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At the end of last season I did the oil changes on the Amazons but the Fram filters I usually use were not available so I bought 2 STP filters. They installed as expected but after driving they seem to be leaking. Not much, but any is too much. So I picked up two Purolator filters to replace them. This should not be a big deal, agreed? Well since I have the sedan up on stands to do some brake line work etc I decided to change the filter. It wouldn't undo. The socket tool I usually use just slipped, then I coudn't get the chain wrench in there so I tried this other, midevil
oil filter wrench. I applied so much force that the wrench pierced the filter. Now I had oil dripping all over. Finally had to lower the exhaust twin pipes to get enough room to get the chain wrench in from underneath and with great difficulty and a real mess got the damn thing off. The new filter spun right on as expected, threads on the post did not appear to be damaged. Anyone ever have this happen? I got the Puralators filters because that's what was available but I think I'll switch to WIX/NAPA filters in the fall.
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I like IPD and the price of the 10 pack is very reasonable until I add the shipping to Connecticut and then they cost as much as they do locally. IPD shipping always seems expensive, but of course I hate paying for shipping, I'd rather it was built into the price. Since I have time, if IPD does a free shipping thing again this summer I'll buy the 10 pack. Meanwhile I'll keep trying to find MANN specs.
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While you're looking at Mann specs, check out the filter for the early VW Rabbit diesel. I have read that these fit the B18/20 perfectly as they have the same filter to block interface. The bonus is, if you think it's useful to you, is that the filter is about a third longer. More filter area and a bit more cooling perhaps. Larger size specified for the diesel due to the extra soot in the oil so it can cope with that without reducing the filter change mileage. Extra length gives you more to grip when taking it off too.
Likely to be this one which is also marketed for Audi. Has a fitting on the end for a removal bar which can't be used to tighten it. Subtle hint there.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-T25-GOLF-MK1-MK2-MK3-CADDY-DIESEL-OIL-FILTER-MANN-W940-25-A476-/191153800082
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I left this out yesterday as I did not see the importance, but alomg with the WIX 15311specs I posted they also suggested applications for it as follows: Volvo(92-99), Kubota, NewHolland, Volvo Trucks & Buses, and Mahindra. Pretty much all diesel applications.
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hi sages- one that is an excellent and highly rated filter is the fleetguard, but dont know who sells it or if there is a unit for a 240 volvo. if anyone knows please chime in. regards oldduke
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hi sages - interesting oil filter thread. have been using purolator classic oil filters for years in various american tanks and my volvo 240. have noticed the following: mann oil filters are very good. purolators i think are equally good. i base this on two things: in the volvo the oil stays clean throughout the change period(4k). volvo has 239 k and uses no oil between changes. have used a few other brands and noticed the oil got dirtier(blacker) sooner which suggests the filter is not filtering as well. both mann and purolator have anti drain back valves and similar insides.have taken both apart and inspected. both show quality. mann and puro both show cleaner oil during the change period. would like to see unbiased tests of these two filters but have never seen it. not sure if the anti drain back valve is critical in the 240 or any engine where the filter sits upside down when installed as in the 240 b/c the oil with the engine off would sit in the bottom of the filter top. where the filter sits upright like in the chrysler slant six. in that type, the valve would be important to avoid oil starvation on start up. have always used name brand 10-30 oil in my tankers. usually get puro filters for less than $3. havent seen mann under $5.btw have heard that fleetguard makes an excellent filter too. havent found one for a volvo though. your critiques are invited. thanks tons oldduke
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As I said, I have a Purolator in the car now, glad you wrote because after all this I was getting worried about it.
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Hello!
I totally understand not wanting to pay for shipping! We are always exploring ways to offer lower shipping rates or even free shipping when we can. In an ideal world, we would be able to ship every order free of charge, but we're not at that point just yet. We are working on it though!
We do offer free shipping on orders that exceed $149 within the continental USA, (which would include Connecticut.) There are a few items we can't ship for free (over weight / over size), but the vast majority of products can go out!
From time to time we have lowered the free shipping threshold for a limited time. If we do so again I'll be sure to let you know.
I appreciate your feedback, and I'll be sure to pass it along.
--
http://dylans544.blogspot.com
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Thanks, I get frequent emails from IPD and have taken advantage of the better deals on shipping before. What you have here is a Connecticut Swamp Yankeee, we gained that reputation when we started to sell fake nutmegs.
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If you doubt Mann filters you could open up one and uncoil the paper element and then compare to any other oil filter. I have seen it done and the Mann filter has miles more filter material than any other so called premium brand.
IPD could do this as a demo it would sell anyone who ever doubted the benefits of a good oil filter (Mann) You can google "oil filter comparisons" It will be unbiased but informative
Steve
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Well thanks for the input, we follow the rules=oiling the gasket first, then I spin the filter on until it makes contact, meaning I spin it and let it come to a stop on it's own like a roulette wheel, then do the 3/4 turn thing by hand. I have an assortment of the big, 6 point sockets that fit the end of filter ever so nice-usually depending on the filter. Hopefully this was just a fluke and of course STP is out as a choice. I'll see when I replace the filter on the wagon and will report back.
