Hi guys, been awhile. Old Mrs Klankenborg is still around, just had a new exhaust and center driveshaft support bearing installed so she's back on the road as a DD. Mopping up a few old issues today. Driver's window has intermittently failed to go down. It always goes back up if it'll go down, but now it's not budging at all. The glass is not sticking as far as I know being that it was working up until last week.

I have replaced/swapped the window switch several times. Previously that has fixed the problem, until it comes back. What I noticed today (because it was dusk) is that there's some arcing/spark inside a known-good switch with no motor action. Never saw that before. The other three windows work, and the fuse has never blown. Without disassembling the door and replacing the motor, is there a way to check first if the motor is no good?

Check the 700/900 FAQ for window switches. If they look like yours, they can be improved a LOT by taking them apart and cleaning them.

Be careful, there is a rocker contact, and a spring and ball if I recollect correctly - don't let them get away!

I turned the rocker around in each switch as the up contact usually shows more wear than the down.

Lastly, the contacts should resemble a flattened dome, sort of like a frisbee - take a good look at one in good condition.

Use a fine file to clean and shape the contact - don't take too much off. Finish the job by using a burnishing tool - a tool that is much finer than a file.

It is the switch and it needs to be taken apart and contacts cleaned.
Dan

I just drill a tiny holein the bottom big enough for a deoxit spray tube to go in and spray away, then work the swiitch numerous times. Just go 1mm into the switch with the drill no more. Taking them apart is frustrattion.

I swapped in a working switch that controlled the back window to the driver's window connector, it didn't go and I saw arcing, swapped it back to the original rear window connector and the back window opened (and closed, whew, after the arcing). I left the old switch in place for now. So I'm pretty sure it's not a problem with the switch.

With all the rain here in Atlanta I'm not likely to want to open any windows for awhile anyway.

You may be able to apply voltage directly to the motor at the switch connections.
Pg 13 of http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Volvo%20240%201991.pdf shows that the red and black wires go to the motor.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Unless you are swapping in new switches these things are nearly 25 years old and the contacts need to be cleaned in order to pass enough current to make the motors work. This is a common problem, your motor is likely fine.
Dan

In my experience its typically a break in the wire bundle that heads through the drivers door. Had this happen 3 times on 3 different cars. This can only effect 1 of the 4 windows.

Go to volvowiringdiagrams.com to get the appropriate diagram and troubleshoot-away!!

While I'm in there I spray some de-oxit into the switches and dont bother taking them apart.