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Hi Everyone - My '93 940T Wagon ( or should I write 945T? ) has a driveline or something making a droning noise and can't figure out what to do first or next to help her out. I've had the shocks and struts and other suspension parts replaced about 7 years ago. This includes engine mounts and transmission mount but not the center mount bearing. I've had the transmission rebuilt 6 years ago which still has issues even after taking it back three times before warranty expired, I've only put 21,000 miles on her in 6 years.
I've eliminated one transmission problem by installing a OD bypass part which made a huge difference.
I've done a transmission flush with Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid and will do it again when I have the time and money. This has helped with some of the slow speed down shifting where it feels like the transmission is bucking. I let off the throttle a little and then press the throttle again and most of the time it finds the gear it's suppose be in. It's totally random!
I've tightened the kick down cable three flats and it's helped with the bucking and shifting. It's hard for me to know how tight or loose it should be because there's no little crimped on stop thing.
Anyway, back to the driveline.... I was wondering if some of the driveline vibration is because at four corner of my car are at different heights. Driver side front measured from center of wheel to bottom of wheel panel 15.25", Front passenger measures 16", Rear driver is 14.5", and Rear passenger is 15.25".
I first tried lowering the center carrier because after shaking it it looked like it was too low. Which seemed to help at slower speeds but at faster speeds I felt and heard a little more vibration.
I raised it back to it's original height but played with the center carrier alignment and that seemed to help a lot.
I still get some droning and knocking especially when speeding up and slowing down and am wondering if some of the droning is because of the different heights of the car? Should I install a new transmission mount? Play with the driveline alignment some more?
Sorry for the long rambling post... just have so many questions and issues to address.
Best Regards,
Bill
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Mr. Graffs,
How many miles, please?
How long ago did this sound start?
If you are very tall and large person like me, the drive side of a 22-year old automobile can display a lowering of the springs on the driver side, even when the vehicle is empty.
However, failing suspension bushings, prior auto body damage, tire pressure and / or size imbalance (doubtful you have this) can all contribute.
Motor and transmission mounts can fail in less than seven years. Certainly on a Turbo 940.
A groaning sound can come from a host of locations. As you have a wagon (estate), sourcing the sound will be more difficult has the cargo may and sheet metal acoustics make for resonant fun! One could use a wooden dowel section, placed to the ear, when it is in contact with the automobile unibody sheet metal, as the vehicle moves.
You'll need a passenger to do this as you drive.
It is usual for automobile coil and leaf springs to fatigue overtime.
Anything with rotation:
- Transmission (Something about a tail-shaft bushing or failing wet clutches?)
- Any of the four wheel bearings (a low groan can mean a dry and failing bearing as well as a high pitched squeak!). Yes, all four RWD Volvo wheel bearings require NLGI-2 grease, at least for the 240/260 onward. Consult your owner manual.
- Rear differential pinion bearing.
- Drive shaft U-Joint failing.
From the 700-900 FAQ, hosted here on everyone's fave brickboard.com:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Driveline.htm
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/FrontSuspension.htm
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/RearSuspension.htm
700-900 Maintenance Manual Listing!!!!!!!! COOOOOL!!!!:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/MaintenanceManuals.htm
You may want to explore the FAQ. Very useful.
(Though I wish we had 240/260 FAQ, also, in the same vain.)
- If transmission. Low fluid or bad fluid? Flush fluid?
- Wheel bearings. Never let these run dry. Certainly the rear wheel bearings. NLGI-2 Grease. I won't describe what hell you deal with should the rear wheel bearings fail on a live or IRS rear axle RWD Volvo.
- Differential pinion bearings can be replaced. As these fail, move of the input flange inside the pinion bearing seal cause an oil leaK. How is the fluid level and quality?
- Failing drive shaft U-Joint. Place one hand in front, and the other behind the U-joint. Twist. Feel any play?
Like the two U-joints on the driveshaft column. (though unrelated to your post, yet a wear item).
