Hi I'm looking to build a tool to remove the rear Trailing Arm Bushings on a 90 245 wagon, and everywhere I look, the only link offered seems to be expired, does anyone have a screenshot or link to help me build this dreaded tool? Much appreciated.

hi borkeroo- sorry mea apologia. confused trailing arm on my 92 245 with the torque rods. last year torque rods were rocking and rolling with bumping and thudding noises. original bushings were shot.some of my enemies advised when they heard the noise to junk the old brick and get a car people could remember and i could wave from. anyway took them off and had them pressed out and polys pressed in. reinstalled and problem solved. mistake i made was the press job was a clip. shyster charged me $120. next time will aquire a presser tool like yours. figure it will soak me a lot less than $120. will have to check auto zone or reillys to see if they free loan out this tool. only issue left would be to decide what to do with the $$ i save. what do you advise? thanks tons oldduke

If anyone is building one I would be happy to BUY a second one for me. I and friends have several 240s and I know a guy that I hope will do it for a reasonable price. Located in Indianapolis. This applys to any other DIY tools as well. I could probably loan them out locally. Thanks!

hi trichard- i would love to see a picture of that tool. had to go to the cleaners in clip city to get mine pressed out. can you put a picture of it on here? thanks tons oldduke

you will have to buy some 1/2" nuts but the important pieces are here. the threaded rod is case hardened to a 50 something rockwell. i seldom use this one anymore. built it years ago. it works fine. the steel piece that goes in between the loops welded to the axle is just a plain piece of anything metal to keep the loops from compressing in towards each other.

hi borkeroo- thanks for the pictures. they are very good. been studying them. nowlet me get this straight. first you would remove the trailing arm with the dead bushings. you would then attach /screw in the large end cap to the pipe nipple. on the other end of the nipple you would mount the trailing arm end putting the smaller end cap against the worn bushing, put the threaded rod through and mount the nuts on the ends of the caps and tighten the nuts to push the bushing thru andout into the pocket of the large pipe nipple. installation of the new bushing (grease it) would be done the same way , pushing the bushing in with the smaller end cap. do i have it right? thanks tons oldduke

watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLycNJttl4s

this video aptly demonstrates the most tedious method of doing this job.

1. there is no need to remove the trailer arm other than the rear bolt
2. all the ancillary stuff on the trailer arm can remain in place other than the top nut of the rear shock
3. the rear axle, rear half shaft, dust shield etc etc remain in place with nothing removed.
4. removing the rear spring rapidly facilitates the job

actually the reason i seldom use this as designed is the result of working out a simpler way of extracting the bushing housing from the loops.

1. buy a thick heavy duty washer with 1/2" hole in the middle and an outside diameter 1.5 to 1.625" OD
2. place the hollow cap of the tool pictured over the in side of the bushing on the loop to be removed, slide the rod through this cap and slide the rod through the heavy washer on the out side of the bushing
3. thread up nuts on each end

( note: for maximum torque and minimum chance of stripping the rod treads the formula for max gripping power is the nut length needs to be 1.5 times the diameter of the rod........the nut needs to be 3/4" in threadable length) any less you are not achieving design maximum and any more and you gain nothing

4. i use an impact but a wrench is fine. what you do now is tear the guts of the old bushing out of the bushing housing into the tools cap on the axle pumpkin side. sometimes it peels away easily and some times its a bit of bother

5. once the bushing is a hollow shell get a reciprocating saw with an 8 or longer 18 tpi blade and slice the bushing housing along the loops INNER edge

6. it cuts through quickly since the bushing case is thin steel. whats left is the fragments of the bushing around each loop which can be hammered out fairly easily.

7. the new bushing slides in and normally requires only a few taps with hammer to set.

use the reciprocating saw with care. if done in this manner the job is fairly simple and stress free.

"and everywhere I look, the only link offered seems to be expired"

Huh?

http://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A man will pay $20 for a $10 item he needs. A woman will pay $10 for a $20 item that she doesn't need.

Can I guardedly suggest the burn (OK, holesaw, then burn) it and poly method?

I would have to do a search to find it but if EVER did TAB's again I would try it.

yes, you can... on the fence about poly anything. I get it, the concept at least. but i'm afraid that it'll throw the rest of the ride out of whack. i don't want to start replacing everything with poly. and have some parts stiffer and some parts OE rubbery and worn? idk on that... to balance it, wouldn't front TABs in poly make sense? and I'm not about to do that right now. maybe i'm old fashioned. but the whole "if it aint broke don't fix it/if it ain't poly don't poly it" hold true?...

intregiuied on the hole saw/burn method, but i've had success with the DIY tool method.. even though it was a PITA, I wouldn't want to start a different crazy method with bungled success only to be laid up and still having to resort to making a tool to get it out the way i had originally intended..

If it will cause you mental distress, follow Art's link.

Poly, in a 240, is the best options for the TAB's for longevity. You have judge your comfort level on a non-OEM solution but if you are considering anything but OEM rubber the poly is the ONLY viable option.

Geez, I don't know about that one. I'm intrigued but have my doubts.

Bushes to Poly

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=53077

There are many other how-tos listed here.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=138&order=desc

http://www.williammaloney.com/LandRover/VolvoBushings/VolvoBushings.htm
parts
1pc 8in 1/2 -20 grade 8 bolt and nut
2 1/2in washers
2pcs NPSC ( national Pipe straight coupling) fully Threaded coupling 2 inches long
2 pcs 2 inch steel end caps
File the tops of caps flat then drill a 1/2 inch hole d through the center of each. You will need to remove the threads on one of the end caps so that it just slides into the 2 inch coupler. Not too tight not to loose. the other cap keeps the threads.
The other coupler you will cut in half. This is what will fit in between the "ears" so they don't collapse.
I hope i have right but you get the idea.