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Control arm bushing question 200 1985

Years ago, I replaced the control arm bushings on one of my 240's without tightening the rear nut with the bushing/nut under load. I had just tightened the nut with the arm off the car then just bolted everything up like I had removed it without any issues that I could tell. I did very well for years. I'm not replacing bushings on another 240 and just read somewhere of this load tightening procedure. I there any harm in not doing the load procedure? Thanks in advance.








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    Control arm bushing question 200 1985

    Well, after reading everyone's opinion here and my previous experience doing this years ago with no ill effects, I opted to tighten it up on the ground and install it without the pre load method. I'll post back if there are any issues down the road. Thanks for your thoughts.








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    Control arm bushing question 200 1985

    I replaced my bushing and control arms and know have a popping/clunking sound when take off and stop. Had trouble getting to the bushing bolt in rear of arm. What should they be torqued too?








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      Control arm bushing question 200 1985

      My 245 GL 1989 has had clunking from nearside. In the UK LHS in the gutter.

      I eventually found that you need a new 18/19mm nut from Volvo. This is a locknut, use once. It is slightly squashed. It finally solved the rattle.

      I think 18/19 (cant remember which) ring spanner is best. A long shank will need a lot of space. An H lift would be ideal for the lucky few. I think the torque must be similar the wheels nuts.

      BrianH








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    Control arm bushing question 200 1985

    not really.

    the idea of tightening under load is to make sure once the bushing is snug to the arm with the car sitting on the ground the bushing is not twisted in such a way the rubber is under constant stress wanting to straighten out which over time causes the rubber to split from the metal shell shortening the life of the bushing








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      Control arm bushing question 200 1985

      Sometimes it just isn't practical to get to the securing nuts with the suspension under load. Setting the bracket at an angle that will approximate the position under load and then installing the three mounting bolts is an alternate way of accomplishing the same thing. -- Dave








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        Control arm bushing question 200 1985

        I saw a local Volvo repair shop here in Dallas pre-tighten the rear bushings prior to installation, and because of this, decided to just do it myself. It needs to be bolted up, the car sitting on the ground, level, and I even let it sit for 24 hours and jumped up and down on the front bumper to make sure everything was squared up and at the normal (static) position, and THEN tightened them up. As someone else mentioned if you tighten them prior to installation, the bushing will be in constant stress because I seriously doubt the pre-installation "guess" as to position would be correct. There is indeed a reason the manual states to tighten them after they are loaded (something like that) Just my .02

        Scott in Dallas








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          Control arm bushing question 200 1985

          Scott, I'll see your .02cents--and raise you .02cents. I admire your quest for perfection (really-I'm not being facetious-I'm always amazed at the great wealth of knowledge here on the BB and the great lengths folks go to do it right) but the guestimate method works very well. If you actually measure the angle between fully extended and fully compressed you'll see there's very little difference. Unless the guess is grossly inaccurate through sheer incompetence it will be fine. There's always going to be some tension. After all the care you personally take--what happens when you plop down in the drivers seat? And even if you compensate for that - what about the guy you car pool with or when your in-laws are riding in the back seat? :-)
          As I wrote--sometimes it just isn't practical to do it by the book and there are acceptable alternatives-- the OP needn't obsess over it. -- Dave







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