Less probable causes:
The exhaust may be sagging, you may have a broken hanger, or failing exhaust. The exhaust piping may be making contact with your 940 unibody underneath. Yet that usually accompanies a clanking, and you'd hear the exhaust leak, possibly. I guess exhaust piping hangers can fail without inducing an immediate leak.
The tires are over or under-inflated, or have belts, or have separating in the layer tread layer of rubber, steel belts, and such. Usually that is one tire.
I think that does.
Many others that have owned 700s and 900s shall chime in with more useful info than I write here. I've repaired 700s and 900s, yet never owned one.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Thank you.
Buttermilk and Salad for Lunch this Fri-Day.
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mighty, Mighty, MIGHTY Washington State!!!!!
FOREVER EVERGREEN!
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Hello again! thank you for your response, much appreciated.
She has 222,669 miles at my last oil change.
There was a recent Thread here discussing a popping noise after the person replaced his front struts/shocks and rear shocks... I had the same or close to the same popping noise when the garage replaced my struts and shocks. So, I brought it back to the garage and they replaced my wheel bearings and to this day, seven years later, I still have the popping noise but only on warm days. It has gotten a lot better though over time.
I used to use my car for work and would carry some pretty heavy loads so perhaps the springs are worn out. I've never really thought about the springs until lately.
I took my car to Les Schwab to get a new tire and they said that she needed new struts and shocks because of the noticeable height differences. I didn't let them touch her.
My transmission pan was leaking some fluid so I tried another transmission place. I wanted him to diagnose to problems I been having after the rebuild. He did fix the pan leak on the second try. He took the driveline apart and U joints and they checked out good. He did noticed the droning when she was warmed up good but couldn't diagnose the source. The transmission bucking(?) at low speed and mostly going up hill he couldn't replicate that symptom.
I will try your U joint method check myself to see if he missed something.
I had the exhaust replaced with a cat back kit by another garage. I had to fix their work because they didn't replace two of the old rubber hangers. Anyway, as far as I can tell it's hitting or rattling around on anything. I also checked the transmission dipstick and exhaust brackets but will check them again.
The rear differential should be looked at and serviced since I can't remember if the fluid has ever been changed. The transmission guy may have checked the pinion, I don't know.
I shook the driveline pretty hard at the tail bushing and it has some movement. I don't know if it's a bushing or bearing?
That's it for now. Thanks for all the help!
Bill
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Hi Bill,
Happy Sat-Your-Day (all day long) and an even better weekend, please.
I'm glad your replied. So now we have a driveline noise and a popping noise that may be also related to suspension. So, we'll continue with the droning, moaning driveline noise.
Driveline noise, one more cause ….
One other cause for driveline noise, as you describe, that I did not mention, that is rare cause, is a seized drive-shaft carrier bearing that is spinning inside the drive shaft center support bushing. Usually caused when the operator parks the Volvo outdoors, on well or poorly drained gravel, or worse, over grass or dirt, and leaves it for awhile. Or you live in areas with a single snow flake and mountains of salt everywhere ... a failing center support carrier bearing makes a high-pitched buzz, breathy-whistly, somewhat buzzy noise, yet it is not seized and does not slide or spin around (much) inside the drive shaft center support bearing. Best heard motoring at moderate speed on the far right lane of the road with a gutter or some running structure to reflect the sound back through the open passenger side windows, like on 240 with the same problem, or 140, or 160, and so on, and on.
Chassis height and failing springs and dampeners….
So, in your 1993 Volvo 945 Turbo, is the rear axle a live axle, like that on Volvo 240, or is it the self-leveling Independent Rear Suspension (IRS)?
Yes, at 222,669, if you use your 1993 Volvo 945 Turbo for primarily work, requiring you carry heavy loads frequently, like say several times weekly and such, can be cause for fatigued springs, in addition to the years of service and mileage.
You can contact the dealership, or if you have access to the Volvo VADIS, you can find listing of springs by Volvo PN, spring rate, height, and coil wire diameter. You may still have duty springs in the aftermarket. Check FCP and iPd. iPd can ship to you in a day on UPS ground. Yet you have numerable import auto part vendors, and some very good ones, of course, in the Seattle area, perhaps a short drive away. Call around first!
