The Volvo 164, imho, is one of the pinnacle models of RWD Volvo auto.

Though stately and executive, they are simple and durable design.

Watch the rust as infection can travel up and down the unibody seams if the undercoating and blind compartments oiling (use Waxoyl, today) were not maintained (I should talk ...).

The if D-jet equipped, take care to care for the injection system vagaries. One aspect is the short run fuel line between fuel rail and injector. May want to replace the fuel line with new to tolerate with ethanol.

1973, at least in North America, is the first big 164 "commando" bumper year per U.S. DOT reqs. 1972 was the last year of the slim line bumper that recesses at the center so you have the classic large front unobstructed grill. (Reinforced doors started in 1972, though on all Volvo auto.)

Consider all rubber, like fuel line, suspension bushes, parking brake cable sheath, motor mounts, transmission kick down cable sheath, drive shaft carrier bearing housing (and probably bearing) and like pieces for inspection and replacement. Use silicon grease to lube sheathed cables, like SuperLube.

Front AND rear wheel bearings. Check, inspect. Seals on the front hubs. The rear hubs and their tapered bearings, if not serviced before, must be repacked. The inner and outer seals may be suspect. NLGI-2 regular (not synthetic grease) is best.

Is the brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir black? A complete inspection and brake system restoration may be required. Including calipers and brake check valve, as well as the flex brake lines (rubber).

You may need to inspect the wire harness for chafing and age-related deterioration. Inspect connectors. DeoxIT at all wire harness and other electrical connectors.

And of course, the timing gears. Though a prior owner should have replaced these. Pay care to the oiling nipples that feeds the timing gears. As on B18-20 and so forth.

I wish Volvo would have continued the I-6, RWD tradition like BMW and Mercedes. You see that in the awfully complex I-6 Porsche-Volvo white block engine. in the 960, S-V 90, though, with care, the later S-V 90s are awesome auto cars. (Wish they came with proper beefy manual transmission, as with the final 940s.)

Oh, and seals. Body seals, engine seals, differential seals.

While is may have only 180,xxx on the clock, you are dealing with age of the 164. So, be mindful.

The Volvo 164 is a stand alone from a stand alone auto car company.

I hope you find a good example to start with for the restoration joy and motoring enthusiasm.

Just be careful at high speeds over 100 MPH. The 164 can tend to get a little airborne at speed over 100 MPH with Bernoulli at work (wing lift). A front valance (air damn) may help. Lowering can help, yet the 164 appears best at factory ride height.

You can reach about 130 MPH with the BW35 nearing RPM orange line and poor mileage. One retrofit is the BW55 which is more efficient.

The parts for conversion of BW35 auto to M410 manual (M400 + D-type over drive) are very scarce, now. It may be more useful to consider a swap in and fabrication for an appropriate transmission from another RWD make and model. Though you can get lucky, should you want to take this on.

You can search the indexes for posts by Mr. George Downs. Mr. Downs' brickboard handle is walrus3. Search here or on brickboard. His posts and responses to posts on the 164 are perhaps among the most informative on this model.

You also have insightful information searching the various Volvo 164-specific web site in Europa and the Volvo sites in the UK and Europa. The the UK Volvo club.

Hope that helps.

I'm jealous. To own a worthy Volvo 164 and have facility to restore on of these, the mightiest and most power of all Volvo automobiles, well, is a privilege.

I'll have my three Volvo 240s, deteriorating, outdoors, all the time, in a rental parking lot. Dag nab it.

cheers,

Mac Duffed.
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Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful Comedian, Presenter, Comedic Actor, Artist, & Author of North America in Perpetuity