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i bought a made-in-sweden '85 windshield in good condition from the junkyard years ago. my 92 windshield is cracking and probably will get worse during the summer.
can i drop in the 85 shield? i'm sure the repair shop has aftermarket seals for the edge. he had it for my rear wagon window when it was replaced.
thanks,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
94 940
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i used a flat, safety razor scraper to get most of the butyl off, and used acetone to remove the rest.
acetone appears to be a good choice because it evaporates quickly, removes butyl pretty easily, and minimal amount of voa (aromatics).
the windshield was off of a 1985 wagon with a 1994 inspection sticker on it. the windshield is in great condition and a volvo windshield made in sweden.
thanks for all the replies.
regards,
byron
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Made in Sweden 240 windshield for Volvo 240?
Curious as to brand. Sunex, Trempex, or ??? Seckurit-Saint Gobain was the later 80s onward. You may have a made in Europe Pilkington (when these were good, heavy, thick, and a hard, clear glass, versus the soft, thin, optically crappy made in Chinese junk auto glass we have today on new and for used autos).
It is a windshield without any plastic border? Just a piece of glass?
Yes, it will fit into the windshield pan / pinch weld of your 1992 240 Wagon.
If the cracked windshield on your 1992 240 (245) Wagon is original, the auto glass tech must remove the factory butyl rubber utterly. The standard is to use the more permanent urethane adhesive sealant as a windshield gasket.
Next, you must remedy any rust on the pan and around the pinch weld. Many unibody panels meet and are sealed and spot welded here. Seal up with a durable if not matching paint, like a quality urethane. Let cure. Observe the drain holes at either end of the lower horizontal pinch weld. Also, with butyl tape, you must use hard spacers along the lower edge of the windshield so it does not slip downward over time. (Modern use of urethane negates the need, so finding these spacers may be harder then fabricating your own, or invent using a material up to the task with outdoor exposure in mind. Call around at the aurto glass stores. Find some from other junkyard autos.)
If you mean to install the windshield yourself, you can use butyl tape meant for auto glass. The Volvo dealership still sold this as Volvo OEM in two diameters when last I replaced a the windshield (with a crappy piece of made in Chinese junk Pilkington, with plastic border, and it still ain't right) on my 1992 in 2008 or so. (The glass sucks optically. Is thin and soft. The laminate between the glass panes is a little milky.)
If the auto glass store, they'll provide a synthetic rubber or silicon reveal with a 'T' shape profile for the flush mount look. They sink the reveal into the urethane for a tight fit and finish that we hope lasts.
Excellent for the find! I'd found a made in Europa Pilkington, a heavy, thick, hard, clear glass beast on a 240 in fascist WA-state before I left, on a late 80s 240. Optically pure, like the Sunex and Trempex on older Volvos. The Nordics and Germans know their optics as good as anyone.
Good luck.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Stupid crappy multimeter boyeee. Time for a Fluke multimeter? Needs to help Dr. Porter.
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Don't blame me! I voted for Bill and Opus!
nihilism.
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hi and thanks for the reply. it's reads Volvo Scanex GB with the DOT number and has Sweden at the bottom. looking up the dot number (dot 41 m 120 as1), it appears to be a pilkington from landskrona, sweden
I had it for about 12-13 years. i never noticed that it was from sweden, but yep, glad i kept it.
it still has the clips along with the butyl on the edges. the 92 has the original windshield so the shop will have to remove it.
The windshield i had installed in my 940 was a volvo windshield is not made in sweden, but not in china, either.
i'll never buy a windshield made in china.
what's the best way to clean the butyl off, paint thinner and a scraper?
regards,
byron
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Hi byron,
"what's the best way to clean the butyl off, paint thinner and a scraper?"
I used WD-40. It works great. Good luck.