As for failing dampeners, no, that does not cause much variation in height. Shame on Les Schwab telling you this. (Unless you have the rear IRS self-leveling suspension or use air shocks to raise the lower the vehicle to accommodate varying loads.) Installing new high-pressure gas-charge dampeners can have an effect of raising the car.
Again, unless the rear suspension is the IRS with the darned Nivomat brand dampeners that integrate to the self-leveling system. I hope you do not have the rear IRS. Solutions exist to rid your self of the Nivomats and install quality rear dampeners.
Popping sound…and suspension …
A shop said the popping noise coming from the front of your 945 are the wheel bearings?
Wheel bearings fail as they are not repacked with fresh grease, are improperly torqued, and are not weather-tight as the rear rubber seal can fail. (I may be getting my front wheel bearing assemblies confused. My 700-900 service manuals are packed away.)
The popping sound you mention .... when does this happen? As you turn, drive, hit potholes and such ... ?
And the sound is better?
Does it make the popping sound when the car is stopped, yet running, and you steer? Warmer can mean things loosen up, like worn bearings clearances or gaps between bushing material and the metal parts comprising the bushing assembly. The front strut cartridge could make popping noises when twisting as you turn.
At 222,669, if not already, the strut mounts, will more than likely require replacement. These can make a popping sound. This is a question of other 700/940 owners as it has been sometime since I installed struts and rebuilt a 700/900 suspension. I used Made in West Germany Boge rubber bushings (yes, THAT long ago). For the 700/900/90 torque rod bushes (Whiteline brand receives rave reviews), quality and well lubricated urethane is a solution.
You also have a host of other front suspension wear items that make noise, such as popping, like failing ball joints, inner and outer tie rods in the steering rack, a loose steering rack where ti secure to the engine support member, and the aforementioned strut mount and torque rod bushings. Also, the front stabilizer bar bushings, yet more so the front stabilizer bar end link bushes can deteriorate and actually dry-rot, so the eye-holes at the ends of the stabilizer bars are actually making metal to metal contact with the end-link during suspension articulation as your Volvo 945 Turbo moves. Turn the wheels to the left or right, and you'll see the stabilizer bar end links with out having to raise the affix the vehicle unibody chassis to axle stands or chassis braces.
Also, if you install OEM-like Rubber Bushings on your 700-900, use OEM or Made in Germany-Europa Boge or from the stealership. Tasca Volvo parts is cheapest. Maybe some West Coast import auto vendor can source made in Germany Boge. (One big HINT for you folks in Portland. Yeah you.)
I would be afraid of any brand dampener a Les Schwab Tire Store may install. Again, if it AIN'T made in Europa, wholly avoid it. The best value you may have is Bilstein Touring. Avoid Made in Mexico Sachs that retail outlets may advertise as "Boge by Sachs". Though Made in Mexico Sachs is wholly better than anything Les Schwab or any tire and exhaust and brake store will sell you. Like Midas, Meineke, and so forth. The price points between Made in Mexico Sachs Advantage (is NOT Boge Turbo Gas, iPd, and others!) and Bilstein Touring is negligible.
Also, the Les Schwab Tire Store telling you your 945 Turbo chassis height problem, in relation to the ground, are the crappy dampeners they want you to pay too much for in parts and labor to install them, well, is, unethical. (Sorry, that ticked me off that they said this to you.)
Perhaps you can find someplace or someone that can install parts you want to install? You have the listing of Volvo Mechanics. If you were closer to beautiful, beautiful, beautiful (yes, at least three), Bellingham, WA I'd say speak with Larry at his Rainbow Auto Service.
http://www.volvomechanics.com/
Also, what brand of dampeners (struts cartridges and rear shock absorbers) do you have in there? The choices are few for all RWD Volvo. Please make sure they are Made in Germany or greater Europa.
