Well, I believe my 1992 245 is coming to the end of its useful life. Too much rust has taken its toll. I've owned it for 10 years and have done a lot of work on it. But the rust is in the frame and rockers now and I just don't have the time or $ to keep up with it anymore.

That brings me to my question - I have a line on a 1-owner metallic blue 1987 245 with 160k miles on it. It is a standard transmission without a factory roof rack. This configuration is probably the most desirable to me: stick-shift wagon, low mileage (for a 30 yr. 240), one-owner, garage-kept, virtually rust free (a couple small spots that can be dealt with now before problems arise), and plenty of records indicating routine maintenance.

I saw this car in a local parking lot a few months back. It was in such nice condition that I left a note with my contact info in case the owner ever thought to sell. Just got that call, so there won't be any competition. Seller is asking a very reasonable price as well.

So before I commit, are there any known problems with this model year? I have owned a 1983, a 1992 and a 1993. My '92 did not have ABS (Canadian model) so I'm ok with that. It'd be nice to have an airbag, but my '83 didn't. The A/C has been upgraded. I have no familiarity with the 2.2 system, and I have really come to rely on the onboard diagnostic system on the '92/'93. How much more challenging is it to trouble-shoot without it on the earlier models? I was not DIY'ing it with the '83, so all of my mechanical expertise has been learned on the '92/'93.

I know the engine harness has issues if it's the early version. Assuming it is the original early version harness, is it cause to not buy the car even if there is no sign of degradation? How much of an expense is it to replace? Was Volvo using the galvanized sheet metal by '87? I really want to avoid at all costs the specter of rust again as it can so sadly ruin an otherwise trustworthy and long-lived car.

Any other thoughts or concerns related to the 1987 model year? It is a true 9/10+ cosmetically and in terms of prior-owner care. The seller indicated he and his wife will probably cry when they see it go and their biggest wish is to see it go to a caring home. This is always a good sign.

https://cf.searchtempest.com/go-1.1.html#http%3A//newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/5276468974.html

I have an 87 245, which I bought in 1997 at 103K from the OrigOwner, with the unfortunate plus of his daughter having it thru college.

My problems were with the M47 Trans. It failed. The Orig Owner told me he had a bearing replaced. It failed on me, the fluid was full of metal shards...drove it thru to 125k when it started to hum.

Some 87's had the M47, some had the M47II, which fixed the bearing, and the low placement of the filler port. It's hard to tell which one you've got from just looking at the case.

Also the wiring harness may or may not be the one that degrades. The best way to tell is to look at the wires at the Grey connector at the firewall, tracing the wires toward the intake manifold...you may have to cut the plastic cover to get a good view. The other place is under the Crank...if there is major oil contamination here...degradable harness or not...oil leaks from the crank seal will do a job on the insulation.

Rust...the lower body is hot dipped, as were all from 86 on.

Mine is still running with 200K, with a Tranny Transplant at 125K.

The Hall Sensor has not been a problem. And if it needs to be replaced, you will hear OH you need a entire new Distrib. Not so. It is a simple replacemnet, However, the module needs to be slid off the Distrib Shaft at the BOTTOM...this means pulling the Distrib and removing the drive gear...just drive out the pin....slide off the old Hall Sensor and slide on the new...replace drive gear and pin.

The Great thing out the 86-88's is that you can adjust the Timing by rotating the Distributor....after 89 with the use of the CPS this is no longer possible

That's good to know about the transmission. I have not had a chance to test drive the car, but I didn't hear any bearing noise when he ran it out of the garage. I will have a close look at that when I go back for a "twice"-over.

My '92 transmission started getting very noisy just in the last few months, and as was thought in earlier posts, the input shaft bearing is on its way out. I was able to find a good spare M47 thinking I would install in the '92, but if I buy the '87 I'll just keep it as a spare. Are the M47 and M47II compatible?

Yes M47 and M47II ...they changed the rear bearing to a tapered and changed the way the 5th gear hangs.

Take a look at the diagrams in the Green Book....

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/-%20Service%20Manuals

pdf TP30941-1 M46, M47, M47II and Overdrives.pdf
PAGE 30 pic M47 M47II 5th gear


If the Owner let's you --- Drain the tranny into a white/light colored pan...get a cat litter pan from a pet store. Look (of course at the drainplug mag) but also for particles in the fluid...brass means the syncros are getting eaten. Some metallic shimmers is not a bad thing...choose your own alarm threashold.

