|
|
|
Hi BB's,
I was just given a 93 wagon 240. (I already have a 93 wagon with about 300,000 miles). The question is: should I keep this as a parts car or is it worth fixing?
The car is in good shape - no rust, about 220,000 miles. It had been sitting for about a year.
I changed the oil, added fuel and additive to break down varnish. It started up quickly, ran at a slow idle, and then started smoking from the back of the engine - I suspect the rear seal is kaput and leaking badly. There is a hole in the exhaust pipe running to the catalytic converter - right where the two pipes become one. When I rev-ed it up it would backfire on the way down. Again I suspect that the backfire is due to the hole in the pipe. It would move in forward and reverse, but because of the low idle, tended to stall.
It does have one cool feature - the hideaway 3rd seat. Never seen that before.
Would the bad seal or hole in the pipe cause it to run poorly and idle slow? Any other obvious culprits?
Any input would be definitely appreciated!
Thanks,
John
|
|
-
|
|
|
Keep it.
Actually, my suggestion is to drive the 245 with 300k some more or until it dies, and in the meantime restore the other "newer" 245. Pop the head and rebuild it, maybe even redo the block... Spend some time/money rebuilding the new 245 (bushings, shocks/struts/mounts, etc.) and then you'll be set for life.
Good luck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I see there are 2 different styles of rear cam seals. One is a closed disk (with a back) the other is ring-style with no back. Does it make a difference which one I get?
thanks,
John
|
|
-
|
|
|
You got me there... The only ones I've used are the closed back type.
Somebody on here must know.
|
|
-
|
|
The open ring seal is for the 7/9 cars with the distributor on the back of the cam. The one he needs is just a plug, and if he still has the plug, he doesn't need a new one, just needs it cleaned off and sealed. If the crankcase pressure isn't being managed by the PCV system, then the retainer strap is a wise addition.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
If voting could really change things, it would be illegal.
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks, that helps. What kind of sealant should I use, and do I use it along the valve cover gasket as well?
|
|
-
|
|
|
"What kind of sealant should I use..."
That sounds like a personal question. :-)
My personal preference is ... whatever I have already and do not need to buy, which today is a fairly old bottle of Permatex 80057 Super "300" Form-A-Gasket Sealant. This works in the curves of the cam cover gasket too, which is the only place it is required.
RTV would work too, if you can keep from using too much, but I've gotten away from using this around the oiled part of the motor. If you choose RTV, you might as well select the formula that is kind to your oxygen sensor.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A Stranger is just a friend you haven't met yet.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I never used a sealant on the plug.
And no sealant is needed on the valve cover gasket. A new gasket on clean surfaces should seal just fine. Some folks put a little ATV on the corners where the gasket wraps around the cam saddle, but if you get the gasket to sit right and torque properly you shouldn't need to.
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks, that helps. What kind of sealant should I use, and do I use it along the valve cover gasket as well?
|
|
-
|
|
|
You don't say what skills/tools you have; if you do your own work/not; ....
I'd repair any 240 with a solid body. Here in OH, floor rust is usually what condemns them to scrap.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
I can do/have tools for basic stuff. Changing the rear cam seal is within my ability set. I leave welding to the pro's.
I cleaned out the flame trap, which was about 1/2 clogged up.
I will order the gasket, cam seal, new flame set and retaining plate from IPD today, and will report back accordingly!
One other thing. The previous owner drove the car about 30,000 miles over 8 years, and the timing belt was changed then (8 years ago). Can I get away without changing the belt for a while?
many thanks for you help.
John
|
|
-
|
|
|
You can look at the belt by removing the upper section. If age has taken a toll you'll see cracking and checking of the rubber. If you leave the belt in place just do a simple retensioning service -- turn the motor in normal direction of rotation a quarter turn from the crankshaft pulley - that will get the slack onto the tensioner side. Loosen the tensioner nut under the rubber plug enough to allow the tensioner to reset position--tighten nut and you're done. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
Yes, please follow other directives in response to your original post.
Imagine a budget of around 1500$ in parts and some hundreds of hours of work. Unless you can't perform all work so it operates safely and reliably, with low emissions, good fuel economy, and good performance.
I like the golden or champagne color on Volvo 240s. Though I'm more of a grey, silver, or blue Volvo color guy.
Yes, a hole in the header pipe, or a leak at any union before the catalytic converter, if the 02 sensor still operates well, upsets the balance between 02 air mass intake and extant 02 measured by the 02 sensor in the catalytic converter. A large hole anywhere upstream of the 02 sensor as you describe, with a reasonably well 02 sensor, sets the fuel to air ratio to max rich.
Such a hole, as you describe, indicates a corrosion failure along entire header pipe. Bad corrosion of the steel material can mean eventual structural failure of this exhaust pipe. Best to replace it, eventually. Pay mind to the seal between the exhaust manifold (or exhaust port, on fuel injected engines) output to the header pipe input. The three, usually 15 mm nuts (use six point hex socket), can loosen over time, causing an exhaust leak, and can induce gasket failure.
At the end of the header pipe, just upstream of the header pipe output to the catalytic converter input, there should be mechanical connection to a bracket assembly secured to the exhaust side of the bell housing to redblock engine bolts. This support carries the exhaust system run weight to the front rubber hangars of the front resonator, unless you have a hacked exhaust system.
Also, you should have the spin gasket assembly on that 1993 240 wagon. This union secures the header pipe output to the catalytic converter input. At the end of each pipe is a triangular-like piece of carbon plate steel. Usually, on the catalytic converter input side, are three stud bolts that point forward, meet with the holes on the triangular-like piece of carbon plate steel on the header pipe output. This union carrier far greater stresses than the design allows.
