Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

I'm getting close to reassembling my rebuilt M41, so I want to get the switch and wiring into the car. I've installed the turn signal-style switch from the donor car (had to ground it with a wire, as the bracket didn't exactly fit the ignition cylinder). I have one wire going to the fuse box with an 8 amp fuse, and the other wire has been left long, and will go to the switch on the top of the M41. I have no plans for relays, as the OEM switch is on/off.

My question is what would a suitable 12v source be. I assume I want switched 12v, not constant? Can I just splice into one of the switched 12v wires going into the bottom of the fuse box? Or do I need to run a new, dedicated wire from the battery?








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    Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

    as another poster mentioned you will need a relay if using the stalk switch (YOU WILL MELT THE SWITCH IF YOU CONNECT IT TO + AT THE OTHER END AND USE IT). look carefully at the FB and you will see which wires are fused and which are suplply.
    --
    Patrick, '68 220 , '53 GMC 4104, '97 VW Transporter.








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    Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

    I don't have a wiring diagram for 1968 handy. But for 1970, they show a Blu/Yel wire coming off of fuse #3 and running up to the switch. From the switch there are two Yel wires - one runs to the transmission (4th gear limiter) and the other Yel runs to the indicator light.

    http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Volvo-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1970-1989-Repair-Guide/WIRING-DIAGRAMS/WIRING-DIAGRAMS/_/P-0900c152800642d2

    BTW, in that diagram they show two "Overdrive Switches". The second on is actually the 4th gear limiter on top of the transmission. From the limiter switch it's a red wire to the solenoid.
    --
    Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)








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      Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

      The original poster had me confused with a reference to grounding the steering column switch--not a factor if not using a relay. The setup I've used on my '69 144S came from a '68 145 parts car and I had first adapted it to a '68 144S using the M41 D type that came out of the '68 145. That system used a 3 prong relay with the column switch providing ground for the relay. After running the D type for as number of years I switched to a J type and then eventually switched the trans to the current '69. In the 1967-68 system power to the relay is provided by fuse #5. Fuses 1-5 are on a bus (if that's the right term) connected to terminal #15 on the ignition switch. On the 1969 fuses 1-4 are "bused" and connected to terminal #15 at the ignition switch with a short jump wire to fuse #5 (where the OD switch gets power). In an original 1969 there is no relay for the OD. I used the 67-68 system with the relay. This is all taken from a Clymer repair manual.
      According to my wire diagrams for 1970 power goes to the OD switch from terminal #4--but that one is bused to #3 which gets power from terminal #15 at the ignition switch. Is that all clear? :-)
      SO--on your '68 you should be able to connect to any fuse from 1-5 which are all powered from the ignition switch terminal #15. -- happy shifting -- Dave








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        Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

        Got it. Thanks for the help, guys.

        I ended up taking switched 12v from the top of fuse #7, witch is a switched source with an 8 amp fuse. With a multimeter at the end of the wire that will eventually plug onto the 4th gear switch, I get voltage when the key is on and the switch is activated. Good sign.










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          Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

          Probably not the best choice. My recollection is that fuses #6 and #7 are energized in the accessory and run position of the ignition switch. Fuses #3 and #4 are energized only in the run position of the ignition switch. Volvo uses fuse position #4 to supply the OD in later model 140s. Its not a disaster since you have a 4th gear interlock and its not like the OD solenoid could get energized while the car is parked and you are sitting listening to the radio (unless you park it in fourth gear with the OD column switch on).

          It has been a while since I poked around the fuse box on my 142; however, my recollection is that the top side of the fuse panel is the load side (protected by the fuse) and as such is the correct side to come off with a protected supply








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            Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

            Interesting. I pulled the 12v from the top of the fuse box, as the hot wires come in from the bottom. That being said, there are a few bussed connections at the top of the fuse I used, so I will pull the fuse to make sure that location is fused. This weekend I'll probably re-wire it to the stock fuse (the one labeled OD on the fuse box cover) just so I know everything is as it should be.

            Thanks for the advice, everyone.








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          Power source for OD switch (68 142) 140-160

          "...I ended up taking switched 12v from the top of fuse #7..."

          A good test at this point would be to pull out fuse #7 and make sure it interrupts the current to the OD switch. If you inadvertently took power off of the wrong side of the fuse block, you would then be running un-fused power to the switch and then down to the transmission, creating a few opportunities for a bad short, severly damaged wiring, and/or fire. Not to freak you out, just being cautious.

          If you pulled power from the side of the fuse block that has several fuses bussed together, I can almost guarantee you ended up with an un-fused circuit.
          --
          Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)







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