Hi. Since this is fairly new to me so I wanted ask about this, the “coil over” shocks. I will probably be replacing the rear shocks in our ‘89 245 wagon soon. Right now are some "standard" KYB’s which seemed ok for the past years., nothing special about them, but they are in fact getting weak.. Oh also I installed some of IPDs heavy-duty anti-sway bars (front and back) a while back.

As far as the “coil-overs‘, is it just another gimmick" or can one get some good use from them, like are they “stronger“, meaning do they handle the roads and loads better than "regular shocks” and “hold up” longer?? I haven’t checked prices yet and that could also be a deterrent in getting them. Thanks.

FWIW, I ran the IPD lowering coils on a 240 wagon with the Bilstein HD's. Thought it rode very well, responded to steering input much improved. I really saw little degradation in ride quality (my opinion of course, but wife never noticed or complained). I did not run rubber bands for tires though, ran some decent 14 or 15 inchers, cant recall exactly. Just a couple more things to think about. Mike

Pity you're not in the UK although I'm never sure if wagon and saloon rears are the same.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=246361

Hi Anthony,

You can get HD (heavy duty), or overload, or like rated springs at a normal ride height from the usual Volvo 240 parts outlets. They merely swap out and in to replace you rear shocks. Search on Google. Moog, Scantech, and a few other make these. Fixed and progressive coil. A heavy rear spring tends to raise over steer.

What size iPd stabilizer bars? 25 front and what rear? If 25/25 on normal ride height springs, take care with over steer. 25 front / 23-22 rear may be more balanced like stock without excessive lean on casual and harder turns.

How are your front strut cartridge dampeners (shocks). Do they dampen movement okay on spring compression and rebound?

If you want solid and and about as stiff or stiffer, yet beefier, then the GR-2 rear KYB shocks, the Boge by Sachs as Sachs Advantage (what may be branded Boge Turbo Gas - we can't buy made in Germany Boge in North America easily.) They will last longer than KYBs, yet cost as much as the Bilstein Touring. Sachs Touring (Boge Automatics) are software.

If you want crisp ... Bilstein Touring.

Crispiest, yet smooth, maybe Bilstein HD. Though some have complained they do not seem to dampen a mightily as the from Bilstein HDs. Though, beware, Bilsetin HDs may not fit your front strut cartridge housings as the strut tube is slightly smaller diameter, possibly shorter, and may have a pressed in spacer at the bottom of the tube. (My 1990 240 DL wagon won't except Bilstein HDs.)

You want matched front to rear shocks by make and brand. Unless modding and you know what you're doing so as to keep over- and under-steer balanced, or at least predictable.

Finally, Koni is the most expensive. Two versions may still be available for 240. And are adjustable on compression (?) or rebound (?).

Hope that helps.

Duffed.
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Something, something, something, something ....

Hello Anthony,

MacDuff (aka KGV) nailed it. Consider what he said. He knows his 240 shocks and suspensions...:)

If money were no object I would go with Koni's. They are adjustable and will outlast your car.

FWIW - I have the Sachs Advantage on my 850 and they feel like OEM. Boge was OEM on 240's and 850's and probably many other Volvos. They are a nice compromise, firm but comfortable ride and sporty handling.

J

Hi jwalker.,

Thank you very and most kindly. You are most gracious with your praise, Sir. Tries to help as one can with the quagmire that is the un-new Volvo.

Yeah, exhaust and undercarriage and brakes and steerage. All the grimy dirty karp under rear wheel drive Volvo. Dry garage floor helps.

Hi anthony2,

yeah, I was sort of harsh on the Boge by Sachs as Sachs Advantage originally on my 1990 (built in 1989) 245 DL. Supposedly gas-charged, they were not wrapped in a nylon or like strap to keep them compressed in the box. They did not expand relentlessly like KYB Gas-A-Just or Bilstein HD or Touring.

And yet, on the front end of the 1990 lil red wagon, some four-five years later, and maybe 12,000 miles, with coolant leaks today I need to mend, the weighty 1990 245 front end, with all new front suspension bushes (including them Volvo 240 OEM strut mounts Volvo PN 1272455 -- does not ever futz with the after market strut mounts on Volvo!!!!), remains solid, and outlasted all times I put KYB on my 240 (save for the 1979 242, which had orange Koni in front, crank to max, and KYB, installed in Portland in 1988, got at iPd, Gas-A-Just rear. Lasted until I drove my poor sweet little 1979 242 GT to Taylor's Junkyard on the Rock Road in the middle of middle west in the 'Lou in 2001 or 2002. Rust got it. Still misses 242 GT.)

Just keep them Volvo-factory installed Boge front strut insert dampener gland nuts for the replacement Boge by Sachs insert. A complaint on other import auto sibling boards for bad brand new gland nuts. Hopes Boge, by Sachs, has corrected the glad nuts design and machining. (I let them know some years ago.)

Yet while you consider and ponder rear shocks, may I suggest, if not already, a review of:
- Front and rear suspension bushes including strut mounts. (Factory strut mounts in 1990, 1991, and 1992 240s were well domes, with concentric fractures or bush material separation from the center bearing and outer shell. Lower bushes may be Boge or Volvo OEM. Don't scrimp on strut mounts.)
- Flexi brake lines front and rear at some point. Fluid flush. Though I see you'd finished a brake job.
- All steering tie rods and the ball joints. Inner steer rod bellows. Rack lubeircation. Rack retainer U-bolts retaining nuts. (They can loosen.)
- Front hub seal and tension. Repack grease front and rear hubs.
- Inspect the exhaust unions and hangers. Mend as you need to.
- Rust

I see your post:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1587722&show_all=1

Installed adjustable KYBs rear in 2014? They failed in two years? Analogue to what I've read.

You say the adjustable rear KYBs you installed are now failing? So, I'll guess you've cranked them up to max, then? So, the Boge by Sachs Advantage (Some may title as Boge Turbo Gas, not the same) or softer Sachs Touring (I guess Boge Automatics, yet without the clicking they do anymore.) Both are gas low-pressured. Softer than the Bilstein anything model? Yet beefy like the made in Germany Boge of factory installed Volvo auld.

Boge Automatics and early Sachs by Boge used to have a valve that would click with slight movement like on speed bump. Don't do that anymore.

Gabriel and Monroe you get at the Midas are not the same as that in Europa. Avoid or you'll replace them soon.

The Sachs by Boge, either Advantage or Touring, should be okay with the stiffer spring rate of the rear overload or HD springs.

Like a triage, worst thing needs care first thing.

Also, motor mounts and transmission mount. (I'd not read all your post history, so dunno if you'd cared for these things already.)

(Keeps the bombasms in a well-taped box 49 miles distant while hanging out down by the brickboard.com here.)

Hope that helps.

Questions?

Thursday all Rainy Day Duffed. Lemony, lemon, lemon earl grey tea. Sweetened with poetics.
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Something, something, something, something ....

Actual "coil overs" are primarily for racing application. They allow easy changes in springs to suit race track conditions and easy adjustment of ride height (mechanically with a threaded collar). You'd be throwing your money away if you followed through. If your KYBs are silver in color they are decent enough replacement shocks. Their "gas-a-just" line (white in color) are good performance oriented shocks and long lasting. For the ultimate - yellow/blue Bilsteins are very good. -- Dave

Coil-overs benefit you not at all unless you want the ability swap around spring rates and lengths or performance shocks are not available for your car. Not a gimmick but unless you are lowering or tuning the car for racing, no benefit.