If the catalytic converter is in fine fettle, you can use a press or ask an auto machinist to press these feeble studs out. You then use quality steel hardware of a heavier gauge for high temperature applications. I'm not sure what kind of steel. Probably not a stainless. I forget.
I'll guess you have a Volvo 240 service manual? Bentley Volvo 240 Service manual bible may be best.
As you have a OBD-1, please, now, use the OBD-1 to check for fault codes. You'll get fault codes for lean or rich running, and probably others that deal with fuel control and fuel trim with exhaust and possible vacuum leaks. Be mindful of the preheat flap valve in the air filter box. If your state vehicle emissions (and safety inspection) do not visually inspect emission controls, remove the silver foil pipe, and runs under the fan shroud, that connects the exhaust port heat shield with the air filter. Else, the AMM/MAF cooks an fails in summer time heat (and even winter time if the engine is at operating temp.
The emission controls Bosch co-developed with Volvo, before all other auto manufactures, including all German auto makers, means emission control and performance and fuel economy and low emissions are wholly integral.
You'll want a whole sale of fluid inspections and replacement. The single most important thing you can do with moving vehicle is to stop it. So, how is the break fluid? Black, I'll bet. The Motiv or other brake fluid pressure bleeder is best. Or gravity bleed. Using the brake pedal to pump fluid out is utter folly.
You have the first year of the L-block on that final year of the Volvo 240. If the engine is original to the 1993 240 golden Volvo wagon you have, you have the t-belt roller round tooth sprockets. The timing belt is rated for 100k miles as is the tensioner pulley. Contitech (OEM belts on Volvo) makes a kit with the INA tensioner.
There is so much more.
So, to help you, from the Volvo 700/900/90 FAQ, hosted right here on your brickboard.com https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/
Review articles on Buy Used, Keeping it Rolling ... well, just review the entire FAQ and reference those articles you need now. Like OBD, sensors, and such. You would do well to search the brickboard for threads articles for issues you're dealing as you are now and will do so.
Too many 240/260 are now dead. In nearly all instances, unless from a Volvo 200-series ending crash, these Volvo automobile fail from abuse, neglect, and not driving them.
They suffer if you let them sit too long, even if they are in good shape.
Good catch on using a fuel system solvent to dissolve any fuel system plaque from the crappy ethanol in the gasoline we buy.
A stupid subsidy on a polluting scheme to make fuel from food. It makes more pollution and consumes more energy to make ethanol than any savings at the pump.
Inspect the remaining fluids, such as the aforementioned brake fluid, the transmission fluid (see FAQ and search articles), suspension bushes front and rear.
Closely inspect the strut mounts (Volvo PN 1272455). If the bushing material is pulling away from the center bearing assembly, or, if the bushing material contains concentric cracks around the center bearing assembly, replace these strut mounts with Volvo OEM ONLY. (We can't buy made in Germany Boge, who is the OEM for Volvo, until made in China overtakes the entire Volvo parts catalogue.) Do the same for the ball joints. You have some quality after market ball joints options. And the list goes on.
You have some manner of service records, yes, I hope?
Questions?
Hope that helps you begin your second 1993 Volvo 240 resurrection.
--
A Volvo 145 lives in Texas, somewheres. Courtesy: Cats and Volvos
(https://www.catsandvolvos.com)
--
Volvo 164: The Mightiest, most Powerful, most Beautiful Volvo Automobile Forever
|
|
-
|
|
|
From where I'm sitting, on the other side of the screen, I say yes!
Why parts?
70,000 miles less than the one you are keeping with lots more. No brainier for me!
That's many years of driving left in there to go plus you have had rehearsals on what goes wrong on these.
Oh my! No rust on it, is like a pretty smile with no dentist bills!
Has it been wrecked or something? Bad paint color like orange or what? '93 had decent colors.
You are talking cheap fixes. Changing all the fluids is nothing. Covert to a manual transmission would be the worse cost. Happiness comes with that manual, let along a selling feature.
The smoke at the back of the engine is a "standing up fix" to replace a valve cover gasket and the rear plug seal. Add a rear plate if it does not have one.
Better throw in the flame trap cleaning job too.
A Hole in the pipes can be fixed by mig welding in a sheet metal patch on there.
If you have some one else, who welds do it, you then would be out maybe twenty bucks.
Even if you bought the cheapest $100 wire welder, from Harbor Freight, you would still have the welder.
Another Sad thing too, would be to miss is all that fun of learning to hang grape seed sized balls of metal into that hole!
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Regarding whether or not a hole in the front pipe could affect running---the answer is yes--because the O2 sensor is downstream of the hole. And I'm with machine man as far as putting the car on the road. Seems to me--no matter what your age--between the two '93's you'll likely never need another car in your life. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
these are excellent suggestions. Never had to deal with a rear cam leak, most likely because I clean the flame trap. Think I will find some high-temp epoxy to fix the hole for the mean time - just to make sure that everything else works. Thanks again.
What is the "rear plate"? Is it at the back of the cam?
John
|
|
-
|
|
|
IPD (ipdusa.com), has a retainer you can buy to hold the seal and rear cam cap (plate) in place. You can also create your own retainer. Due to crankcase pressure, the cam cap/plate can blow out making the car undrivable for any distance. I suggest cleaning/replacing the whole breather system. Flame trap, hoses and the breather box. That should stop any more seal leaks.
|
|
-
|
|
|
also, it is painted a pale metallic gold. really really ugly.
|
|
-
|
|
|
You mean...they didn't try to pass it off as a Champagne color. (:-)
Phil
|
|
|
|
|
