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1979 242 DL, B21 K-jet, automatic. Prior to my fiddling, the car ran pretty well. Now I have no spark.
In my haste to test spark, I accidentally closed one of the dist. cap latches within the cap, cranked it over, and did this to my impulse sensor plate:
When I test the sensor, I get 1.2M-ohm, which is -just- 4 orders of magnitude higher than the 950-1250 ohm specification... I examined the wiring to the impulse sensor and it was ok.
My question now turns to "has anyone successfully repaired the impulse sensor?" I'm hoping I can bend/solder etc. and get this existing one to work, but I'm going to call fcp and ask if their reman distributor ($133) has a new impulse sensor installed.
For completeness, my dist ends in "039" which does not appear to be a 'normal' distributor for this car...
What would you do (aside from not causing damage in the first place...)
Thanks!!!!
Mike
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Tue Mar 1 17:14 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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DownLOAD that BOOK that I linked you to in your AUX Air VAlve Post
The replacement is easy straight forward and COVERED in the Advanced TroubleShooting Manual
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I believe I can still get a new reluctor which the name of the part you bent for around $20.00.
Did you find the little pin that locates the reluctor to the shaft?
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Thank you for the responses. I have the greenbook, and it describes -replacing- the impulse sensor, but I'm more interested in -repair- of the sensor or sourcing the replacement part.
I'm not as worried about the part I bent as I am about the 1.2 M-ohms I'm reading across the impulse sensor.
Thanks again!
Mike
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Hello there,
Glad to see you cleared up the wet engine issue and the rough running. Sure sorry to hear about the new no spark surprise!
I understand why you have concern about the correct ohmmeter reading. One would think that it is so high in resistance to pass electricity to do anything. That is so wrong to be thinking that way in this case.
Since I cannot obtain a exact number on that for you it's a tough call!
The 1.2 mega ohms is not bad since you have enough, or at least some continuity, that the coil is not shorted. It very well could be still functional if it's not nicked.
A very small magnetic field is all that is needed for the reluctor to break in between going to the pickup sensor.
An optical sensor could have been used in this case but this can be a dirty oily vapor environment. Any dust would have been an maintenance issue all by itself like a paper copier/printer machine.
The operation of the one in there now, led to the CPS design used on the flywheels of the 89's on.
It is Hard to say if it's better or not counting up its early failure rates?
The costs seem almost equal or less for the CPS unit. Because, the CPS looks easier to make and should be cheaper overall to manufacture.
Except you got to drill around the flywheel or make a big tin and flimsy reluctor? Whew! The choice was clear there! Imagine that laying around on a bench!
Neither sensor has a heavy current drawing function as both work with making "voltage only" signal dips! The heavy work is done in the ICU outputs to the coil.
My concern is the pickup sensor probably got wiped out in there! There is no test for it or if so its too is very high in ohms?
The reluctor vanes should have only cleared the pickup by a few thousandths inside there.
When considering to repairing the reluctor item, I would pass! You need a solid reliable unit in there!
The reluctor could be straighten, since its single piece of metal but in reality, not even me would go for it from the way it looks!
Since I see you have it off to play with, that is also far enough to change it all out completely!
Just write it off as a lesson, paid forward, to keep you alert and methodical down the line!
We all keep a forwarding account to pay to, someplace!
(:)
Phil
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I agree with you, Machine Man, that it is probably better to replace the internal winding (P/N 12766200) and rotor plate (P/N 12766176) rather than bend/solder. I was obsessing about the 1.2 M-Ohm because the green book says that the resistance should be 950-1250 ohm, much much lower than what I am reading. The internal winding definitely has some damage.
The question on my mind is if it is worth buying $70 in parts to repair this distributor, or just get the reman distributor for $133.
The wet engine thing was a hassle, but I got some great feedback here, like checking the hall sensor wiring that runs under the crank pulley, and checking the vac lines and electrical connections. I was still finding water in the plugs and vac lines after a month of 'drying' time.
I tested the Aux Air Valve (AAV) last night, and it closed after a few minutes with 12v hooked up. The piece of info I couldn't find in that diagnosis, was that it takes some time for the valve to close when energized (it is not instant) so when I first tested the AAV, it appeared to my untrained eye to be broken.
I apologize if my posts are confusing, I tried to separate my three distinct issues (AAV, hall effect repair, wet engine) into three separate topics to -avoid- confusion.
Thanks to all!
Keeping Portland Wierd,
-Mike
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I'm happy to hear back that you found good information on the ohms.
The air valve sets the top end fast idle speed when the engine is cold. I shoot for about 1200 rpm at the time I use the car the most. It will preset itself up or down after that, if colder happens.
When you are close enough it will time downward equally with the CPR's heating element that controls running mixture in the end, along with the O2 sensor or Lambda system.
As far as the decision on what to do you should reread Planetman remarks. He make very good points in favor of trying to get good parts and not relying only on rebuilders.
I would evaluate what you have in your hands as being worn in the ways he says gets by the rebuilders on purpose.
It is the one last thing your distributor can do for you and that is to teach you how it's made before you chuck it!
Surely you have it apart and know how to put it back together, especially the clips on the cap! (:-)
Now what, evaluate another distributor....a new new one, not happening! A near new one with a questionable rebuilt or one rebuilt by you!
A person that will know all about these distributors when he done!
I bet Planetman rebuilds his and has been down or up, Your River, on HIS boat many times before. HE writes from some wisdom, that only comes from age and shop experiences. IMHO, as I have never met the man.
Remember what I said about lessons to pay for and funding an asset account.
Rivers have more than one bend or rock in them.
Phil
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If you were getting a real thing remanufactured distributor that was done by Bosch or by Bosch for Volvo, that would be a great deal.
However, my experience with most rebuilders of distributors, including Cardone is you get a "spray can rebuild". In the case of this style of distributor, you might get a new impulse sender/pickup coil and a new cap and rotor, but they won't be Bosch parts. And they won't touch the distributor shaft bushings nor the advance mechanism.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Tue Mar 1 17:45 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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This is found in all Bosch Breakerless Ignitions of that era...not just Volvo...Porsche, VW, BMW, Mercedes...anything of that era with a Bosch Breakerless Ignition.
They rarely go bad. I did the same thing that you did on one my cars --- bent the star wheel.
Your posts are confusing, because you start with questions about this part and the You post and ask about a part and show a link for a complete distributor. This makes one think that you think you have to buy another distributor and that you really don't know that you can just replace the Impulse Sensor.....Then you post that you have the Green Book that shows how to remove and preplace the Impulse Sensor...SOOOOOO you do know how to do the Simple job.
In one of your recent posts you stated that your Volvo wouldn't run after you Washed the engine. You got solutions for a Wet Engine Bay....Then you write---Oh I washed it a month ago and it's been sitting in a heated garage....so all the wet engine solutions are....WASTED.
One thing for sure...you have certainly chosen an appropriate handle----having watched some of that TV series.
For the Part...Try these guys...just send them an email
http://www.voluparts.com/
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I have a new impulse sender/pickup coil as well, but those cost a bit more than the reluctor.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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