You can also do a search, using your fave search engine for thing like "Volvo 940" and "popping noise". I'd have to hear it and be next to and in the car with you.
Did you read the FAQ entries URL in my prior reply post to you? There may be entries that deal with popping sounds. Also, actual 700/900 Volvo folks, right here on your brickboard can better help you as my 700/900/90 hands-on wrenching and what not is not entirely recent.
Though, boy oh boy, a 1998 Volvo 940 sedan or wagon, normally aspired, with manual transmission, would make my Volvo collection complete, save for the 160s, 140s, 130, and PVs I'd like. I'll be the Jay Leno of Volvo collections, with some other choice European makes and models.
I'm sorry I can help you more. It gets rather speculative when you have multiple issue, that may or may not intersect, and when descriptions of sounds and smells come over the text message, it makes it a wee bit bothersome to diagnose from the ease of the armchair and Windows XP.
Maybe you could well wish me into a tech writer / BA job in Snohomish County or Skagit or Whatcom? (Who can afford King county anymore? Snohomish and Pierce are going to go bonkers on real estate more than they have.) Or maybe around beautiful Olympia, WA? I'd could make a Sat-Your-Day (Caturday!) visit and help you in person. I'd also bring some coffee and bagels or something, and tools.
Auto Transmission bucks going up hill?
Does your transmission still do this? Buck as you climb a hill?
Does not a Volvo enthusiast club around Seattle exist? Some aspect of the VCOA?
Sorry I can't help you more in this message.
I have to bypass another bulb-out sensor in the 1990 240 DL wagon. Stupidly, I fried the thing myself. The poor old thing was in a front end collision in 1999, and all the plastic works inside were replaced, including a fuse box door, with the final Volvo 240 fuse box legend label, and not being as usually perspicuity-equipped that day, I fried the brake light switch and the bulb out sensor. The wires going to the reverse light switch on the M47 II transmission had chafed down to the stranded copper conductor, and I kept getting confused by the incorrect 1993 Volvo 240 fuse box cover label legend on a 1990 Volvo 240. I was really obtuse that day.
Yet I knew, like the other two Volvo 240s I have, to replace these reverse light switch wires, or at least inspect regularly. I may rig a center console rocker switch so at least I have white reversing lights again!
Sorry to go on so.
Questions, please?
Other 700/900/90 brickboard folks? Please reply to this thread. Bill needs your help.
Also, please review the 700-900 FAQ for help with problem diagnosis and solutions, hosted right here on the planet's best website: www.brickboard.com.
Thanks,
Sleepy Sat-Your-Day “Caturday” MacDuff.
–
Funny, that. I have no pets. Just RWD Volvos.
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Hello! thank you for responding, much appreciated, really!
The driveline noise sure sounds like it's coming from the center support. When I'm under the car, I can shake the driveline up and down with little effort and hear nearly the same noise as when I'm driving. When I'm driving, I can let off the gas and coast then tap the gas on and off and hear it like it's right under the center console. I some times hear it just driving over rough roads which is why I'm more focused on the center support. I have purchased the center support and bearing a while ago. The transmission guy thinks the driveline is out of balance but he's been wrong before. I'm tempted to replace the transmission mount since it's not very expensive and fairly easy to do. I have not heard a high pitch buzzy sound so maybe the problem is a worn tail shaft bushing? You would think they would have replaced the bushing when I had the transmission rebuilt.
The front end popping: 3/2012, All Volvo garage replaced my front passenger ball joint. I think this shop is good but I haven't used them but once. They did my front and rear brakes.
The popping noise I believe got a little better after that. The popping noise is most noticeable when parking, turning at slow speeds, and when parked, turn the wheel 1/4 turn and it'll pop make a little pop sound.
7/2009: The crappy Texas Volvo shop replaced 2 of the inner steering rods. It didn't get rid of the popping sound.
1/2009: Front wheel bearings were replaced and rear shocks. Sorry, I don't know what brand of shocks they installed although they creak or squeak.
8/2008: Engine mounts, strut mounts, strut inserts (is this the shock absorber) and boot kit (boots look like they've never been replaced).
