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Folks,
A variation of another way to replace the CPS on so equipped Volvo 240s with the Bosch EZK ignition (after the EZK versions with the in-distributor Hall-Effect sensor).
Placing a 60-90 pound piece of 4 x 8 plywood over the engine bay, with an end resting on the front sheet metal upper cross member, to which the grill and lighting sits under, is not an option. I'm over 6' 4" and weigh in at a sprightly 275-300 pounds myself. So, me legs dangling over may press down on the plastic works, radiator, and other sort of fragile works in there.
So, to say I'd bend some sheet metal is an understatement. I've tried this method, and I'm afraid I'd bend the upper front cross member, and as the plywood bends under my buttermilk-induced heftiness, well, I'm afraid of breaking stuff at the top of the engine. I stacked 2" x 6" planks over the strut towers, to not much relief.
So, this is how I do it, and have done it since then. In words and images ...
Be certain your exhaust hardware is well secured. The head gasket to exhaust manifold hardware is proper and the gaskets are in good condition, though I've done this for others with less than questionable exhaust hardware. Also, be certain the three sets of hardware that secures the exhaust manifold output, and gasket, to the header pipe input is also in fine fettle and properly torqued. These three nuts, even with locking hardware (lock washers) can loosen over time.
You are moving the engine forward about 1.5 to 3 inches using a scissor jack, or some method. So, you are pulling the exhaust forward, also.
You can optionally disconnect the front resonator hangers, or if a turbo exhaust, or sport turbo exhaust, you can remove the strap that secures to one of the two holes used to secure metal anchors to which the front resonator rubber round hangers secure.
A 1992 Volvo 240 GL with Bosch LH-3.1 and I dunno the EZK ignition version. 116? I get that confused.
The CPS cable was splitting, it was factory OEM with the yellow stripe near the connector end. Though the Bougicord factory OEM CPS revealed a blue foil liner where the outer sheath had failed from heat and oil.
Images courtesy of the most excellent Volvo image hosting method, available right here on your brickboard.com, through your account profile page. All secure and tidy. Even if only 640 x 640 pixels image size allowed.
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Disconnect failing CPS connector from wire harness connector. Inspect the end of the wire harness connector for dirt and corrosion. Clean if needed. Verify you do NOT lose the silicon seal on the wire harness side CPS cable connector! Use a little grease of some sort that inhibits corrosion, yet is not conductive. (Dielectric?)
(You may want to use a multimeter to check the new or replacement CPS. I forget which of the two contacts, yet should show like 180-220 ohms or so and that does not vary as you move the CPS cable or wiggle it.)
3. Disconnect 02 sensor cable. Remove the cable from the upper cable stay, let drape on the dry ground. You do not want to damage this cable. Please be mindful. You may want to remove the upper bulkhead mount 02 sensor cable stay. It's plastic and is easily damaged. It unscrews off the stud.
4. Using a scissor jack (Volvo 240 scissor jack here), as the AC lines through the bulkhead change through the years. Do not place the jack base on the panel secured to the bulkhead. Place the jack base on the unibody sheet metal bulkhead or firewall. Place cardboard under the jack base to limit damage to the finish.
Open, or raise the jack and test for secure mount. In this instance, the jack base rests on the bulkhead sheet metal. The jack head presses against the left side (North American passenger side) or header pipe runner facing away from the engine. On prior 240s, I could use a smaller scissor jack at the rear of the exhaust manifold and the unibody engine bay bulkhead sheet metal. If you have EGR, you you place the jack lower. Without EGR and on 91 and earlier, you have more room and options for placement.
Perhaps you folks have a Harbor Freight press or jack that'd do even better, yes? If so, please share. This process could use improvement, I know.
5. Open the jack. Test for placement. Got placement? Open more. The engine moves forward. You see the CPS / RPM Sensor retaining bolt.
Use a 10 mm hex. I use several extensions on a 3/8" ratchet drive. The shot is straight, no need for wobble extensions.
I loosen the retaining bolt. There was no washer under the bolt head. I'm able to to loosen and lift the bolt away using fingers. (Though I have exceptionally large hands, so this is still a bit tight for me.)
The CPS / RPM mount revealed! I use a rag and clean it up around there. The aft round rubber seal leaks a bit. Yes the PCV is clean. This engine gets Mobile 1 10W40. (This wee green 1992 240 GL beastie needs valve adjust, intake port gasket, throttle body gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket replacement, soon.)
