I bought a 1990 240 wagon as a project/ first car. Once I replaced the fuel pump it started and drove. About a week ago it died and wouldn't start again. I tried charging the battery and it started but when I tried starting it again it would'nt. Obviously the alternator. I looked at the alternator and realized the small red wire was cut and not attached to the alternator. I did some research and If I am correct this wire goes to the dash. My gauge cluster isn't working and this is probably why. Anyway, my dad and I reconnected it and checked the connection of the large red wire. We charged the battery and started it and it died again. Today I found that one of my wires coming from the negative battery terminal is just dangling freely. The negative side is already grounded to the side of the wheel well and I have no idea where this other one goes. I also found what could be an alternator connection that is completely severed. (See pics) IIt seems unlikey that the alternator is bad becasue the owner before me put a refurbished one in. Any ideas on what the problem is or where the negative wire goes?
Note: The issue is not the battery, I installed an new one and new terminals when I got the car.

Be patient with me lol, this is my first car and I'm new to a lot of this stuff. I will look at the little red wire again tomorrow and hook up my gauge cluster again. The first time I "fixed" the little red wire could be faulty. Thanks for the help!

go here

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guides

download this for a start.

Volvo Problem Solver Advanced Edition-1.pdf

there's also all the Volvo repair manuals for downloading that you will need as you proceed with your 240 adventure.

Thanks for the replies and info! I appreciate it. I've never heard of an alt lamp before. Is it one of the warning lights on my dash? I opened it up and there are some symbols I dont recognize that might be an alternator light. My gauges have never worked since I've had the car and I originally thought it was a blown fuse on the cluster until I realized the small red wire (excite wire) was cut. I have not reinstalled it yet. Could it be that the gauge box is needed to be in place for the alternator to work??

Also tomorrow I will test the voltage in multiple places to see what is drawing / has current.

Most cars have an alternator warning lamp--rather than a more expensive volt meter or amp meter. On your 240 the alternator lamp lens has a simple drawing of a battery--the oil pressure lamp lens has a drawing of a dripping oil can. Older 240's show "ALT" and "OIL" and yes--the cluster has to be hooked up for any of it to work. -- Dave

I do not know how to explain this in your terms (not an insult).

That little red wire is EVERYTHING for all but a couple of you warning lights.

The Battery warning lamp supplies exciter voltage to the alternator.

That red wire needs repaired AND after that you need to diagnose if your warning lights turn on in KPII.

Sorry I dont know how to upload the images, they're too big.

The battery positive terminal cable goes from the battery to the large post on the starter. From there a "not quite as fat" red wire (around 10 gauge) wraps around the front of the motor to the large post on the alternator. The negative post on the battery should be grounded to the motor and to the body. Because the alternator is isolated by rubber bushings it needs to be grounded to the motor. The original alternator ground is another 10 gauge wire (blueish in color) attached to one of the four screws that hold the alternator halves together (should be the one closest to the block--10mm wrench needed) and grounded to one of the lower alternator bracket bolts (13mm socket needed). The small red wire attached to the back of the alternator (the exciter wire) goes to the "alt" lamp on the instrument panel. With the ignition switched on the lamp has to light for the alternator to work (a broken wire or burned out bulb will keep the alternator from working). If all these wires are attached to the proper places the alternator should work if it's good. You have to start with knowing all these items are ok. -- Dave

The first time when it wouldn't start was when I stalled out (still learning manual :p ) It would not start again. The next day I charged the battery and let it idle. it did not die while idling. I killed it and it wouldn't start again.

The is a wire grounding the alternator but it doesn't go to the engine block. It connects to the body of the car. I posted pictures, if you need more to go by I'll post more.

There should be a ground on the engine block.
Dan

The small red (exciter) wire needs to be attached for the alternator for it to charge the battery.
Dan

The engine and electronics needs a good well charged battery to run. You need a volt meter to test the battery voltage at rest, when starting, and at idle.

I'm not sure if the engine is stalling due to other problems or if it is battery related.
Dan

"Started and died again" What does this mean? It died immediately?

The alternator case should be grounded with a wire to the engine block, I don't see any pictures.

If you don't have one you should get a voltmeter.

Dan