I picked up a '74 164E that has been sitting for about a dozen years.
After going through the fuel system draining the tank and lines...I then replaced every f.i. hose and injector seals in the engine compartment and then fuel lines around the fuel filter area.
After trying to start the car I noticed the electric fuel pump which I believe is a Bosch is leaking a bit from the backside of the pump. The car runs in this situation but of course is a fire hazard. Question is: Has anyone replaced a gasket for this Bosch pump instead of replacing parts? I hoping I can make my own gasket. If replacing the whole pump is viable , what brand is recommended on this car?

I suppose back side and front side are open to interpretation. I think of the back as being where the discharge port is and the front as being where the suction port and pump rotor is located. I assume that the leak is coming from the 'front side' (my interpretation) of the pump. My old Bosch pump (almost 40 years old) was pumping just fine; but, developed a leak around the terminal plug (front side). I have heard about the epoxy repair; but, I passed on that solution since it is a bit of a bodge job involving plastering epoxy around the base of the connector and crossing your fingers. Maybe; but, not for me. As noted, the pump rotor is sealed with a circumferential O ring trapped in a groove. I would be surprised if this is leaking; but, I guess it could have dried up and shrunk or cracked. If you can find a new larger diameter O ring of the same thickness (or slightly thicker), cut it to length to fit in the groove. There is a Loctite adhesive that is excellent on rubber and can be used to glue the cut ends of the new O ring together. The number of the adhesive escapes me at present; but, I am sure I will wake up in the middle of the night with the number in my head. If you search for 'most expensive Loctite adhesive in the world' you will probably find it. It is something like $25 for a 10 or 15 ml bottle.

If you can't find a suitable candidate for the O ring transplant, you could try sealing the pump head with the old O ring and Hylomar blue sealant. Excellent stuff. Genuine Hylomar is pricey; but, no where near as pricey as the special Loctite stuff. Permatex makes their own version of Hylomar. I think that they used to be licensed to call it Hylomar; but, no longer. They refer to it as being Hylomar similar, or Hylomar like, or .... It is also blue and pricey; but, not as pricey as the genuine Hylomar. Hylomar and the Permatex copy are not super common so you may have to search a bit to find them. Aircraft mechanics seem to have a particular love for the stuff.

|In case you get frustrated trying to do a repair on the Bosch pump, my Nissan replacement pump has being going along just fine for nearly a year now with no drama. The Airtex pump that I initially got to replace the Bosch probably had less than 60 days of actual operation before it started making bad noises.

In case you can't fix your current fuel pump, here's some options for you to consider.

The following is quoted from a thread on Swedespeed and was posted by someone with a user name of 142 Guy who certainly seems to 'know his stuff' - "After some misery with poor performing aftermarket generics, I stumbled across the pump used in the 1979 - 1980 Nissan 280 ZX. the part # is 17011-P7211. They are, with the exception of the electrical terminals, a dead ringer / drop in replacement for the Bosch 2 port pump used on the D jet. I picked up the OEM Nissan pump for around $250 US on Ebay from a company called Quirk.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1979-1983-Nis...ZVmwjZ&vxp=mtr

The pump is only about 4 months old; but, is working well. Beware the Airtex , Delphi ..... generic retrofits. From personal experience I am very unhappy with their performance."

Also, in case you find that your leak is actually from where the electrical connection is, which I've read about a couple of time, I believe this can be fixed by epoxying around the connector.

There's also a guy on Turbobricks with a user name of Redwood Chair who may still have a known working used one. This guy's a great resource in general and may have the best price if you end up needing/wanting a used one.

There's also this outfit who rebuilds these - http://www.fuelinjectioncorp.com/contact.php, though, honestly, before spending what that would cost you should consider this first -

http://www.hiperformanceautoservice.com/ They have NOS original Bosch fuel pumps, though they ain't cheap (around $450). These guys are an unbelievable resource for your car. Incredibly helpful. Eric once helped me troubleshoot a problem I was having with the fuel pump in my '72 164E over the phone. 15 minutes later, my stuck check valve was unstuck! Most other places would have just been trying to get me to purchase one of the aforementioned fuel pumps!

Good luck. Hopefully, you'll let us know how this turns out for you.

I wound up going with the Nissan pump and it works beautifully! Mounted easily and no noise! Was very happy with the installation.

Thanks for the recommendation, yes I do have a used known good late D-jet fuel pump for sale.
--
71-145-S ; 82 245GLT ; 72-1800-ES

Yukon,

I'm not familiar with the Quirkparts pump, but I haven't heard anything good from anyone on any of the aftermarket ones. I hope this one works out well for you, but, honestly, I think it'd probably be safer to return it (if you can) and buy the used Bosch one from Redwood Chair.

Stan

Just purchased the Quirkparts pump for my 74'-164, hopefully it performs well. I am tired of the very loud airtex pump in the car now, it's miserable. Car had that pump when i bought it and i hate it, need to rig a bracket for this new pump.

In case you think you might want to pick up a green book (Volvo service manual), which is highly recommended, for your car, I just came upon this on Turbobricks - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=318643

On the mating surface, between the pump housing and the cover, there is a pear shaped recessed groove. There is a similarly shaped rubber seal which sits in the groove and forms a seal with the flat mating surface when the two are screwed together.

It is not a flat gasket you can cut out of a sheet. You could try to inject a bead of sealant in the groove and let it set up before mating the two parts. If there is a sealant that is stable in the presence of fuel.

I only found gasket repair kits for mechanical fuel injection on the Bosch Tradition website but you might try there.

That's the way it is on my 73 1800 (rubber o-ring type). It has the pump on which the inlet and outlet are on opposite ends of the pump. I think some of them have inlet/outlet on the same end but I've never seen one in real life.

You might try opening it up and cleaning up the groove, etc. Careful, there are about 5 or 6 little roller kind of vanes inside that are loose. If possible, maybe you can roll the seal a bit when you press it back into the groove, hoping to encourage a better seal. Make sure it's good and snug when you screw t back together.

The Bosch pump is not cheap so I can understand wanting to repair it. I don't see a gasket kit on-line but I am going to look some more.

It has been a while since I had my pump disassembled but I have it in my shed. I don't remember if there even was a gasket but I assume yes. Let me check when I get home and let you know. Are you sure it is leaking from the 'gasket' and not a cracked housing?

Also, anyone have good luck with aftermarket universal pumps?

i can only answer to the am pumps-they ought to be illegal. they don't last and rarely perform-even when new-like the oe bosch pumps. replaced many for running problems as opposed to just quitting and died. good luck, chuck.