6. Compare the old CPS sensor end with the replacement. I've found on new Bougicord CPS and used that I pulled from 740s/940s to have a different offset between the sensor and the bolt hole. The distance has increased between the sensor body and the bolt hole. So I file open the hole to shorten the distance between the sensor body and the bolt hole.
If you have problems aligning the bolt to secure the new sensor as I do each time, this can be a cause. So, always compare the old with the new. I always have to file open the this hole.
Wipe away all metal shavings.
7. The sensor body has a snug fit in the receiving sensor hole at the top of the transmission bell housing.
I'm able to twist the cable to align the the sensor body retainer screw hole with the receiving thread at the top of the bell housing. The hole has thread cut to the top. There is no chamfer to help you guide the threaded bolt end into the receiving fastener thread.
You can use your fingers to start it. I used a combo of the socket extension and one hand at the bolt to keep the CPS sensor ends aligned with the hole the bolts threads unto and secures. You mileage will vary. Better luck to you for those with smaller hands. Yes, we can use a socket with a magnetic charge, some butyl rubber, or something.
Just don't drop the bolt down the sensor hole. Avoid that at all costs!
Yet I got best results using fingers to place the bolt through the sensor end hole, placing the socket on extensions over the bolts, and fumbling until you have threaded the thing in there. Sorry, no images. I only have rudely, if loudly, stated expletives in cartoon bubbles to make it funny. (Not very funny, really.)
8. After securing the CPS sensor, guide the cable up and out. Drape the cable aside safely.
9. Close (lower) the scissor jack. As it closes, keep a hand on it. You may be able to turn the jack by hand closed. The Volvo scissor jack was in no way damaged. The jack saddle did remained unchanged. Some may be concerned the jack saddle may close under the force. I'd not encountered such a problem.
10. Reconnect the upper 02 sensor cable stay. Bring up the 02 sensor cable. Verify the 02 sensor cable remains secure in the lower 02 sensor cable stay. Use a mirror or get under the chassis so lifted and safely secure on mounts or jacks.
11. Route or dress the new CPS cable as appropriate to limit chafing, waving or gyrating of the CPS cable long run, such as air turbulence and engine motion, from the CPS sensor body to a point where you secure the cable or other incidental contact. On later 700 and 900, there is a plastic clip to secure the CPS cable to the top of the dipstick tube, and then layer into wire harness as appropriate.
(The old cable had been dressed as the factory around the lower coolant line that secures to the heater control valve connectors. It had chafed through the outer sheath where the CPS cable rubbed against the rough coolant line exterior, so, many breaches in the outer sheath I could not see before extraction.)
12. After dressing the CPS cable, reconnect the new CPS connector to the wire harness. Though before hand, check the wire harness connector for filth and corrosion, clean. Verify you did not lose the silicon seal on the wire harness side op the CPS cable connector. Maybe use a corrosion inhibiting dielectric compound or grease.
And ...
While you're at it, have you replaced the missing thermal compound between your power stage and the heat sink it sits on. Better to do this now than later. The power stage on my 1990 240 DL li'l red Wagon was so corroded that one of the two machine screws that secures the power stage IC amplifier to the aluminum heat sink broke. I have spare, and am dressing all of them up.
Hope that helps you folks on your Happy Saturday.
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Off topic:
My time in Vancouver, WA now over, and probably ain't gonna get that tech writer job here, we're taking the show in the road to MN-state.
Spokane, WA is an evil dung heap of the height of all corruption you could ever imagine across the entire USA. Tell all your friends to stay far, far, far away from this degenerate dung heap. I mean, war crimes EVIL! Stay AWAY! Don't stop in. Just pass through the region if so. Evil, Evil, Evil incarnate resides there.
Spokane, WA home of the stupid Z-Nation SyFy teevee series production. Profit for fascists.
Some of you know my feelings about St. Louis, MO. St. Louis, MO, in spite of all the problems it has, and has had in recent years, is wholly preferable.
So, maybe back to MO-state. My mother would welcome me with open arms. (Joan Crawford may be a better mother, to give you context.)
And now, some kitty and volvo images, cause we love Volvos, www.brickboard.com, kitties, and we are always grateful we have a wwww.brickboard.com.
When embedding links from image sharing sites, please be sure you can use encryption from those site (https and not merely http).
('Cept catsandvolvos.com does not encrypt. These images are hosted tumbler.com, and these domains servers will accept encryption.)
