is no compression and let the Starter do the pre-oiling (Ignition Disabled!)...this will also make it easier on Conn Rod bearings...they wont be working against compression, only resistance of surface rust on cylinder walls, and adding a bit of oil into each cylinder will help that...

        What concerns me (a lot more!) is the lack of lubrication on Camshaft and Lifter interface...we all know about soft Cams and rounded off lobes, so lubrication/prelubrication here is of high concern to me! (Cam lobe and Lifter interface is pretty much open to Sump so will have drained completely and be bone dry (and also have surface rust), but still under high preload from Valve Springs...I consider this very BAAAADDD!...opposed to Crankbearings which I'm convinced because they are somewhat enclosed will retain some oilfilm, even over a long storage time).

        If I was going to "Overdo it", I'd completely back of the Rockers AND pour some oil down the Pushrods to prelube the Cam/Lifter area...then spin the Engine for a 30 Secs with no Valves and no compression, then reset Valvetrain and spin, then add Spark plugs and spin, then add (fresh of course!) Fuel, set and enable Ignition and Start...that's how I'd "Overdo it" to give an engine the very best new start. Whadoyathink?

        Cheers








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    Starting 1800 1969

    Yes, you can do that. The pump turns counterclockwise. It takes a powerful drill to push the oil. An old slow rpm 1/2 inch drill has worked for me. It would probably be a good idea to also remove the plugs, squirt motor oil in each cylinder and then with a rag over the spark plug hole give each a blast of compressed air to spread the oil in the cylinders. If you do lube the cylinders--be prepared for a few minutes of heavy smoke when it does fire up. Good luck--bringing a sleeping motor back to life is always exciting. -- Dave








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      Starting 1800 1969

      I strongly suggest you don't use your gas tank at least initially until you are sure the tank is safe to use!!

      I have been inundated with long term not properly prepared sitting cars in the past few years and that is the 1st mistake most people make.

      I use a small gas can with a hose to the fuel pump.




      --
      Eric
      Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
      Torrance, CA 90502








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        Starting 1800 1969

        planetman said " I strongly suggest you don't use your gas tank at least initially until you are sure the tank is safe to use!!"
        Another real good suggestion. I had plenty of warning when I took on an Alfa Spider project. The portable 6 gallon plastic boat tank in the trunk was a clear tip off about a rusty car tank I think (taken care of with POR-15). With some fuel hose and a funnel you can also prime the float chambers for quicker start-up after the oil pressure has been brought up with pre-start cranking. -- Dave







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