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Greetings from Florida,
I recently purchased a '58 444, with a B18 engine (SU's) and 4 speed transmission. A sunroof has been added..."way back when", which apparently is pretty rare? She runs pretty well, but stopping is another story.
A cosmetic restoration was done in 1992. Since all the suspension & brake components appear to be original, I need advice/recommendations from the group on springs, shocks, sway bar and brake upgrades. I want to keep the stock appearance, but upgrade the components for a better & safer driving car.
I'll post some pictures in a day or so. Many thanks!
Cheers,
Wayne
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Check how the new shoes fit their respective drums - if they do not contact fully, find a shop that can radius them or you will not get proper performance.
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Hi James,
Good point. I found a box full of brake drums and backing plates in the trunk...so obviously someone at some point rebuilt the brakes. My guess...many, many years ago.
When I start work in January, fitting the shoes to the (turned) drums will be one of the first tasks. Thanks for replying, much appreciated.
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Make sure you keep the extra drums, new ones cost an arm and a leg.
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Unless you are rallying the car, I am going to suggest you keep it fairly stock.
Lowering coils, sway bar kits, performance shocks and polyurethane bushings are available.
The stock brakes aren't the worst, but I do like the idea of upgrading to front discs and updating the rear brakes to the later style. I really don't like the early self adjusting brake mechanisms used on the 444.
However, the front brake conversion will cost over $1000.00 just in parts if you buy everything new.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Eric,
When did Volvo update the rear brakes? I can't find a mention of it in the repair manuals I have.
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Hi Eric,
Many thanks and I agree with you. I don't plan (yet) on rallying the 444, so replacing the old parts with new stock items makes perfect sense. Due to the cost, I'm going to wait on converting the front brakes to disc and simply redo the brakes all around with stock replacements.
Quick question...is there a recommended replacement for the stock shocks? The goal is to improve handling, with minimally firmer ride quality. Doable?
Best,
Wayne
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OP wrote--"I'm going to wait on converting the front brakes to disc and simply redo the brakes all around with stock replacements."
If the 444 brakes are like the '65 544 I owned brakes should not be a worry. One of the things I had to do with my car was a complete brake overhaul. I'd owned many cars with front disc brakes as well as many cars with drums all around. The Volvo brakes worked very well-one of its best points. Of course with drums you have to be aware while descending mountains not to overheat them - and caution when going through deep puddles as water will finds its way between the brake shoes and drum - resulting in possible loss of braking. -- Dave
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Thanks Dave...that seems to be the prevailing opinion...that the brakes are actually pretty good. That saves me money and time, both good things!
Thanks for your reply. Work begins in January.
Cheers!
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Hello Wayne,
There are Bilsteins and Konis, but the Bilsteins are $135.00 each and the Konis are $230.00 each.
You can buy Monroe shocks and maybe Gabriels that are made in the USA or ?, but they are crap and don't last very long.
I prefer the European made shocks that Volvos still sells.
Apparently Monroe bought Boge, the original manufacturer of shocks for the older Volvos in Europe, so the European shocks now have Monroe labels, but they are still made to Volvo spec's and a full set of 4 Volvo OEM shocks costs way less than 2 of the Konis.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Thanks Eric...good to know. I had no idea that Volvo still sold shocks for models this old. Pretty impressive.
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I actually have the shocks in stock as I usually sell a set or 2 every year.
Volvo doesn't have everything, but they still sell all of the front and rear suspension kits and a lot more for your 444.
I specialize in rear wheel drive Volvos and I still get a good portion of my parts from Volvo.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Hi Eric,
Great...I'll get on your website and look around. When I start on the car (January), I'll need shocks,bushings and other related suspension parts. I don't know if the springs are original, but they look it, so they will be replaced also.
I checked over the engine yesterday and discovered that someone had rigged up an electronic fuel pump and simply placed a rubber fuel line over both the outlets in the engine driven pump. Perhaps the pump failed and this was a quick solution? Who knows? So, it looks like I'm going to need either a new fuel pump if available, or a rebuild kit.
Your thoughts on installing the electronic distributor would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Wayne
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Hello Wayne,
My website is not complete and probably never will be as new parts are being added and some parts are discontinued, so if you can't find something, send an email or call.
An electric fuel pump is a viable option as I don't like selling the easily available new mechanical fuel pumps. However, most people don't take the time to properly wire an electric pump so it shuts off in case of an accident.
The first 3 styles of original Volvo mechanical fuel pumps were all rebuildable and I can still get repair kits for all of them, but all of the repair kits cost near or over $50.00.
In both cases mentioned above, the new mechanical fuel pump is cheaper to install.
