Hi RobertD and Spook,

Happy Eggnog Holidays.

I imagine you mean the camshaft counterhold tool fro the B234 quattrovalve redblock engine, yes?

There is a Volvo tool, part number 9995199, that serves as the camshaft counter hold tool where you manually hold the, um, counterhold tool, as you remove the center nut that secures the timing belt over head camshaft pulley from the B234 redblock engine (and the intermediate cam pulley?). (I think this is the same tool to remove the upper and intermediate cam from the 8-valve B230.)



White block engine shown in the image. Probably a B6304 in a 960 / S & V 90.

http://www.etoolcart.com/volvo-camshaft-counter-hold-wrench-v9995199.aspx

This tool appears to be a cast aluminum alloy or drop forged cast steel tool.

You must be careful when buying Volvo-specific tools. Some may be made as stamped steel, and can bend, like the harmonic balancer crankshaft pulley counter hold for B230/B234. The original vendors for Volvo tools that sell to Volvo Cars is SPX/OTC. The same you'd buy from the dealership.

I doubt you can find rental Volvo tools anymore. Volvo Penta used to rent Volvo tools. I think iPd may do so. Maybe check the Volvo Club of America chapter near you (www.vcoa.org)?

Another counter hold exists for the harmonic balancer crankshaft part number 9995284. Meant for the low friction engine harmonic balancer crank pulley. However, some of these from different vendors may not fit the slots in the newer editions of the harmonic balancer crankshaft pulley.





You've probably read this:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/B234Ftimingbelts.htm

There is a suggestion on removing the intermediate camshaft timing gear sprocket using an L-shaped tool like a large Allen wrench. Verify for yourself.

Has information on the replacement bolt for the intermediate camshaft that drives the oil pump:

The replacement bolt is Volvo p/n 948472, an extra strong metric 10.9 class M10 x 1.5 mm (standard thread) x 30 mm long bolt including a flat washer (Volvo p/n 960148). This appears to be an upgrade from the original class 8.8 25.4 mm long bolt which should reduce or eliminate the incidence of failure. Use the new, higher grade bolt as this is a critical engine part.

Though read on to the next paragraph. You want to replace all three camshaft pulley bolts. Also, verify all three camshaft pulleys are in fine fettle. I've seen these cracked from mis-install on 8-valve redblock ohc engines.

Begs the question if we should all upgrade to the harder, tougher timing belt camshaft pulley bolt on our 8-valve overhead cam engines. I forget about this issue.

There is another issue with the camshafts and how the securely align with the end of the cam shafts. There is a pin, made of rolled steel, that aligns into a keyway at the hub of the intake and exhaust camshaft ends. (Same thing on all redblock overhead cam engines.) On performance engines with a lot of power, the rolled steel pins have been known to fail. iPd and other manufacture, or used to, replacement solid carbon-steel pins that you can easily tap in with a small hammer to seat them. Where you get these, I dunno. You can ask iPd, search the brickboard, and search and ask on turbobricks.com.

Also, check:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm

Hope that helps you.

Others with more recent hand-on performance experience like Dan (pageda) and Onkel can help you. (They both race Volvos and other cars.)

I sort of would like a B234 all fixed up like you are doing. Yet am behind the ball keeping three 240s with normally aspirated 8-valve ohc redblock engines rolling, with no garage.

Questions?

Thank you,

Off the Buttermilk and into the Eggnog Holiday Season Boyeeeeeee
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful Comedian & Comedic Actor North America in Perpetuity