It's a 1990 780 baratone coupe turbo 4 cyl volvo
I need to know if you have to release any pressure on this fuel pump and where and how to do it before it's replaced if anyone could help me please.

http://volvobertone.proboards.com/

Found the bookmark. Hope that helps you.
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The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity

Imm new to this how do I view the bookmark on here and paste r what can I do

He means he found his bookmark and posted the link. You have to highlight the link and open it in another tab or window. Nobody can post live links here unless they know how to go through some fancy HTML stuff.
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1992 745, >500k km

If you have waited a few hours since the last start attempt, the pressure will be minimal or none.

That said, as these pumps tend to last 250K + if the car does not site of extended periods or sun with the in-tank pump non-functional for long periods of time, what makes you believe it needs replaced? Bad fuses and fuel pump relays cause a lot of pumps to be replaced.

Because when they put another relay fuel pump fuse in it just burned out and a mechanic said the pump was bad mr know it all

I hope that was intended as tongue in cheek because you came to this board for our collective knowledge. Snarkyness is not a common trait here as we are all trying to meet a common goal of keeping our cars running.

A new fuse "burning up" is very unlikely to be the pump itself. The pumps do not draw enough amps even when failing to blow fuse....most of the time. It is normally a and issue between that fuse and the pump.

When an external main pump fails it tends stop spinning which draws mostly no amps. The wiring shorting to ground for example would cause a fuse to immediately blow. A terribly high resistance between the ground and the pump would cause the fuse to blow but usually much more slowly.

Sorry folks not trying to be mean r a smartass to anyone I myself have had problems with my own volvo but realize that all of them r not the same and my friends car is the one with the fuel pump problem. I love this forum!!

You are nicer than I am.

"a mechanic said..." Alrighty then, let's all go back to kindergarten and play in the sand.

Dear OP; Onk is one of the most knowledgeable people on here, about these cars. The cars have some unique design features that are not quite the same as other brands, and they have some quirks that many here have spent a lot of time learning about. Also, your car is one of approx 8500 ever made, world wide,in its entire production life of 5 years. It'd be nice to see a considerate attitude, as we share thoughts and experience.

I do now, and I always will give everyone the benefit of the doubt on something like this.

Great example is the infamous "the fuses are fine" comment. I will always describe a specific procedure that is the only way I can accept that specific statement and many a personal (direct or indirect) issue with the 240 ceramic and brass fuses and the Volvo fuse clips that hold them. Many 740 owners have the same experiences with relay sockets and grounding bars.

FYI, much of my knowledge is second-hand from folks like Art B, Don Foster, and Pagenda. I have just been here a long time and absorb knowledge like a sponge when I am interested.

"Great example is the infamous 'the fuses are fine' comment."

Had to laugh. I can't think of an assertion used by posters on the 240 forum, which is more often wrong than this one. I even developed a graphic for it.



Then, to set apart from one another those 240 fuses that aren't fine:



But the blade fuses of the type used in the 7/9 cars have equivalent failures which can cause grizzled old electrical troubleshooters to say "aw shucks" (or sumpin like dat) when they finally pin down the intermittent -- like metal fatigue in the element right where you can't see it easily. Fact is, it is so hard to see, the aforementioned grizzled one sent me the example and I haven't yet figured out how to photograph it.

Anyhow, the idea one can troubleshoot electricity by visually inspecting parts-pieces gets people from A to B often enough there's sudden consternation when the method inevitably fails them.

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Art Benstein near Baltimore

How to Ask Smart Questions

but jerry what about if you have sensitive feelings which are easily hurt by a malodorous critique? phat regards oldduke

"burned out"? What burned out?

Check for voltage at the connector below the vehicle to make sure it is getting 12 VDC. You can also check current draw at the fuses. See the FAQ.

When the pump went out on my 1990 wagon, it would die and coast like lack of fuel and pick back up until it got worse.

You may need to pick up the cage and all the bolts that attaches it to the car from the dealer. Mine was pretty rusted. It was a reasonable price.
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Paul NW Indiana '89 744 Turbo 180K/ '90 745 turbo 145K

If you have a schrader valve on the the fuel injector rail, you can release any residual pressure that is remaining in the line. Hold a rag over the nozzle as you poke the valve stem. Or you can usually just crack the fitting loose at the pump/filter and catch any fuel that squirts out with good-size rag. Have good fitting wrenches for the fittings at the pump as they always seem to be tighter than all get-out.