To answer your questions:

Any tips or techniques on how to do this easily?
Yes, see below. Its not easy. Expect about 2 to 3 hours of your time, more if its your first time. Expect some back and joint aches later. Work outside with lots of ventilation.

Is dropping the tank easier?
Can't comment. Haven't tried that.

If I leave the tank in, should I drain the tank?
See tips below.

Any things I should look for on the replacement unit?
Get one designed for 900 series. The sending unit is spring loaded because the 900 series uses larger fuel tank. If I remember correctly a non-spring loaded unit is for the 700 series. Look for cracks at all fuel hose attachment ports from over-tightening of clamps. You could clamp your hoses a bit further-in or find another replacement. Look for cracked old solder joints. Sometimes the wires are just left a few strands attached. You could re-solder this.

The unit I have has a fuel pump on a metal clip, not attached directly to the plastic unit. Does this actually go into the tank?
Yes. All go in.


Any helpful tips?

1. Drive the car till the low fuel light comes on. Don't underestimate the effect of fuel fumes. Being a robust person I am I still got nausea and headache doing this job!
2. You could start the fuel tank lock ring turning by using a hammer & a block of wood. A flat blade screwdriver works just fine but may chip away some plastic from your lock ring. Do this slowly of course : )
3. Re-solder the sender wires on top of unit
4. Re-solder the fuel pump connectors. They're crimped and wrapped with heat shrink sleeving. New heat sleeving could be obtained from electronic stores
5. Replace the in-tank fuel pump filter sock
6. When uninstalling the old sending unit (after removing the lock ring) turn it counterclockwise then slowly take it out.
7. Use string/wire to "pull-up" the sending tube (extended by spring) to ease installation.
8. When installing insert the unit with the tube at about 4 o'clock position then turn it clockwise (to 6 o'clock pos) to place it in the tank's fuel baffle. Release the string/wire. Install lock ring and fuel pipes.



Re-solder sending unit wires..


Re-solder fuel pump connectors..


Replace filter sock


Re-install using string/wire to "pull-up" sending tube


Regards,
Amarin.

Dear MrNabisco,


Hope you're well. I've done this on '95 945. I'd like to amplify some of Steve's sage comments.

(1) Repeatedly soak hose clamps with PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil) to ease removal.

(2) besure to remove completely from the work area, the heavy-duty rubber hose, that connecting the steel fuel filler pipe to the top of the send unit. You will not be able to re-install the send unit, with that rubber pipe in place. There is not enough room to "push it aside". It must be completely removed.

(3) The 90° fuel hose connector has an outer "collar" that moves. You have pull "up" on the collar, while pushing the entire connector "down" (towards the top of the send unit. These "contradictory" movements usually release the connector from the send unit's steel nipple. Grip the collar between your index finger and middle finger, using the center part of each finger (on either side of the collar). Then, put your thumb on top of the plastic arm, to which the fuel hose connects. As you gently squeeze the collar and pull it upwards, use your thumb to push down on the connector's arm, the connector should come free. If it doesn't, try to get some PB Blaster into the center part of the connector, where it will weaken any corrosion, that keeps the connector from releasing.

(4) When reinstalling the send unti, keep in mind that the bottom of the barrel must point straight towards the fuel tank's floor, i.e., towards the ground. There - "path" - the space inside the tank through which the send unit's barrel must be moved, is narrow. It may take a few tries before the send unit seats properly.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

No need to drop the tank or drain it since the replacement is done entirely through the top hatch in the trunk. It would help to run the car so that fuel is below 50% though. And for goodness sake, don't smoke or cause sparks. Now is your time to treat the top of the new unit with POR-15 rust preventive. Make sure you review the FAQ instructions on removing the various hoses and fittings as well as installing new hose clamps since the old ones will certainly be rusted solid. If you have a tough time removing an old clamp, try cutting it with aviation snips or gently slicing it with a hacksaw blade, being careful not to create sparks. The fuel output is a quick disconnect that requires squeezing between thumb and forefingers while pulling. Installation involves some twisting of the unit while the pickup is compressed using a string so you can maneuver it into place.