I really like the 123Ignition distributor as it is all new and all electronic so no more points and condensers to change and tune ups last at least twice as long. Unfortunately, the 123Ignition distributors are expensive. I just sold 1 and it cost $437.50 plus shipping.
You can convert a stock distributor for less, but the stock advance mechanism is still being used and there can be other issues.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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HI Eric,
The electric fuel pump on my car is not equipped with an oil pressure cut-off switch. Not good. I really have no idea why the electric pump was added, other than it was a cheap(er) fix after the engine-driven pump failed. Just a guess. The mechanical pump is simply capped off.
You mentioned you don't like selling the new and readily available manual pumps...is the quality simply no good? The one on my car doesn't look old, but it apparently failed.
So, the question is...refit a new electric pump (no idea how old mine is) fitted with an oil pressure cut-off switch....or simply revert back to either a new manual pump, or find an older one and rebuild it? If you have an older one for a B18, let me know.
Best,
Wayne
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Hello Wayne,
The new fuel pumps supplied by the aftermarket for the last 15 years have check valves I don't trust. And part of the job of the check valves is to control fuel pressure. In comparison to the check valves used in the Volvo original mechanical fuel pumps, the new ones are flimsy and don't have springs. So whenever I use one I like to check the dead head and operating fuel pressure after I install one. I have seen this style of check valve being capable of 7 lbs and that is too much. And overflowing float bowls is not what you want over a hot exhaust manifold.
HOWEVER, I HAVE NOT ENCOUNTERED HIGH FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEMS WITH THE LATEST BATCH OF FUEL PUMPS SOURCED THROUGH PPS (Professional Parts of Sweden), even though they do have the flimsy style of check valves.
Although I did have to replace a PPS fuel pump under warranty because the outlet tube was loose and leaking fuel. And that's when I noticed that their tubes aren't cast into the upper housing, but GLUED IN PLACE!
Post a picture of your existing mechanical fuel pump as it might be one of the older ones that is worth rebuilding.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Eric,
I think I'll stick with the electric fuel pump (for now), since my engine-driven pump is DOA. the existing electric pump will be replaced (leaking...and not at the hose connection). So, having said that, I need recommendations on a new one....specifically what psi is needed for the twin SU setup. Apparently it's low...less than 2 psi? Any recommendations? Fuel pressure regulator needed as well?
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I think I read somewhere the SU setup is best at 4-6 psi fuel pressure. Even if that isn't the exact range, it's still very low.
--
Tony - 1958 Volvo PV444, 2012 Volvo XC70 T6 Polestar
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Hi Tony,
I noticed you're driving a '58 444. I sure would appreciate any tips, feedback, etc. on restoring this particular model. I begin the process in January. My 444 was last cosmetically restored in 1992. It has a B18 motor with 4 speed. Interior is shot, brakes are lousy, paint is lousy....sounds like a typical project! The engine, thankfully, runs great...except for the leaking fuel pump.
Cheers!
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Volvo repair manual specifications 1.5-3.5 psi.
4 psi is acceptable, but anything higher should get a pressure regulator.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Eric,
I took some pics of the existing engine driven pump, which I'll send once I figure out the posting procedure for the site. The old pump is oxidized big time...doesn't look like it's been used in a long, long while. It does have the fiber spacer and gasket, which is good.
thanks for the info on the pressure.
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Will do Eric...though my pump looks pretty shiny, so I'm guessing it's a newer one.
If I go the electric route, do you recommend the pumps from Facet? I use these on older Lycoming 4-cylinder engines and they do a great job.
The existing pump is from Professional Products...called a Powerflow. It's leaking and when I read over the pump instructions, it's supposed to be mounted within 12" of the bottom of the fuel tank...and it's not. It's probably 6" above the top of the tank and mounted up on the fender well.
I'll send a picture of the engine driven pump later today. Thanks again!
Wayne
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I rebuilt the suspension on my 444 2 years ago with new shocks (KYB, I think), new "stock" springs (same spring rate as original), polyurethane bushings were I could find them and new rubber bushings were I couldn't. Used new hardware wherever I could,and soda-blased & painted parts to make them look new and last longer. It rides perfectly. For my use, it's set up perfectly. I also put on new Coker white walls, which made a huge difference as well.
If I was running as a daily or even wanted to track it, I would probably go with Bilsteins or Konis (worth the $$, imho), put stiffer springs on it, and go with aftermarket wheels with wider tires (this may require modification to some components so they fit properly). I also second Eric's suggestion to go with front discs if you want to use the car that way.
--
Tony - 1958 Volvo PV444, 2012 Volvo XC70 T6 Polestar
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