Hey Brickboarders!

I want to still run the windows up and down for about 30 seconds after I have turned the key off.

I thought about the dome light delay switch on the 240's but it's time dependent on how long you leave the door open!

It might be alright that it would allow using the windows by just opening the drivers side door too!

I have thought about a hidden override switch too.

Anyone ever added an "adjustable time" delay OFF relay into the windows circuit? What did you use?

Does anyone know of what other model Volvo's use a headlight delay relay or other relay that work the same way?

Need an idea of the best place it in the wiring after the ignition switch.

All my other cars have manual windows and I can't seem to be able to train myself on this '91.

Usually, I have gotten out of the car and then realized that I have left one down or need to adjust them for a dog.

Thanks
Phil

Thanks guys!

I got just what I expected from the Wizards on the board. Nice responses from the very simple to a little more complex!

Art Benstein and Rico S are right on with their comments about timing and security not needed!

I have did what Trev29 suggests on my 78's radio. It was by accident years ago. It comes on with just the key in the switch. Thanks for reminding me of that!

Onkel Udo, brought the override switch back around and using a momentary one. I didn't think of that being a push on type. It could be tiny since I was wanting to use the existing systems relay.
I need to find a nifty place for something like that to give up some automation.

I want to thank Amarin for the link to the pluse signal timer. The pulse part has me thinking it's a digital output for digital circuits. Though I t might be too "new age" for me to understand.

I saw this one just below the one Amarin sent and was just as reasonably priced as well! It has a heavy duty relay built on the board and would fit this and many other projects

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-Count-Down-Relay-Timer-Delay-Turning-Off-Unit-under-Control-/331590492461?tfrom=231659963555&tpos=top&ttype=price&talgo=undefined

I have another idea for my house heat pumps air handler. I want to delay it turning off the fan while the indoor coil is either hot or cold for the seasons. I will look one for a 110 volt AC input & output on that site!

I'm so dated! I'm used to those industrial with a dial on top but they are not as cheap! Potter & Brumfield days!
I have two military looking ones with a range of 300 seconds. They are in my 40 year old junk boxes. Trouble is the are made with pins to plug into vacuum tube sockets! (:-)

I could still make one work but it might look ugly!
From that alone, someone would know I did it!

Phil

"I have another idea for my house heat pumps air handler. I want to delay it turning off the fan while the indoor coil is either hot or cold for the seasons. I will look one for a 110 volt AC input & output on that site! "

Find out if an "economizer" is available for your air handler. If so, it is already wired in such a way that you may just need to move some jumpers on the control board to accomplish this. Alternatively, there will be an accessory board that can be added and are usually pretty cheap.

Hi there

It's has been years since I have been into the control panel up there in the attic.
I only go up there to clean the washable filter every couple years.
Two people and one hypoallergenic 8 lb. dog.

I suspect the unit is a "contractor" 2.5 ton Carrier model and might be bare bones?

I will have to check out your ideas and see what controls it uses.

I use the heat pump for heating almost entirely which is from like late October to as late as May.

I use a wood stove for real cold days that get into the low thirties!
Below 47 degrees the heat pump becomes almost equal to electric heat furnaces.

My temperature, most the year, stays around 40 and up to 60 during winter. Use to get lots of rain. I mean lots. It's down 30% most years now.
I'm about three miles from the ocean. Lots of marine layer during the heat of summers.
I let the rest of the country and relatives cook, if I can!

I think my wife used the cooling mode once in 25 years here. It was 78 that afternoon, in the house. A rare sunny hot day! 74 can be normal and we light up a ceiling fan, if a breeze is slow.

With all that said, you can see why I have been really pushed into doing a modification. (:-)
I just know it is a little wasteful? Maybe to late to get any real payback by now?

Amarin's circuit board site looks intriguing. Looks easy and will teach me something in the process. Might bring me into a more modern world. Hmm, that could be scary as those front wheel drive repairs! (:-)

Thanks for your thoughts!