I believe the WIX/NAPA filters have an anti drain feature and also use a coil spring rather than just a bend piece of metal inside that can collapse or worse.
Today I am converting (although the conversion will be reversable, unlike Bruce Jenner's) a paint pressure pot into a power bleeder. I'd post photos of this contraption if I knew how to post anything on this forum. My past attempts have been failures and I don't recall how it's done anyway.
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I once scrapped a whole car due to a stubborn filter that the PO had tighted way too much. By the final effort, all that was left of the filter was the threaded part, which had somehow become one with the engine.
Admittedly, not a great car. it was a '74 Belgian built 145. Got some okay parts from it before sending it.
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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Yes, and I don't know why it happens. I always oil the gasket (and fill the filter) and tighten them 3/4 of a turn after the gasket touches. Failing that, as tight as I can get them by hand. The filters always need to be removed with a wrench. Some are more stubborn than others.
Greg
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Farmers tend to have very strong hands. 1/2 turn after it stops spinning easily is plenty of torque. Wearing a latex glove always gives me just enough friction to get it off, very slowly at first.
Whoever designed the engines with oil filters under the exhaust pipes should have been boiled in oil!! I did my daughter's Subaru and wound up with blisters coated with oil, still better than the 220 which requires Nomex sleeves.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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A hard to remove oil filter can be caused by over tightening or by not lubricating the seal with a little bit of oil before installing or both.
Some Toyota OEM filters come with the ends covered with plastic wrap and the seals pre-lubed.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Anthony;
+1 to Eric's info. Live and learn!
...and yes to the question if that has ever happened to me...in a younger day...before I learned that a lot less tightening torque is necessary than with a metal to metal fastener...its a rubber gasket being compressed, so the tendency is to overtighten, and the rubber allows it, since the seal does not have a positive stop, but lets itself be tightened more and more.
Once the filter is pierced, it's thin sheetmetal shape is probably so distorted that no normal wrench will provide purchase...so more violent means to remove the remains without damaging anything important, are called for...the most effective (and rustic solution) being driving a big screwdriver through the end of filter, perpendicular to its threaded axis...this provides a handle which allows irresistible removal force to be applied to start it turning. Once it gets started, remove the screwdriver, and being careful not to slice and dice yourself on the sharp sheetmetal edges, remove jumbled remains of filter the rest of the way. Yes it makes a mess below, and oil gets all over the exhaust, so that it's a smokeshow at next startup, but any means justify the end at this point...once removed, inspect rubber seal area of filter to assure that seal stayed with filter and was removed. An old rubber seal which separated from filter and was left on block sealing surface will not play well with the seal on new filter (and will leak for sure!).
When replacing, oil rubber seal (just a drop to wet the entire surface is enough), I like to prefill (shortens time it takes to come up to pressure while being filled by engine), tighten to contact, them no more than ~1/8 turn past...yes it seems too little, but now you know what happens if you overdo it!
Cheers
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Use proper Volvo filters. A $ or two more maybe, but you're getting a known good item with the anti drain valve. You can often get a good discount if you buy a flat pack of them. Erik will sell you some but main dealer prices are sensible considering that it's the main item that protects your engine. They are made by Mann so I'd not stop you using those. Oil the seal and tighten by hand only. They will usually come undone by hand too especially if they changed at the proper intervals. Getting them off by hand can be an arm burning experience so wear something sleeved and a good grippy glove. If you know you're going to change the oil when it's hot, which you should, loosen the filter when the engine is cold, just enough to know that it's doable by hand. Tighten up snug again and warm up the engine, go for a short run, or whatever is convenient. Then just do it.
Yes, I've had to bash a screwdriver through a filter to turn it too. If you are quick and careful it doesn't make too much mess
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Is there a place to find specs on MANN filters? I'd like to compare them to WIX/NAPA filters. Does anyone have the MANN part number for the oil filter to fit an Amazon?
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3517857.
The anti drainback valve is, according to some, the awesome factor.
Cameron
Portland
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WIX/NAPA filters have the anti drain feature. They also list the specs for their filters, I cannot find same for MANN filters. I'd like to comapare them. "FleetFilter" posts the WIX NAPA specs. Here's the info on the WIX 51311. Others that will fit our application are WIX 57730 and 51307.
I have no idea what some of this stuff means but it must have some significance.
Fleet Filter shipping adds about $15 from Texas to Connecticut. So a case of ten is $52.20.
Principal Application: Volvo (92-99), Kubota, New Holland, Volvo Trks + Buses, Mahindra Tractors
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.372
Outer Diameter Top: 3.661
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 16
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=8/21
Burst Pressure-PSI: 331
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21"
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I use Mann filters exclusively on my B20 engine. The part number on the filter is W917. I don't know if this is a Canada only number.
Cheers,
--
Barry '67 122S "Betty" (Rest in parts), '69 122S "Veronica"
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I use those filters as well. It's same a Volvo filter without Volvo stamped on it. I also use a band type of oil filter wrench. That has never failed on any vehicle ever that I used it on.
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I have one too, it was there but by the time I realized what my grandson was up to, it was way to late. This is how we learn. I was under the back of the car and it didn't immediately click why I was hearing a hammer in action?
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