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hi swede (name isn't posted),
thanks for the suggestion; i'll try that or the thinner. i was thinking of using just a glass scraper with a safety razor, but you have some serious tools there for the job.
regardless, looks like a messy job...it's sticky stuff.
regards,
byron
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Hi bcg,
What you have their is quality. Congrats! Trempex, Sunex, and Scanex. I forgot the Scanex brand. All made in Sweden or nearby. Wish I was made and remained in Sweden, Finland, Norway ....
Nice to have a place to store it too for such a time. I'll guess you have a garage. Your Volvo 240 is well kept indoors and out of the weather when not motoring about, getting groceries or additional quality junkyard windshields.
See if an auto glass shop will install your used windscreen for you, should you mean to use their urethane adhesive gasket method.
Remove the clips first. You can try to save them as you scrap away the butyl rubber tape. Yet age and their prior use and time in the UV-loaded sunlight weakens the plastic material. You may get lucky. Though you may not use them should you want 1991+ Volvo 240 flush mount style.
Also, see if the auto glass store is up to removing all of the old butyl rubber from the windshield pinch weld pan. This task is a considerable chore. More so if you have breaks in the paint or any rust. You must fully treat the rust and provide a quality durable, if not color-matching surface to which the new windshield gasket adheres.
They must wholly remove the butyl rubber. Many, on this and other auto boards, report sloppy, crappy work like at Autolite and such. Slapping on the urethane over what remains of the butyl rubber gasket. It does not work so well, leading to leaks or mal-aligned windshield.
An auto glass shop may not be set up to treat rust. Or they'll charge you for it.
The auto glass technician removes the interior windshield reveal trim. The auto glass shop now normally uses a hot knife to cut the now ubiquitous urethane gasket material and levers or shims (prevents re-adhesion). Hot knife does not work so well with the factory Volvo 240 butyl rubber tape gasket after 31 years (unsure of your windshield is original). In the good old dayze, a cutting wire was used by the auto glass technician. Start with poking a hole in the gasket, and working the cutting wire back and forth without making any sheet metal contact (as you remove paint finish). Insert levers or shim to prevent re adhesion.
An auto glass technician will use handles with suction cups, evacuated against the glass exterior, to lift the old windshield away.
To clean the old butyl tape gasket from the glass, use a mechanical method to scrap away as much as you can. An even (not serrated) knife blade or safety razor. Use at an angle so as is a safe use yet try not to scratch the glass (if you can). You can either use a solvent, like brake parts cleaner (a lot of spray cans of that), or an emulsifying engine cleaner like Gunk engine bright to emulsify away the butyl rubber (cheaper, few fumes, wait some time like hours or days, and use those scubby-duppy nylon scouring pads or the like [steel wool makes a mess], or those stainless steel springy-like scouring pads). There may exist a whole host of products you can use to clean away the bulk of the butyl rubber from the windshield that I dunno about. At the end, however, you want a residue-free surface, so brake parts cleaner and clean cloth. The residue free surface is best for adhesion to the new gasket.
Again, congrats on the quality Volvo 240 windshield. I'm suffering a made in Chinese junk Pilkington on my 1992. It os such crap glass and included a plastic surround with a channel to snap in the reveal to cover the (pan) gap between glass edge and sheet metal. The surround kept coming off. The plastic surround moved as it expects a butyl rubber gasket. In spit of the windshield replacement I've done, I did not get this one installed evenly (concentrically) in the pan (closer to one side). I had to use butyl rubber as the prior owner or whom ever replaced the windshield before me, damaged the paint, and it rusted through the pinch weld with rusted holes into the North American marker drive side a pillar and into the cowl (below the vents) in front of the bulk head firewall. The stupid methy people at the Spokane Valley NAPA auto parts store told me to use enamel clear coat over the color-matched urethane paint, so I have a mess on the front of my green 1992 around the crappy, cheap, optically sucky made in Chinese junk Pilkington windshield.
Anyhoo, sorry to go on so long.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Monday MacDuffed.
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Something, something, something, something ....
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