Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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140 engine mounts 140-160

posted by  Tfrasca on  Wed Nov 25 01:07 CST 2015
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I just replaced the engine and trans mounts on my 142 with the units that IPD sells. I didn't realize that they weren't OEM replacements until I got the package, but I installed them anyway. Now my engine rocks worse than it did with old worn out mounts. The rubber feels softer than it should, too.

Does anyone have experience with bad aftermarket mounts? Are the Volvo ones still available and are they a different durometer than the IPD ones?

Also, I wonder about using IPD's HD trans mount in the engine mount positions. Anyone done that?

Thanks,

Tyler








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    140 engine mounts 140-160

    uid 37336's pic
    posted by  B20Paul. on  Tue Dec 1 13:00 CST 2015
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    last visit: Mon Oct 20 10:54 CST 2014
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    164 mount on the LHS is required if you dump the clutch and shift roughly, especially if you race or rally, but they are rougher. I use a brace on the LHS too that connects a bellhousing bolt on one end to the firewall at the other. It's lasted 30+ years without cracking anything, so that makes it better than the hunk of junk that IPD makes.
    --
    69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual








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    140 engine mounts 140-160

    posted by  someone claiming to be blackjackmac on  Fri Nov 27 13:18 CST 2015 [RELATED]

    Ford Cortina mounts are similar.








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      140 engine mounts 140-160

      posted by  derek uk on  Sat Nov 28 05:58 CST 2015
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:33 CST 2014
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      Land Rover ones are also tough and cheap but the stiffer you go the more noise and vibration is transferred to the body. No problem if racing but not so good for general road use if you are sensitive to that sort of thing.








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        140 engine mounts 140-160

        posted by  Tfrasca on  Sun Nov 29 10:58 CST 2015
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        Good to know about the Land Rover mounts.

        I am not racing the car, so I don't need the mounts to be overly stiff. I think my particular problem is a combination of really soft aftermarket mounts and a rough running engine. The B18 that's in my 142 has a badly worn cam lobe and some questionable timing control, since the centrifugal advance is sloppy- so I think it's shaking around more than any B18/20 should.

        That being said, I have a recently freshened up B20/M41 to put in the car, so I'm not super concerned about the tune of the B18. I just want to get some *slightly* stiffer mounts for when I do the swap. Also, my car is quite low, so comfort is probably not my number one priority.

        Thanks guys, for all the help!

        Tyler
        '68 142S
        '70 144S








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    140 engine mounts 140-160

    posted by  JohnH on  Fri Nov 27 10:39 CST 2015
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    last visit: Mon Oct 6 00:29 CST 2014
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    I've also used 164 mounts with great success. To get rid of most engine shake - and prolong the life of the mounts under rally conditions - I built an engine steady bar. I use a 164 mount at each end, so I've always got spares in the car.

    Regards
    --
    JohnH, Sydney, Australia








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    140 engine mounts 140-160

    uid 5322's pic
    posted by  alschnertz on  Wed Nov 25 15:25 CST 2015
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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    I've used 164 engine mounts for the engine and gearbox on my 140s and 745T and was always happy with them.

    Not sure the brand though as it's been many years. They were aftermarket, but I'm sure they were not ScanTech (now known as ProParts Sweden I believe).








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    140 engine mounts 140-160

    posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Wed Nov 25 08:48 CST 2015
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    last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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    The new aftermarket mounts I had in stock turned out to be way stiffer than original. On cold start up my car feels like the motor is mounted solid--smooths out to tolerable levels once the motor is warmed up.
    As for using a trans mount -- an issue might be the length of the stud which has to pass through the aluminum bracket. -- Dave







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