Phil

Just pull the window relay out and stuff a jumper into the 30 and 87 terminals on the socket (brown and red wires). You don't need no stinkin' timer.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you criticize him, you're a mile away and you have his shoes.

As usual, Art is right as rain.

Why add another level of unnecessary complexity for no reason? The problem I see in this modern world is that too many features are added to anything more complicated than a safety pin just because they can be added and added cheaply. The hallmark of good design is to use the fewest of elements to accomplish the end.

If you are concerned about security, who is going to steal a 240? Maybe a couple of hipsters in a moment of Pabst-induced bravado? Nah.

Rich (near Pittsburgh)

Hi Phil,

Long time no chat! This is a bit unusual request from you. I think you need an adjustable digital timer circuit not a delay circuit.

Anyway I saw this on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-999Minute-Circuit-Delay-Timer-Pulse-Signal-Controller-for-Solenoid-Valve-LED-/231659963555

Its a digital off timer. Timer time is adjustable. Needs any power between 5V to 30V so its suitable for car. One blue terminal with three connections - positive power, ground and signal. Another blue terminal with two connections - output + and output -.

Board wiring? Connect the positive power and ground direct to car battery. This should be ON at all times. The signal terminal should be connected to any power from your ignition switch. When ignition is switched off there is no more signal and this should START the timer.

The circuit's outputs (+ and -) should be wired to a multipurpose relay's coil (even though it claims able to supply up to 20amps). Let this relay powers your windows instead. This is for longevity. Maybe its just me being extra cautious.

When the timer STARTS the outputs should continue energising the relay's coil (terminal 85 and 86) for the set time. Wiring for the relay's power source (terminal 30) should come direct from battery and its output (terminal 87a and 87) should be directed to your power windows wiring. After set time is reached, the circuit turns off, relay turns off and your power window is back to its off state.

In summary - The board's outputs starts working even when ignition is ON thus relay is supplying your power windows as usual when driving before this, but timer not activated. Timer only activated when you turn ignition off thus continues supplying power to the relay so that you could still use the windows for the set time.

I don't have this circuit. This is what I gather from the description. Exact in-car wiring? Sorry can't help you with that as I only have 940. Other members could offer you more.

BTW I could use this circuit to power the blower fan for a while to dry off the evaporator (after driving) thus preventing AC odours - Volvo offers similar setup but time not adjustable. Or to power the headlights for a while to show the way at night. This is fun!

Regards,
Amir.

Does it have to be timed or do you just want to be able to raise and lower the windows with the engine off?

I've moved the wiring for the power windows at the fuse box so that the key just has to be in the ignition KP0 to operate the windows. Why? Because on occasion, I'd turn off the engine and realize the windows were still down. So I'd have to turn the key to operate the windows.

If memory serves me right, there are 2 fuses involved with the power windows. Take the wire at the fuse where the circuit is active when in KP1 and move it to a fuse which is active in KP0. I don't think you can use a circuit which is hot when the key is out of the ignition (eg. door locks) because there may be a constant draw on the battery.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

"I don't think you can use a circuit which is hot when the key is out of the ignition (eg. door locks) because there may be a constant draw on the battery."
On second thought, I think I didn't wire it to allow activity with the key out, is for safety reasons.

If the window is down and a dog (or child) has their head out the window and accidentally steps on the switch and there's no one around ...
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

"If the window is down and a dog (or child) has their head out the window and accidentally steps on the switch and there's no one around ... "

For a long time I've pondered the requirement for the relay, and this is the only argument for it I can think of. The switches are not easy to move but the presence of the key presumes responsibility for the car.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

The window fuse is on a different part of the ignition switch. You would need (momentary) all-ways on power. Example of this are radio memory, parking lights, emergency flashers.

This is a not insubstantial change as the timed relay you are looking for would need to sense the lack of current flow when you go to KPI, provide power from an always on fused circuit capable of handling the window motors. This would be a not insubstantial relay also. All this without back feeding any other items in the "Run" circuit that are active only in KPII.