|
|
|
I will be replacing a 240 Drive Shaft Flex Joint and wondering if there is enough back and forth slack in the splined part of the driveshaft to do this?
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
So, after front flexible brake line replace, brake fluid flush, than a proper brake fluid bleed, under Kittys Red 1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon, featuring the Giubo (actually, a very, very, very, very late 1989):
Giubo appears not too bad. Though with the BRD and Made in W Germany.
Not as bad as what Dan replaced. Or the replaced giubo on 1991 kittys grey volvo 240.
Made in W Germany.
See the shiny new brake line from the proportioning brake check valve to the passenger side .... yep, rear main bearing seal, yet went one year and maybe on quart with maybe 4500-5500 miles.
Carrier bushing has shrinkage
What do we have missing here? Bastards! We loves to support the header pipe. Fixed with a spare dual-stud thingy from the factory that fits here I got from a 1992 240 wagon in Portland in 2006. Plug and play.
Fun-fun.
2012 Toyota please, with replaced air bag and crap.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
|
|
-
|
|
|
It looks pretty good, maybe just keep an eye on it for now. Or if you have any other DS problems in the near future do it in combination with them.
Dan
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
Junk yards near me are running out of 240's, only seen 3 in the last 18 months!
Dan
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
Kitty-
I recently bought a febi-bilstein guibo from fcp. It was listed as a BMW part, but fits the 240 series and the part numbers matched. I will have to research the part number for you.
|
|
-
|
|
|
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/driveshaft-flex-disc-guibo-bilstein-26111209168
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
Kitty -
The Bilstein guibo is holding up find a year and approximately 15k miles later. It seemed to be decent quality, if I recall correctly it was made in Germany. Failure within a year either spells Uro parts or incorrect installation with the rotating flanges driving into the narrow section of the guibo. Easy to do if one does not understand the shaft rotation or gets confused while working upside down under the car.
|
|
-
|
|
|
hi mr. blues- could you clarify a bit more about your warning? when i have to do this job on my 245 dont want a clusterf!@#k.the metal roller bearing presses ontothe driveshaft and sits in a rubber disk. the thick fabric flex coupler bolts onto the drive shaft i think. thanks tons oldduke
|
|
-
|
|
|
Just be sure you understand the direction of driveshaft rotation and install properly. Most (all?) guibos are marked to show the correct orientation of the flanges.
http://blog.bavauto.com/14113/bmw-how-to-properly-install-driveshaft-flex-disc-giubo/
|
|
-
|
|
|
The best way to do this is t take pictures front and back before removing the old part. There are also arrows marking the direction the bolts go through the piece.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
hi kitty g- your comments are always very erudite. wouldnt worry about earl grey tea. english aunts from the war used to sip that elixer in birkenhead near the river mersey.i preferred thunderbird or ripple. gave them a sipand was told it tasted like gasoline(petrol in the UK). on this guibo joint, havent replaced it yet in my 92 245, but it is one of the anticipated contingency plans. every time i do an oil dump , i get under the m47 and push and pull every which way the driveshaft and sofar see no movement in any direction other than to turn it in neutral. have replaced a few of these ujoints in american tanks when they were lose. always had a secret fear that if it broke at the end of theoutput shaft on the trans, the drive shaft would drop and pole vault the car into a rollover crash , worse if you were going 100mph.looks like the eventual job will involve r and r of that big soft rubber disk, the ujoint at both ends and the press on bearing in the center of the rubber disk on the shaft. am i missing anything. one of moes sage quotes was if it aint broke dont fix it. regards oldduke
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hiya Uncle Old Duke!!!!
Thank you. Erudite! Thank you!
Welp, with that giubo, guibo, flex coupler, flex disc (disk?), it does fail, in time. It forms cracks, like a strut mount, at the stress points around the securing hardware. Underneath is a woven fabric structure, maybe nylon (kevlar?) that ties the thing together.