If you buy it don't use ATF --- as per the manual. Use Redline MTL, Amsoil, Red Purple, or Volvo's Manual tranny fluid.. All are Synthetic 75W80 GL-4 Gear Oil.
This is now what Volvo sez it uses in all Manual trans up to 1995...good bye ATF.

PS:

the only problem I had with the LH2 was a failed AMM, which showed the typical, started...stall stall stall, when cold. This was also mentioned by the OrigOwner.

I was able to trouble shoot other tweeks to the AMM with a Digital Meter and guidance from Bently and The Advanced Troubleshooting. ie setting CO(yeh you can do that on an 87)

I didn't have Green Books but the Brick Board was just getting started....DIAL_UP Babeeee Dial-Up.

The wife's car is an 87 we have had sense it was new. As others have stated the two potential problems are the wiring harness, and rust.

If the harness is bad it can be changed out, no big deal. The rust issue is the challenge, they didn't improve on that until 88.

Open the doors and look at the sills, the portion that would be the topside of the rocker panel. Rust often starts here as a spot the size of a dime, and will advance rapidly.

Between the 87 and a 83 I once owned is where I became familiar with two of my favorite rust repair products, PC-7 and POR-15. Rust is your major concern with this car.

The other thing I will mention is, yes this is the small rod engine with the short piston skirts. And it started to rattle and clatter on start-up until it gets warm, at about the 100K mark. It now has over 240K, still runs strong and does not smoke or burn oil. I have no problem with the LH 2.2, the way I look at it is this car is as reliable as my 2.4 without the hassle of diagnosing or changing a CPS, whats not to like?
--
Bruce S. near D.C.

1987 has not wiring harness issues and the body is galvanized.

LH 2.2 parts are much more rare and the hall-sensor distributor is occasionally problematic (does not fail anymore than the CPS but is more expensive when it does).

AC likely has not been upgraded, just converted to R134a, but 1987 should have the better rotary compressor.

This is an early B230f and may be the small rod motor depending on build date. Not a big issue because it will die of cancer before the motor is you promary issue.

I forget but I think that is an M45 (4 speed plus overdrive) which is good.

I also think that might have been one of the two years (I am 90% sure the 1986 was) that uses generic fuel pump relays instead of the overly complete specialty relays.

All in all, not a terrible year. Low mileage still means a lot of age-related failures are likely for rubber or electrical parts.

"1987 has not wiring harness issues and the body is galvanized. "

87 harness is the last year of the biodegradable version and galvanized body parts did not appear until 89.

I would say rust and harness issues are the main thing to look out for.

Dan

I must be slipping...I wrote this from memory but I would have sworn the post galv started in 1986 and the wiring harness issue ended late build date 1986.

My bad if I was confusing the changes to B230F and modern AC compressor.

B230F and modern AC compressor was in my 85 245 which was a life long Florida car with a terrible rust problem. The mounting for the CPS may be there as I think LH 2.4 was in the 740's prior to the 240's.
Dan

Ok, that is helpful.

There are 2 rust spots the size of a quarter, one on each rocker that I would take to a professional immediately for repair.

Didn't check the harness when I saw the car in person, so the condition is unknown until I can look again.

It's a straight 5 speed, no OD, so must be M47?

A/C has been converted to R134.

"Not a terrible year." And the rarer ignition system parts are giving me pause.

On the upside, are the reasons I mentioned above, and it's local. Just wondering if there's anything else specific to the 1987 year I should be wary of.

Ideally I could find a '92/'93 manual 245 with low miles, one-owner, etc. But surely there would be the competition and cost premium for that - not to mention how long it could take to find one?

Computers are very reliable and readily available on eBay. Hall sensor is reliable but somewhat difficult to replace, it would be good to get a working spare distributor to be safe.

Dan

How difficult would it be to upgrade the 87 with the 92 parts? Same motor.

I don't think you can mount a crank position sensor on the 87.

Dan

Actually this has been an odd point of discussion. All the 1987/88 AW7x trannies I have seen had the knock-out for CPS...others have reported differently. Not sure on M47's.

that being said, the swap is more about wiring than anything else. The harness from the newer car would need to be transferred but the IP cannot. I believe even without ABS, the 1992 would have the different tone wheel in the diff so your speedo may not work right.

Thank you all for your responses and helpful information.

I don't believe I'm up for an engine swap and transfer of the other systems. I'm interested in finding a 245 that meets most or all of my criteria that I can hop in and drive and not worry about big things for a while. I had too many problems with the '92, mostly rust related. The drive train has been super reliable as is to be expected.

I might be able to pick up this 1987 for less than $2k, which the more I think about it becomes a no-brainer given it's overall condition.