I removed the alternator to replace the bushings and cracked the darn power insulator. The insulator base is intact and I think I can "make shift repair" the broken part of the insulator with JB or maybe just silicone. The arc distance I think is too great even though the nut is close to ground but I would be concerned with electrical creeping when the broken surface gets dirty. Maybe JB weld the plastic insulator back on and goop on some silicone around it.

The make shift repairs you find: There was a perfectly sized washer under the front alternator mount bushing, odd for Volvo to put this in, "ahhh", said I 30 seconds later after I inspected the original bushing, it was added as a fast repair to help straighten the belt alignment.

Right or wrong the these two bushing will be now be aluminum. (Another makeshift repair?) The adjuster mount with the third bushing will remain rubber due to almost no deformation. Say I'm wrong, I'll use poly, but for now all I have is alum and rubber.

Time to replace the brushes too. Looking for an old post I remember.

Then to yet another water pump mushroom gasket.

Tom

PS,the Brickboard search function does not work for me but google search does. Used "Brickboard volvo 240 alternator brushes replacement" as the search criteria. I could have added "RWD - " Thanks again Art B.

I had to get this done for an annual inspection due at end of the month. All done except for the brushes because I did not want to take a chance screwing up the soldering but now that time is on my side I can attempt soldering in the new ones. If that fails due to excessive heat/solder I can order a new regulator or visit a salvage yard.

The areas the aluminum bushing went into has some minor corrosion and had to get cleaned up with sandpaper before they slid in. No noticeable vibration detected with the two aluminum bushings but I have not driving over 35MPH.

De-glazed the alt pulley and now the can of anti-squeal potion will go to the back of the shelf.

Tom

if its within your means buy a good used alternator and carry your broken one in the trunk

Between rubber and aluminum, I would choose the rubber. But you will be replacing it (and your water pump donut) if the oil spray is a factor. Also, I think these isolators deform more quickly when the belts get glazed, the pulley shines up, and we crank down on the tension to compensate. Aluminum seems to say "I give up," which is perfectly understandable. This three-pulley belt arrangement was one design, done before cars needed 80 and 100 amps, which the 7/9 series took care of.

Oh, on the broken insulator, don't worry about leakage, just be concerned it is strong enough to support the torque needed to maintain a good connection on the B+. Or look for one in the junkyard when you can. Also try http://aspwholesale.com.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Grandchildren are God's reward for not killing your own children.