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how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

hi sages- this may seem like a kindergarten level question, but how long should you wait to allow aluminum cylinder heads to cool down before removing spark plugs? most mechanics books say to let it cool down so you dont strip soft threads. my merc and the 245 92 have aluminum cylinder heads. coincidentally all my plug jobs were done early next morning so i never thought about it . thanks tons oldduke








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    how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

    Click and Clack say - If you leave your plugs in for 100k miles, they are in there FOREVER!

    They should be pulled out, checked, and re-installed at least every two years.








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      how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

      hi james a- wow never heard that advice. seems most heads today are aluminum. all plugs i have seen are steel. is your concern long term galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals? many newer cars of various makes specify 100k plug changes. havent seen on the board at least in the last 4 years problems with plugs seizing to the aluminum head and ripping the threads, but it sounds possible. just installed new plugs in a merc marquis 01 which had almost 100k and were the originals.they were worn and the gap had expanded to about .065. spec calls for .054. noticed no damaged threads, installed cold and used anti seize. what say you? thanks tons oldduke








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    how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

    I've always done the first turn with the socket when the engine was still warm, just to get them loose, then waited till I could touch the heads before removing. Always installed cold. Best opportunity to cross thread is turning new plugs into a hot and therefore malleable aluminum head.








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      how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

      hi sages- if i discern the answers correctly, i will wait until the head and exhaust manifold is touchable without a burned hand. will be careful not to tighten new plugs too tight. thanks tons oldduke








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    how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

    Oldduke, I like to wait until the exhaust manifold won't burn my wrist if I nudge it. An electric fan is useful if the owner of the car is also waiting.
    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    They say you can do anything in international waters.
    That's why I filled my hot tub with international water.








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    how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

    Remove the plugs when the engine is warm if you have any doubts about stripping the threads. But if you have always done it in the morning on a cold engine and have changed your plugs in the last 30,000 miles, I'd say you are good to go.

    A little penetrating oil a day or two before might help, but a light touch and tightening them just a thoughtsworth usually seems to work. I like a little never sieze on spark plug threads for my piece of mind.

    Besides, if you rip the threads out, it was time for a helicoil anyway. I think most theads get buggered on installation or if the plugs have been left in for 100,000 miles.

    Greg








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      how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

      hi sages- thank you all for your interesting insights. plugs left in for 100k may or may not be a problem, especially since many new cars specify 100k plug changes. my original question though. does anyone have an opinion on how long you should allow the engine to cool before r and r of the plugs? thanks oldduke








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        how long to cool off before doing sparkplugs in aluminum cylinder heads

        See the answers above for insights on the removal/installation question. As for spark plug longevity, it depends entirely on the plug and tip design. Normal plugs show appreciable tip wear and gap expansion at 30k miles. Plugs with platinum or iridium tips show much less wear and can indeed last for 100k miles without the gap changing materially, which is the whole point. All plugs should be installed with a little antiseize on the threads to ease removal and limit the potential of steel plug threads damaging aluminum block threads.








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    The spark plugs won't be as tight when it's hot. They get tighter when cold....

    Install them cold. Remove them hot.

    A physics/mechanical engineering department once posted an answer to the question, does a hole in a piece of metal get smaller or bigger when the metal is heated, in case you're wondering -- you can google a search for the technical explanation.








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      The spark plugs won't be as tight when it's hot. They get tighter when cold....

      Hi,

      It's not quite as simple as that. Holes enlarge only if they're in a mass that is free to expand in all directions. If they're constrained, as a cylinder head is with bolts, they may become smaller. You can verify this by putting a piece of metal with a hole into your vice and heating it. The hole will expand in the direction that's parallel to the vice jaws, and contract in the perpendicular direction, becoming distorted. If it's constrained in all 4 directions, the hole will stay round but be smaller.

      I know that the cast iron holding the bolts also expands, but aluminum expands at twice the rate of cast iron, so there is constraint. The same principle can be used to explain why aluminum cylinder heads warp so easily.

      Other factors to consider are that the spark plugs expand when heated, and that aluminum looses strength much more quickly than steel as the temperature increases.

      I think the best argument for taking spark plugs in and out cold is that the threads on both were cut at room temperature, and that's when they should mate the best. Because steel and aluminum expand at different rates, the higher the temperature, the poorer the fit. This causes wear, mostly on the softer aluminum, and eventual stripping.

      Peter








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        I used that advice and it worked ....

        I had an opportunity to put that physics department's advice to work -- I had bought a used 240 and went about doing the usual tune-up stuff ... then I found the sparkplugs wouldn't turn. Concerned about damaging their threads by forcing them (as well as fearing that the previous owner possibly ruined the threads), I started up and ran the engine for a while. Then the plugs came out easily -- a big relief, no thread damage, but just unnecessarily overtightened.

        Of course, I always put a little antiseize on their threads, along with other threaded pieces (I even put it under the distributor's rotor so I can lift it out easily -- you wouldn't believe how many folks have reported having trouble with that), but I had to start at square one with this newly acquired car.







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