I have a beautiful chromed timing gear cover I want to place on my B20E. There is no doubt this will make my car go faster. I rebuilt the motor 35 years ago, and have a metal gear set installed with only 45,000 miles on the motor. The chromed cover has a new rubber crank seal installed.

I am worried about the oil pan gasket that joins between the cover and oil pan. I will attempt to prevent damage to the gasket when I remove the cover, but if the gasket breaks, what is the best practice for resealing it.

I plan to use the Permatex Ultra Black maximum oil resistance Gasket Maker, and piece in a new partial oil pan gasket. I will clean up the mating surfaces with brake cleaner. How thick do I lay the gasket goop on the gasket. Or do I even use a gasket with this stuff?

Any tips on how to preserve the original gasket when removing the cover? If the gears are worn, will this be evident upon inspection?

Thanks for taking time to help. Its always more fun to learn with back up from those that have done this professionally.

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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

I have a beautiful chromed timing gear cover I want to place on my B20E. There is no doubt this will make my car go faster.

I have no doubt it will punish your oil! Also, how can it be chromed? It would simply be polished up. I would take your chrome tappet cover off and sell it with your timing cover to someone not as smart as you and let them overheat their oil.



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69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual

OMG Paul, you are right. It is even better that upon careful inspection I find this cover is actually a very well done polishing job of an original cover, polished and milled out for a new rubber seal. It was not chromed (my bad), indeed but this is even better for it matches my finely polished intake manifold and I run less risk of overheating my oil cuz its not chromed. You see, I have been ill and my memory took a few hits. I forgot the cover details.

And there is good news. Not to worry about overheated oil on my engine. I am sure that my removing the oil filter from the stock location surrounded by the red hot exhaust manifold to its current location would more than compensate for the added heat my chromed tappet cover would cause. I have an IPD remote oil filter system with steel braided hoses, that also add surface area available for radiant oil cooling.

What do you have against an engine looking smart and clean? I think I have done a great job of modification of the B20E while still adhering to many stock appearances, including and especially the fuel system. I even kept the stock fuel rail and injectors. Notice the chromed injector hold down covers.

I haven't helped a lot of people with old D-jet systems,a low N. But it is significant that all of the four cars I have worked on had heat,age and vibration damage done at the harness connections to the plugs, and all needed repair. None had the original boots installed, the heat underneath the engine bay had cooked them off. AND the new boots look so good!!
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Be gentle on removal.. that's really the only way to save that bottom part of the seal, and it don't necessarily work. But, sounds like you have it under control. Even if you break that gasket, you can 'glue' it back together, or make a new one out of a Mac & Cheese box (my preference, but cereal boxes work okay too)

I look forward to hearing performance reports, before and after. I figure the chrome should gain you an easy 7.5hp, which is significant!

:)
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

As said, be careful. A single edge razor blade might help you to ease off the gasket. I wouldn't worry too much about the steel gear but making sure the oiler nozzle is clear would be a good idea. Fitting it to get the oil jet directly at the junction of the gears helps give them a bit of a cushion.

Derek,
Thank you for the suggestion about the razor and oil sprayer. That is the experience thing I need.

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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Loosen pan bolts 2 or 3 back from the timing cover. -- Dave