Y images? 'Cause these image bring more traffic to brickboard.com, more revenue for the brickboard. And I love Volvos and kitties!
http://catsandvolvos.com/
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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Clip Secures CPS/RPM Sensor Cable to Oil Dipstick Tube on 700/900. Useful on 240, also, to limit CPS/RPM sensor cable movement before you dress, or layer in, the CPS/RPM sensor cable into the wire harness along the firewall and secure the sensor cable and wire harness cable connectors together.
The clip is about two decades old, so this ABS plastic may be somewhat brittle. Also, the two clip ends move, or rotate, independently of each other.
So, I'd not fingered out a way to make use of it. The 240 firewall is so much closer to the engine rear, one may not need it.
Just keep some CPS/RPM sensor spares with you or on your shelf. The new Bougicourd offerings, what is supposed to be OEM during RWD Volvo model manufacturing era that used these, have problems are reported on this board.
Our Art B. has success with another brand of CPS/RPM cable for Volvo with Bosch LH 2.4+/EZK engine control. I'm not sure the brand. I'll try and find Art B.'s post and post back here.
Clip Secures CPS/RPM Sensor Cable to Oil Dipstick Tube on 700/900. May Be Useful in 1989+ LH-2.4+/EZK on 240. I dunno.
cheers,
Minor Volvo 240 Repair Sat-Your-Day Morns with Flavory-Savory Bagels and Tea?
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Oregon Volvo Tuners! www.ovt.org. Tuning up them Volvos extra specially good in Oregon USA and BEYOND!!!!! OVT Forever!!!!!! (Been since like the late 1980s for me. Group Volvo drives to some diner in Astoria going West on the highway 26. Or end up getting lost in Beaverton, Oregon for hours trying to find your way back to Milwaukee, OR with AAA maps in hand in 1989!)
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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Here's what you need:
http://www.viktobult.se/shop/30720/art20/h5918/21485918-origpic-1b8b6b.jpg
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (fixed the ignition - now back to the brakes again)
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jwalker,
Thank you most kindly. Sorry to go on so. Probably did not need my handle in the title. I was hopped up and good to go. A little ego may have crept in.
Dedciated, as always, to the great Assar Thorvald Nathanael Gabrielsson and Erik Gustaf Larson, and them Volvo engines and drive trains and all. Industry Captains with long term global vision and investment. Doing good and creating value for everyone.
Yet please keep in mind the caveats I mention.
It was working on the 700/900 series, since you 700/900 folks have all the room inside that 700/900 engine may, so you get more of that redblock beauty at a glance.
So, just a minor and temporary adjust, and voila! CPS/RPM sensor replaced!
And that 1992 240 GL just pounds the pavement with utter impunity. Though I want to replace the exhaust with something quieter. The vibration the turbo exhaust delivers may be great as in like a short term massage in them black hide leather seats (gotta tie up seat bottom and seat back webbing). But I don't like leather for seats. The Corona rims, costing 6$ a pirce, are not worth a rehab at 150$ a piece. So, lookin' for some steelies. 14". I got the two-piece classic hub caps with the 'V' at teh center piece ready to go. Michelins or Conti tires, please.
Sorry to go on. Earl grey tea. Gotta clean out the cars, and start to relocate to elsewhere.
Thank you,
Ginger (Powder) and Aspirin Relieves the Joint Inflammation
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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I imagine this would help, huh?!?!?!?!
You can find these at https://www.viktobult.se/
What are these called?
Thank you!!!!
Maybe someone can rent these wherever you are?
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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But would it hold your weight? I am at 220lbs, or so depending on the time of year, and that small guy in the picture looks like he is less than 150lbs.
Yes, MN is the most western state of the 'rust belt'. The lakes and streams are turning salty from the massive amounts of road salt. Even my 1995 has rust spots, but mostly due to owner neglect.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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Hiya KlausC,
Thank you.
I dunno. Like Chris Mullet says, it called a top side creeper.
Yeah, it'd have to be more robust to lift my slovenly self.
The "Land of 10,000 Lakes" state, MN, are turning salty? Really?
I remember reading stuff about how the St. Louis region is notorious for that, for using massive salt (as rock salt and brine the DOTs in the area lay down) and it runs into the Missouri, Meramec, and Mississippi, and other streams. The argument was or is to the effect that dilution in the rivers is how it "goes away" or ameliorates.
Yet the same argument is made for water resources used to produce potable water in Milwaukee, WA. Part of their water resources comes through an aquifer that has some radioactivity. Yet, through blending, I guess, the radium(?) is diluted to below what is safe? I read that in the jsonline dot com, the Milwaukee big city daily. The Milwaukee Journal-Sentinel turns over more stories daily from their reporter-writer, and not just through news media feed like the not entirely upstanding AP and Reuters.