Though if left unchanged, the flex xoupler, flex disk, giubo, guibo can fail spectacularly. Here is an example from the Kansas City craigslist ('cause I'm always looking at RWD Volvos everywhere for sale for fun):
1990 Volvo 240 DL 4 cylinder manual - $500 (Kansas City, MO)
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5864171864.html
"The was a running and driving car earlier this week, but the rubber piece that connects the drive shaft to the back of the transmission came apart and damaged the shift linkage. I owned this car less than 24 hours before this happened and drove it less than 15 miles. it ran and drove great when I bought it. The people I bought it from totally screwed me over on it and I'm taking a huge loss on this car. ..."
Note the missing shift lever. So, a high-mileage giubo can fail catastrophically causing damage.
Here is the advert of the person that sold it to the unfortunate person.
1990 Volvo 240DL - $900 (Waldo)
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5847438868.html
You can see the similarity by the rust spot at the front edge of the right fender.
From MO-state to KC-state.
You probably want to maintain good motor mounts to prolong a giubo flex coupler disk. Though by 150,000 - 175,000 miles, probably time to preventively replace the giubo it so it does not explode and take out the M47 shift linkage, or worse.
It is a wear item.
Thank to MrNabisco and Pageda for brining this up. I replaced it on one, and now the other two.
  
Now for something somewhat different ....
Erudite! Yep, I can be really rude some times, a total bombast. Really rude like the second and third Ska music movement
Sure happy it's a happy holiday sneezins', er, uh, seasons, you know, with the awful eggnog on the dairy section shelves and the flu shots four ways.
I've had some Thunderbird a long time ago and some MD 20/20. The vision was not so 20/20 after the MD 20/20. I remember the Ripple had some pop fizz to it. We would get Sprite or 7-up or even some Cola or Mountain Dew mixed with strong (usually) white wines. I could handle that. For some reason, the craft brews in St. Louis sort of leave me feeling awful the next day. The craft brew in WA-state was so, so, way better. Maybe better some booze at Spookykane 2400 feet versus the St. Loogey 300 feet above sea level.
We'd also mix Dr. Pepper with dark red wines while in the Marin County Headlands during moon light hikes. That was really good. Otherwise, I'd not liked (soda) pop at all except with maybe a anchovy stuffed pizza pie. (Quadruplicate anchovies!!!!!)
At higher elevations, with less dense (thinner) atmosphere, you feel the booze more quickly and differently. I could down two 64 ounce growlers of some good Spokane - Coeur d'Alene craft brew, and even the Total Wine store (even hard ciders!), during a Seahawks game and think nothing of it the next day.
Here, in Slum Louis, Misery, your next right-to-work state, I'll feel three pints the following day, to a headache, yet I feel nothing the evening with the three pints of ale.
Still planning a CO-front or inter-mountain range perch at a mile high, cause you can in CO-state, like you can in CA, MA, and maybe ME? The craft ales must be better at a mile high. Someplace super swell like Estes Park, CO, perhaps.
It's been black teas since like the late 1970s. I do like coffee for the nuttiness of it, occasionally. With sugar or honey and cream or milk, sometimes cocoa and vanilla. Coffee can take it. Like Irish whisky. Spicy John Powers with coffee and cream (maybe Irish Cream, too?) and brown sugar. Or more malty Jameson whiskey? Not a huge Bushmills or Tullamore fan here.
Here you go, for 10,000$ and three pedals!!!!
1980 Volvo 245 DL - $10000 (Richmond, MO)
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5868855161.html
Low brake fluid, failing strut mounts, motor mounts are possibly failing.
Yeah, needs 10,000$ worth of work. Like the rödbrun color, though, and the K-jet B21 and M46.
How are them rear hatch hinge wires?
  
Happy eggnog holidays!!!
Thank you,
Bruce.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
  
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yes Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYF4AVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Currently $55, I got this # from a recommendation on turbo bricks, supposedly better and beefier BMW part #. It is the same dimensions as the OEM Volvo part.
I used the same nuts and bolts.
Dan
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
I was a bit worried about that, but was delivered as described and pictured at an excellent price.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
You guys probably got this done already, but when I did mine I dropped the entire drive shaft as I also did a tranny mount and U joints. I used a cordless impact driver to remove most of the bolts, with a box end wrench on the opposite side to counter hold. I hardly ever reach for the air tools anymore. It was a pretty easy job as volvo 240 work goes.
