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Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990

While driving the vehicle the engine tach will suddenly drop to zero and the car will momentarily stall. This only happens after the car has warmed up to operating temperature, 15 minutes or so. After reading the FAQ I narrowed it down to the Crank Position Sensor or the Radio Interference Relay. I have replaced both with new units.

On a test drive today the vehicle did the same thing, although it only did it once or twice and never actually stalled out. The idle is high at times, but when the car is running, it runs well.

Any further ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Clutch








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    Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990

    My experience in owning a Regina 940 for 19 or so years is that the CPS will rarely if ever throw a code. Replacing it when suspect is good practice as it can shut you down. The radio relay can be a problem, though I've never had it, replaced it a couple of years back as a precaution when I had the exact symptoms you have.

    You need to check/replace the main fuel pump relay, that is usually the culprit. It gets hot and the solder joints crack. Pull the relay, pop the cover off and check the solder joints with some magnification. The 3 big ones usually crack. I had 2 relays and both had cracks in the same locations. Re-solder them and you will be back in business.

    I have found the coil amplifier to be dead nuts reliable. I have 2 of them also, bought 2nd one when I was chasing the same problem. I have cleaned the connection of the coil to amplifier like once and put a small amount of conductive grease on it. Currently running the 1993 one.

    Of course, your mileage may vary, but I'd check the relay behind the ashtray first.

    Mike








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      Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990

      Well,

      I have replaced the CPS, the Radio Noise suppression Relay, the Fuel Pump Relay. I drove the car for a few days, and it always started and ran fine. Yesterday my son drove the car and it completely died on him within 1/2 mile of starting out. It now cranks, but will not catch at all.

      The fuel pump and filter are both less than a year old.

      Any ideas?

      Clutch








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        Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990








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          Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990

          Have rex reg that has been acting similarly. Take a good look at the faq on brickboard. I wonder if you are familiar with the service bulletin regarding cold start injector? I am going to look into this and also the thermostat sensor. Please keep posting, will do same.








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    Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990

    Also check the grounds. I had a similar problem and cleaning the grounds cured it. The ground connections are on the fuel rail and on a connector to the body on both sides of the engine compartment up by the headlights.

    Good luck.
    Phil








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    Rex/Regina 4 cyl Engine Cut Out 700 1990

    Have you read out the fault codes? A faulty CPS or it's wiring "should" record a fault code. A bad RIR won't record a code, but will interrupt power to the injectors. I believe the FAQ describes a way to jump wire the RIR in a way that will provide constant power to the injectors (for troubleshooting purposes only).

    Another part of the Rex/Regina system that can act up without recording a fault code is the combination coil/power stage. The internal connections and mating surfaces become dirty and/or oxidized which will interrupt the ignition, especially when it gets warm. Removing a couple torx screws will provide access to the internals so you can clean it up.

    So NOW when it craps out, does the tach still drop to zero? The CPS, or its wiring, are about the only things I can think of that will cause that. There has been discussion in the past pertaining to a white band or yellow band on the CPS. Apparently the cars were built with one color that is notorious for failing so you want to replace it with the other color. Sorry but I don't recall which is good and which is bad so hopefully someone else will know. Did you replace it with an OE brand or an aftermarket version?
    --
    Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)







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