The transmission bucking: I don't know what to do about this other than to live with it or find a good used replacement transmission. It happens randomly and mostly when turning a corner to go up a slight incline or hill and the transmission doesn't seem to quite make it into 2nd or 1st gear. I don't push it, I let up on the gas and give it gas again and that does the trick. This has improved since I did the transmission flush and replace the OD.
I've read some of the FAQ's but not all for sure. what I've read has been a huge help and has lead to good repairs saving me from handing over my wallet to the repair shops.
Have a great weekend and thanks again for the help!!
GothM
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Hi GothM940,
As I'm again in MIGHTY WA-state this morning, I brief response.
Mechanics
I used to be one. Don't trust me. (ha-ha.)
When you work on a axle item, like a ball joint, you replace them in pairs if one begins to fail from normal wear within the expected duty cycle of the part. So, these mechanics you mention .... well. I'll get a hot cup of shut the heck up.
Unless you were limited on funds, or that the mechanic inspect both ball joints, and the one replaced had boot damage and began to fail prematurely.
There have been multiple posting on Seattle area mechanics. I cannot attest to any. I usually reply with:
http://www.volvomechanics.com/
You also have:
https://www.brickboard.com/SHOPS/
And cross check with the BBB. You are dealing with some of the highest hourly auto labor repair rates in North America.
Shops have been mentioned on this board in your area. Many folks from the Puget Sound and BC area are here on the brickboard. Use the oft-complained on brickboard search feature, or use your fave search engine (google remains better) to target the "site:brickboard.com" (without quotes) in the search query arra on the web search page of your fave search engine. Enter value to search what you want like Seattle mechanics and such.
Of course, if I was at Boeing in Everett, I'd be all too happy to stop in and give a hand.
Center Support Bearing Replacement
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Driveline.htm
The Haynes, and the Volvo green manuals treat center support drive shaft carrier bearing replacement.
Please see the Volvo OEM Factory Service manual kindly hosted on k-jet.org.
http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/900-series/
You'll need a press to remove and replace the bearing itself from the drive shaft. The center support bushing actually shrinks over time, so the driveshaft finds new ways of wandering.
Mark the drive shaft alignment with white paint or yellow chrome paint (clean the surface of grime) before and after the center support bearing.
Find a machinist that perform automobile work to press off the old bearing and press on the new bearing. A proper press mandrel centers on the center bearing section to apply force to press the bearing back on the rear of the front drive shaft section. Some machinists do not have the correct equipment to take on the duty of replacing the center support bearing from a two-piece RWD Volvo drive shaft assembly. (Well, the rear of the front driveshaft section, anyway.)
Verify the machinist can do this. That the press can accommodate the drive shaft section, and the mandrel, for lack of better description, presses on the center silver steel ring part of the center support bearing. SKF is a bearing brand you can use. You may be able to find the OEM vendor or the center support bushing, buy from Volvo, or buy after market for the bushing.
Clean and lubricate the splines. Use a recommended grease to lube the splines. I used a synthetic NLGI-2 grease, yet a softer NLGI-1 grease may work.
See the Volvo green manual link for recommended lubricants.
While under the vehicle, yet before removing anything, try the U-joint twist test. One hand in front, one behind the u-joint, and twist. Feel any play? With the drive shaft out, you or a repair service can replace.
Minutiae
Popping Sound
My 1991 240 sedan makes a metal-popping or slow-deep-zippering sound. More so in the cold. The Bilstein HD strut gland nuts are properly torqued, new Volvo strut mounts, so, I dunno. The ball joints are not new, yet it has always made this sound. It sound like the springs transfer and resonate this noise through the front suspension and sheet metal assemblies. I have the TME lowering springs from Sweden iPd used to sell to lower it. I do have to replace both control arm bushes on the thing.
I'd have to hear the sound yours makes.
Any tech writer jobs in Skagit? I tried Paccar and interviewed with them. They got weird when I said I dedicate the roots of all my industrial and electromechanical knowledge to my seven Volvo 240s and the innumerable cars and other things I've repaired.
