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Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

Anything wrong with using clear plastic packing tape to attach door moisture barriers?

I'm going to be opening up the doors on my '82 245 to lube the lock and window mechanisms, and will likely want to replace the moisture barriers.

The one door I've opened has what looks like brown kraft paper that was in bad shape and tore badly. I had expected plastic but the paper appeared to be the factory original as it had precisely-cut openings for the handles, etc.

I have some 6-mil plastic sheet (construction grade vapor barrier) that I'll cut to replace the paper.

I was going to use clear packing tape to attach it to the door frame -- unless somebody out there has a better way....

-Hendo
1982 245 GL Diesel
107k miles








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    Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

    I have used clear packing tape to reinforce paper boxes and have found that it dries out after a couple of years and falls off.

    As far as ordinary, inexpensive tape, I like common electrical tape.

    If you are worried about residue, test a piece of tape by trying to remove its adhesive. I find that turpentine gently removes many tape residues, including dried masking tape glue.

    I think that the wood base of the turpentine does the trick.








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      Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

      I used heavy clear plastic sheeting, and attached it with spray can glue: available at any craft shop or perhaps hardware store. Looks nice and tidy, stays put, but you can also peel it off later if you like.








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    Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

    I use duct tape. Also once the door panel is in place I doubt the vapor barrier is going to move around.








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    Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

    Dunno if it is a better way, but I've done this several times and each time I go for that huge roll of duct tape my wife bought 15 years ago when the Red Cross taught us to shelter in place for the anthrax threat. Having to return to the door cards for various reasons, like fixing door handles and keyless entry, I find the duct tape still hanging on. I imagine the packing tape would be too. Anything should be easier to deal with than the butyl.





    The newer cars (wild guess: 86-) changed the paper-or-plastic tune, so you're going the way of modernization.



    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore


    The ad says: "Automotive Technician Training -- Get Job Ready in Less Than a Year."








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      Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

      The only problem with duct tape is that the rubber adhesive eventually dries out and cracks. I would stick with the butyl tape since it retains its adhesive properties a lot longer. Messier, yes, but if you want to keep the car, go for it.








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        Door moisture barrier replacement -- best way to attach?

        As a racer of $500 cars, I can assure you that there are many grades of "duck" tape as there are an infinite number of grades of zip ties. For this application I would actually use the lowest, least adhesive 3-for-$5 non-stranded tape. Your goal is to hold it in place long enough to get the door car back on...not really any longer. The super-bargain tape listed above the perfect low-tack, no adhesive transfer temporary tape.

        In my world we use it to holy the microphone and drinking tube in our helmets because it lasts about a weekend at most. We also use it to hold stencils in place because it won't even remove our $13/gallon latex paint from the outside of the cars.








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        Duct tape has a light side and a dark side

        I think you are right, Steve. I repaired a hole in my rocker panel with that duct tape, and sure enough, after a year it started drying out and coming loose. Could be the UV and the road salt helped.


        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        Duct tape is like 'The Force'. It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.








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          Duct tape has a light side and a dark side

          I fondly recall several old PCC streetcars on the Boston E line with gaping rust holes in the front aprons, all crudely masked with silver duct tape by MBTA mechanics making probably $50 an hour. They finally scrapped or sold off most of their fleet, to be replaced by Boeing-built LRVs which promptly started rusting rapidly. No duct tape appeared, though, since the cars broke down early and were again scrapped before the rust penetrated inside.








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          Duct tape has a light side and a dark side

          LOL! Classic post Art.

          Actually, I think you might have just covered the hole, rather than 'repaired' it.

          Still chuckling....
          --
          82 242 6.2L coming...; '15 Honda Fit







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