My 83 240 Turbo will start,not easily and run as long as the small flame hose trap is removed from the intake air tube. If I remove the boot from the top of the fuel distributor it will run with the small hose connected. If I replace the boot the car will run good until I back off the accelerator then it is back to the same mess. The car used to run good but since then the motor has been out and it has been sitting for a few years. I was going to junk it but as it runs and is in pretty decent shape i want to keep it. ????

Years ago I had an '84 Turbo which I have since gotten rid of for a '93 (wish I hadn't...) and it had sat for several years when I got it. I disassembled and cleaned the fuel distributor and also needed a new fuel pump and was able to get it running nicely. The fuel dist. can be disassembled but be very careful of the thin sheet-metal stuff inside. I tore it apart and cleaned out all passages with B-12 and compressed air.

Let me see ... At best guess you are talking about a CIS system and not the LH system.

Both system are sensitive to sitting and allowing gas to go bad! A even bigger no-no for a CIS system.

A rubber boot over a fuel distributor landed me it this CIS direction.

It appears that the engine cannot get enough air to run properly with the flame trap or another air intake hose, allowing air to the engine.

The flap of the fuel distributor must rise with the slightest hint of breeze coming up from underneath.
OTHERWISE, you might as well stick a rag in the intake to choke it to death.

It sounds like it is stuck or sticking shut mechanically and not letting air into the engine.

You need to reach under the flap and check its motion. It should be very light and very balanced like without any sticking spots. The disc has to be absolutely in the center of the bore. No touching or any sticky gummy residues allowed there as well!

The control pressure regulator may be applying direct pump pressure to the piston that it is connected when the pumps are running.

A pressure gauge test procedure need to be used to diagnose that if it should be the case.
Adding the gauge system test will lead to popping fittings and will end up cleaning things.

This is leading to plugged screens and orifices!
Most are on the fuel distributor inlet and outlet side depending on its function. The gasoline pressure could be stuck on top of the air flaps piston.

The control pressure regulator is a preset device but varies the control pressure in relation to ambient air around the engine. There is also a heater that heat the CPR body to simulate the warming of the engine.

Your car may or may not have an auxiliary air valve that also stimulates cold idle speed. It to, gets tweaked to work together with the CPR. Just takes practice and patients.

Once set correctly they stay locked in for a very long time!

If you are more mechanical, than an electronic parts changer, you can feel your way into fixing this car on the cheap! I hope?

Clean first and get good fuel to the right places. After that, tweak or replace stuff only as a last resort!

I Hope I'm on the right trail for you!

Phil

Thanks for the help, gas tank was pumped out and new gas. It is a CIS. I removed the fuel distributor and cleaned it with carb cleaner although I did not take it all apart. I will clean it more thoroughly. perhaps something is still sicking or is blocked in there. I had the motor rebuilt and when the garage reinstalled they possibly didn't do it 100%. I just want to put antique tags on it and drive occasionally or to a car show. I know i get tired of seeing ALL muscle cars.

Pull the cover off the filter box and turn it on it's side. 1st thing is there any blockage of filter? 2nd do you have carb cleaner or brake cleaner,check to see if the plunger that comes out of the bottom of the fuel distributor is stuck. Use one of the cleaners to loosen so it moves freely up and down.