The Minneapolis Star-Tribune is also good, but I am not so fancy with the new template. When the on-line portion of U.S. big city daily newspapers do that, they usually concise with layoffs or reporter-writers, it seems, like the San Francisco Chronicle sfgate dot com; what used to be a great newspaper as the "Voice of the West". Rather a unified homogenized news media voice today.
While what ice melt the Twin-Cities DOT lays down for Winter-time, it begs the question as all Great Lakes are so suffering. Like the cyanogenic or something algae or bacteria that infect the waters off of Toledo, OH.
All of the cities around the great lakes exhaust (usually) their processed effluent into the great lake they sit on, and they bring in water for processing to make it potable. Most of these cities, if not all, like St. Louis, have a single, unified sewer system. So, in times of torrential precipitation, like you Midwest folks have endured, as the biosphere is thermally imbalanced, you get the salt and everything, well unprocessed, into the stream and lakes.
The theory was that these lakes have a natural gyre (clockwise or counter?). So, the effluent is released downstream of the water inlet towers. The cyano whatever that is demonstrates the water in and effluent out strategy may not be best long term as the biosphere warms.
Yet you have huge geologic formations under your feets, so one wonders how more dependent these great lakes cities will be on their wells, that are usually quite shallow, as they are here in Spokane, WA.
Welp, your 1995 850 Turbo is twenty years old. You got that sort of recently, yes KlausC? So the prior owners may not have been too mindful to rinse under the unibody at the self-service car wash when it was all salty pretzel in the Twin Cities snow and saltiness. Or mindfully replenishing the undercoating on body panels, suspension pieces, and such.
It's the blind compartments, like the rocker panels. Check out Waxoyl. They may have a best solution, through I dunno what prep you have to do. Also, you may have to be coy, as Waxoyl sells to "professionals" as it is rather noxious, the volatile compounds, at the outset during application. Waxoyl has or integregrates with tools used to spray bind compartments at 360°.
Also, while I'd not done it, if you run braided steel cable between the exhaust and unibody, after the last conductive metal hanger, all the way to the last union, like where the tail pipe secure to the final muffler or resonator, the connection to ground may slow the rusting of the exhaust. But the braided section have to be forgiving in the event of a crash or something, so if the exhaust gets ripped away, you don't have an exhaust section puncturing the floor board. Maybe a copper alloy braided cable? I think they do this on Mercedes and Bentleys at one time. I can't recall.
If you use urethane color paint, don't use enamel clear coat over it. That windshield pan-pinch weld rust repair of the 1992 240 GL I did in 2007 is failing. All cold rust treatment with the POR-15. That went well. The advice from the NAPA Auto Paint store -- not so good. The urethane paint is a pretty ok color match, but the metallic reflective bits seemed smaller.
Ok, back to work.
Sorry to go on so.
Thank you,
MacDuff loving all them Volvos and the Volvo-loving Volvo-owners right here on your brickboard.com!
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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I think sometimes they are referred to as a "topside creeper". (That's not the old guy that lives on the north side of town.)
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (fixed the ignition - now back to the brakes again)
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Thank you.
I did not know such tools existed! Very cool!
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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Hi Kitty,
Well done my friend. Very good! :)
I use an iphone to take pictures. It's all about the light. If you can't get enough light inside of the engine compartment, get a large white plastic, fabric or anything to bounce more light into it.
My 87 Volvo runs well but it doesn't look good. It's getting beat up. Unlike Ken's brick*, it's not well kept by any means.
My guess was right, You are a little older than I am. Who listen to the Cure? :) However, I didn't expect you to be that tall.
Have a great weekend, rest now kitty.
* https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1618411/220/240/260/280/selling_car.html
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Uncle Swedish Baklava,
Thank you so kindly.
I was sort of tricked walking out of the winterview Thursday. The HR Rep was rather final in her disapproval of me. The hiring manager seemed interested. Also, at the short interview end, the HR person tells me it is a two-step interview (tricked). I'm supposed to contact them, she says, like tomorrow, so I can get the offical go to hell rejection email.
I mean, it's only a job in a West Coast city. Been trying since like 1992 while at Chico State. In Vancouver, WA and adjacent environs, you CAN own a Volvo 240. Though in one day I counted only 14-18 Volvo 240s. In 1989, in Portland and other West Coast cities, it was ALL Volvo. I was going CRAZY, then. It was Volvo Nirvana!