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
Looks like you got it "just in time"
|
|
-
|
|
|
As Dave stated. Center Support bearing is locked onto the forward shaft. When I replaced mine, i had the Shaft out so not an issue. I'd probably put a floor jack under the Center Support Bearing, Pull the two bolts and lower it a bit. It wont take too much lowering before you can slide the old one down and out and the new one up and in. Gotta be easier then dropping the Trani Cross Member. Universal type Sockets help a lot when disconnecting the coupler. Not much room for a socket with a Universal attached.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Tony.
Can you easily get box end wrenches on the bolts and nuts?
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
If I remember correctly you could get a box wrench on one side(Bolt) but not on the other (Nut).
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
Does the other side require the universal socket or would a regular one work?
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
It's been a while but I remember thinking I was 'just going to throw on a new Coupler' and then fighting with it because the Wrenches just didn't have 'swing room' . One side could accept a wrench to hold it but I needed Long extensions and a swivel socket to get on the other side. You probably wanna crack them loose while the driveshaft is up and the car is in gear to keep the coupler from turning. Maybe slide under there and check out your clearances before you set out to do it. If you need different tools then you still have a running car to get them
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
Pageda and CB,
Art responded to Uncle oldduke's current thread of many questions, including the Giubo. Art's post included:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo
Thanks to Uncle Art!
You can spin the M47 output flange with the gear selector in neutral.
Yet not the front flange on the front the front drive shaft with the rear wheels on the earth.
May help to lift the rear wheels off the ground. So you can spin both the transmission output flange and the drive shaft so retaining hardware access is easier during disassembly and reassembly.
Just do so safely with a quality lifting tool like a trolley jack and quality axle stands or chassis braces to do so. More of a work out and an adventure.
I was able to replace the Giubo without lifting the rear end. Then again, I'm not sure as each repair session includes multiple repairs.
In high school, I was repeatedly criticized by the peer students that I spent time repairing my 1975 Volvo 244 DL sedan than actually driving it. In reflection, their observation may have been. No Giubo behind that M40 behind the B20 F with the beloved K-Jetronic.
I so miss that 1975 244 DL. The real deal metric B20. Oh what you could do with that motor, if even mildly.
Hope that helps.
Everyone Needs an Uncle, MacDuff.
--
Love your Volvo brick and your www.brickboard.com!
|
|
-
|
|
|
I have a hard enough time with spell check but it won't touch this word! I think I will just call it a flex joint from now on!
I want to do this job without removing the exhaust system and the trans cross member. After spending a while on my back studying and trying various tools I think I can do it by just lowering the center driveshaft support and placing it on a jack stand.
I may need to let the rear wheels hang but at a minimum I need to be able rotate the shaft to loosen all the bolts.
The big problem is access to the front facing nuts and bolts with the trans cross member attached, I think I can use a large breaker bar and socket and rotate the shaft to get to each nut or bolt. On the rear facing nuts and bolts almost anything will work.
We will see!!!
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
I haven't changed one of these flex joints--at least not on a Volvo--but the back end of the front shaft is fixed by the center support. If the screws securing it are removed I'm sure there's enough clearance at the splines to move the front shaft back a bit. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Dan (Pageda),
I replaced the coupler on mt 1991 240 in the last few years. Replaced with OEM. (Though using the beefier BMW drop is excellent! For my 1992, soon.)
I did not need to lower the drive shaft, or disengage the center support bearing housing from the body.
Support the transmission body with a bottle nosed hydraulic jack and a short axle stand. Disconnect the transmission mount from the transmission support (flange) at the rear of the M47 II transmission. (Perhaps may have removed the transmission mount to transmission support member retaining nut, perhaps? Leaving the mount hanging on the transmission rear support flange? I forget right now. Can't find the images I recorded.)
Removed the four transmission cross-member to unibody rail retaining flange bolts. And removed the support member from the work space. (A little to and fro articulation to maneuvering of the freed transmission support member from the exhaust header pipe - catalytic converter.) I may have slid the transmission support member rearward along the exhaust piping and support the car right (free) side of the support member with wood blocks.
Mark alignment of the transmission output flange to the drive shaft flange.
