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Chasing a clunk 200

Well I swapped the Pesky bush on the axle but after , though it was perhaps a bit better there was still a clunk on the dirt road.
So today I swapped the left front strut. That definitely eliminated quite a few noises but there was still a clunk.
So I swapped the strut that has two eyes and goes from top of the axle forward to the body. The bushes in this were shot and the replacement was OK.
Well it seemed to reduce the noises but then, there they were, just like I'd done nothing.
Well almost. Definitely has reduced but definitely still there somewhere.
I've put a good stabilizer bar bush in as well.
The rear shocker is a bit ordinary so tomorrow I will swap that.
If the noise is still there after that it's going to stay there. I have no more clues.
Maybe Volvos just do this on dirt roads?








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    Chasing a clunk 200

    Phil,
    Thanks for a most interesting reply. It does sound exactly at that spot.
    I actually haven't replaced the front insert, merely swapped a strut from my parts car which of course is unknown, but before I did that there was a constant chattering rattle from the front which now is gone.
    Now the noise is much lower and less frequent, sounding very much like that wishbone moving when persuaded by the occasional bump on the dirt.
    Yes I live on a dirt road of which there is about 10k's before I get to the tar.
    But the car once sorted goes back to my son who lives in town.It will then only get dirt treatment when he comes to visit.
    Those bushes seem pretty good with plenty of spring when the strut was out, that is they hang in position because they've been tensioned with the weight of the car on them. They don't look perished either so yes I'll give that idea a try.
    Cheers,
    Dan








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      Chasing a clunk 200

      I understand your thoughts on that rear bushing of the A arm.

      Mine seemed tight too.

      The play or noise comes from the stud in the bushing being able to to move front to back as well as round and round in the bushing sleeve.

      It's not much. Maybe a quarter turn on the nut.

      Where I screwed up was when I was doing my struts.
      The arm held its self up so tight that I could not get the arm to drop far enough to get the strut out. Like an inch was all I needed to clear the spring out of the tower so I loosened both ends.
      I did not have to do that on the right side of the car.

      From that moment on clunk. I had to retighten it twice.

      Hence, I removed it to find out how loose the nut got as it came off completely.

      That nut looks like it was hit by a Photon Ray from a Starship with all the craters I put in it now! (-:)

      Your nut under there does not appear all that loose.

      From the way mine spun off, I think the stud is a little undersized from the factory. It might explain why the arm was so tight.
      I would have changed the impinged nut, if I had one at the time, just to see which was worn or made wrong.
      But I finally got the clunk stopped or you might say, fixed. (-:)

      I advise you to consider the cheat to double the length of your wrenches. Either by pipe or by hooking another one end to end to get that bugger tight enough.

      It's a tight place it there and my socket fitting collage of tools won't fit in there.

      Good luck.
      I hope working up in there takes that clunk away for ya!

      Phil








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        Chasing a clunk 200

        The rear position of the control arm is the only bushing that has failed on all 5 - 240's I have owned so it is likely they are no good on yours. I use poly bushings at this location because of the beating they take. Burn out the old rubber and slide the new bushings in the old metal housing still installed on the control arm.

        Dan








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    Chasing a clunk 200

    It looks to me, from what I read, is that you worked on the front strut and replaced the cartridge.

    Then you changed out the bushings on rear axle torque rods. This along with the trail arm bushings should have removed all the noise from back there.

    So I am wondering, about the clunk must be coming from the front again? You said that things got better but a clunk on a dirt road.

    You must drive one of those often?

    I am starting to think, that the lower A arm bushings, may have had a little more than normal vibrations.

    If the bushings look to be intact, especially the rear one, you might want to tighten the rearward nut.
    The only thing that keeps it tight is its interference fit on the stud.
    It may look tight but I have found out, if that nut, has ever been loosen or removed, it can loosen again.

    I ended up removing the nut entirely to find out how loose it can get.
    I then squeezed and punched the threads to restore the tight fit and even punched the flats once installed.

    After that the clunk I had near the bottom of the front door hinge pillar post went away.
    I don't know if that repair, I did, will hold up to a off-road driving sessions but it has worked fine for street use.

    That nut is a pain to get tight because of the nook it is in.
    The book says, it should be tightened up with the weight of the car pushing the A arms up.
    Just like when torquing the bolts of the rear trailing arms.

    Might be worth a strong tug!

    Phil







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