So, while I'm sure I'm done with this tech writer jobby-job opportune, I would have not come in all hopped up on the funky earl grey tea and hunny and milk goofer. Or it was those little Starbuck's frappuccino coffee drinks you get in them glass bottles that make road tipping so much better. They could be less sweet, yet use cane sugar and not nasty corn syrup.
Oooph, I studied their products and systems and the greater marketplace they serve and compete in. It is financial systems, and I want to return. Nuts and bolts are my hobby (on my Volvos 240) and I want to join the Oregon Volvo Tuners (www.ovt.org). I'm sick and tired of industrial design, manufacturing engineering. I'm excellent at it, yet such causality, writing in the psychomotor domain day after day (assembly docs [these are generally called 'work instructions'; how condescending to the assembly technicians, and field install and maintenance guides). Also, the dating, I'm told, in Portland / Vancouver is so much better than any prior place I'd been in. I'd like to have a real gal-pal. My well-being needs others to care for. Hugs help.
I felt the need to do this for some time since I'm in no way as lithe as our Uncle Art B. and folks that can use the plywood engine bay cover to scramble on to, and easily withdraw and replace using a 10 mm spanner.
I did this method first on an LH 2.4 equipped Volvo 240, yet the poor wee 1989 or 1990 240 beastie had tired, sad, and sagging motor mounts and transmission mount. I think the right side (as you sit in the car) mount was broken, as usual, and it was well oil caked grimy nasty. Poor old Volvo 240. Made me sad. You just want to care for them and seem them happy, them RWD Volvos marching along the roadways safely with the crappy, new hackable cars.
The back of the engine was about touching the firewall on this 240. It was an auto transmission. I told the owner we could tackle these, too, yet it became apparent he merely wanted me to do the work for him for free. (I cleaned the PCV for him and some other odds n' ends), fixed some vacuum lines using my personal parts collection. He wanted me to do a complete brake job from fluid flush to brake pads and rotors. I'm not bonded in any way, so I said no like 20 times.
All three of my 240s are also suffering. No garage. Can't take care of them. I need to inspect and treat the rear axles and more.
These 240s are now almost like going over to your high school friend's house in 1981, and his dad has a classic 1955 Chevy Bell Air or 1939 Cadillac, and he laments all the systems, piping, and other stuff that needs treatment or replacement to keep it going.
I tried the method using the 4 X 8 and trimmed down plywood boards, but the board bent, and I'm at my knees protrude past the front cross member that has the hood latch, Stuff was moving around so I aborted. The CPS (RPM) sensor cable was showing shiny foil.
So, there was a scissor jack after I'd scrambled under his raised car for a look at stuff. It was awful. All greasy, the undercoating gone, no care.
I have no mobile device like that. No cell phone. No broadband. I have a Sony DSC-S30 and DCS-S50 cameras. The offset flash from front the objective lens makes this difficult. So, in image processing, I crank up the gamma. It was morning, the sun was to the east, and the front end of the Volvo 240 pointed west on the asphalt parking lot. So, much contrast these camera cannot handle.
Doubtful my 1950 Kodak Retina cameras would do better. Yet I have flash slaves and several older Vivitar 181/281 flashes I rebuilt with new NiCad batteries. So, next time, I'll try flashes connected to a flash slave that will respond when the digital camera flash, well, flashes.
Driving that 1992 240 GL with the iPd turbo exhaust is like wrasslin' some big truck without power steering. (Power steering has failed on this car. Hit the left front wheel on a curb and damage teh power steering like seven years ago. The rack is fine, though with new inner and outer tie rods.) The rumbling exhaust annoys. And the driver seat back adjust does not work well. There you go. Do not like the leather seats at all. Likes the cloth seats.
So, off to Minneapolis I go. Where you'll find KlausC and our Uncle Jarrod Stenberg.
Sick and tired of the west. The people suck here. You have Volvo 240s and other cool older cars, yet they are all neglected, until emissions test time comes around, and than, still they neglect them. And Spokane, WA is an evil hell hole.
Welp, new rear Bilsetin Touring shocks for the rumbley 1992 240 GL, and I have a fuel issue with the 1990 240 DL li'l red wagon, and .....
Yet, going east, I'll probably divest my self of all things Volvo. Minnesota is in the rust belt, I guess.
Not been on any road trips, save for job interviews in the last like 25 years. Though I'd meet some worthy, quality people to hang with out West. Ho-ho.
Thank you,
MacDuff.
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity
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