Remove the three sets of front drive shaft flange to rubber flex coupler hardware. Be aware that the drive shaft section may come free. After retaining hardware removal, I was able to gently push rearward of the front drive shaft section to free it. There is a center alignment hub that is at the center of the drive shaft front and is proud of the flange that centers on the center hole of the flex coupler. Set the hardware aside. Remember install orientation. Do not mix this drive shaft to flex coupler retaining hardware with the three sets of transmission to flex coupler retaining hardware.
The drive shaft section remains sort of in the way as you cannot move it out of the way. Yet I supported the freed front drive shaft section with another axle stand.
Rotate the old flex coupler to remove the ... okay, you got it. I'm sure. Sorry to go on so.
Hope that helps.
Questions?
Duffed.
--
Love your Volvo brick and your www.brickboard.com!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Kitcat, I may give it a try tomorrow. More complicated than I first thought but probably not bad, My first and probably only flex joint
So there are 2 lengths for each set of 3 bolts that attack the flex joint? Trans side uses longer bolts?
I will put all the molded on markings of the joint forward as the original.
Not sure I understand the clocking of the joint? It seems like there are 3 ways to do this and I can't see where on is better than the other? I guess the best way to do this is to mark the old flex joint along with both flanges and transfer the mark on the old joint to the new one.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Uncle Dan Volvo Racer Pageda!!!!
Thank you for bringing this oh-so very critical Volvo 240 and driveline part up for 240 with M47. I'd read about how BMW uses these in their RWD models and that they are beefier, or uprated for driveline torque over after market.
I'm unsure, now. I doughnut recall, well. The bolts (fastening hardware sets) with the hex heads pointing to the Volvo 240 front appeared different, somehow, then the bolts that point rearward.
I marked the shafts with a black or blue permanent (indelible) marker line to preserve original alignment, if just for the heck of it. Also, preserved alignment of the two-hole thick-thin section of the Giubo, also. Some well beloved folks at Torslanda assembled this on the Kittys Grey Volvo 240, so, if anything, preserving the alignment of their original install.
I had redundant socket sets and spanners so I could remove and replace hardware easiest. I forget the bolt hex and hex nut size. Maybe somee wheres 16-19 mm?
So critical! I saw mine on my kittys grey 1991 Volvo 240 sedan while replacing motor mounts. Got the OEM, and there you go. I have images of the removed giubo flex coupler with the blue Volvo logo bag Tasca sent me out in evil town USA. (Some call it Spokane, WA.)
I'll bet there's a whole host of 240 folks on the brickboard with the factory install.
The old Giubo renoved from my Kittys Grey 1991 240 sedan. (Marked Side)
The old Giubo renoved from my Kittys Grey 1991 240 sedan. (Un-marked Side)
The Volvo blue label bag with the new Giubo now in my 1991 Kittys Grey 1991 Volvo 240.
I guess I have two more of these two install. I'll use your BMW part number.
Maybe get the entire BMW 2002? Wanted one of those a long time ago to travel the back roads of west Marin County CA or Whatcom County WA.
Also, for serious Volvo 240 porn, check out:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Volvo240Club/
I mean, it's that serious. I can't stop looking at it. I have a problem.
Dan, thank you!
Kitcat.
--
Love your Volvo brick and your www.brickboard.com!
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Thu Mar 24 21:45 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
|
|
"Maybe get the entire BMW 2002? Wanted one of those a long time ago to travel the back roads of west Marin County CA or Whatcom County WA."
hey there are PAlenty of those 2002s out there...Like this one. a 74, but not really, those bumpers....is it really real.
awe WTFcares. there a Dude out there who'll pay 50 grand for a car that never really existed all parts in the same year (in real time)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pebLIQHjuZE
Cool
|
|
-
|
|
|
Kit
The markings are identical to the one on my 93, but mine is in worse condition. Need to get it replaced!!
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
I'll add that if the rear axle is left to hang (support the body at the jacking points) the splined shaft of the rear section will pull back a bit (the reason for having the splines in the first place) giving more slack for the front section. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
You are right Dave!
I would like to hear anyone else experiences if you have done this.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
|
|
|