It could be suspension articulation. Turning tires at low speed on some surfaces may make for an audio resonation through the front suspension as the tire drags over the road surface.
Transmission
I'll guess you have some Asian-Warner AW-70 auto transmission in there, yes?
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm
- Fluid Level?
- Fluid quality? Bright red, nearly pink. Any BROWN or darker is unacceptable.
- Clogged screen filters?
I avoid automatic transmissions.
Some here will merely perform a transmission fluid flush. Many innumerable articles here on the brickboard and turbobricks treat this topic. Replace the fluid using a quality mineral oil. Drive for a week.
Than some will replace the fluid with synthetic or merely refill the temp flush fluid with a better brand of mineral transmission fluid.
Your AW-70, if that's what you have, will have Dexron II or Dexron III. Dexron is a GM spec fluid. So far as I know, yet am entirely uncertain, you have to use the very newest version of Dexron III. GM has Dexron V or VI out now, yet that is design for their transmissions, not the AW-70. Please see:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm
Specifically:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#TransmissionService
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#7XX940FluidFlush
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#ATFluidNeedsChangingLateorPoorShiftQuality
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#Trans_Output_Shaft_Bushing
Else, you may have adjustment issues or electronic control issues? Please read the entire FAQ page.
And ...
Replace the front wheel bearings? Why? Do you ask them to give you the old parts?
Did the bearings run dry, then?
Questions?
Hope that helps.
And a job in Whatcom, Thurston, Skagit counties? maybe Aberdeen, Curt Cobain's hometown. Or a hut on the tallest mountain in the North Cascades National Park Monument or what ever it is.
Thank you,
Volvo "Buttermilk" MacDuffy's Tavern.
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MacDuff and his Volvo 240s three.
(Like Marvel Comics' Thor and his Warriors Three)
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Owld Volvo MacDuff - Prolonging the Expository
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Auld, owld, old things ....
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Helluva .sig.
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Only car make and model I've ever owned: Volvo 240.
Currently owned, beloved, operating, and getting better all the time(!):
1990 240 (245) DL (B230, M47 II. No bigger heart a Volvo 245 has.)
1991 240 (244) (B230, M47 II, Moonroof. Grey Market from Germany. Beloved.)
1992 240 (244) GL (B230, M47 II, LH-jet 3.1, Moonroof. Turbo 240 exhaust? Why?)
RIP, yet beloved:
1975 244 DL (B20, M40. OHV B20 FOREVER! Maroon vroom-vroom! 0-60 in 3 days!)
1976 242 DL (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Wrecked near Skywalker Ranch!)
1979 245 DL (B21, M46. Cheesy mustard yellow and a rod knock in Marin County.)
1979 242 GT (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Grey Market from Holland. Beloved.)
--
Pioneer SX-1500T, Pioneer SX-3700, Allied 390 or 360, and all need rehabbing.
Hopes for the awesome Pioneer SX-9000, so long as the location has good stations.
Dynaco Dynakit PAS 3 needing the full rehab shabile. 5751, 12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7?
Not so vintage Technics SA-290. Two EQs. And seven pairs of speakers.
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Three plants: Two cacti and one ponytail palm plant.
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No pets, never married, no gal pal YET, and no children.
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Adobe: The NEW technology company monopoly. FrameMaker forever! (I hate Adobe.)
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Windows 8.1: The Insecure Consumerist OS Platform Joke. Turn OFF autorun / autoplay!
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Microsoft Office 2013: It's Office '95, yet shall never be that good. Word 2013 is a biggest pile of defect. yet, we're the new Microsoft! Only CYA security fixes. Your Win 8.1 and Office 2013 bug fixes are a matter of the next product release you'll PAY for.
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Hello MacDuff! I hope your visit to WA was good. The weather has been nice the last couple of days and I got out yesterday to check the driveline on GothM940. BTW, she has a AW 71 transmission. I'm not sure if it has a tailshaft bushing or bearing? I shook the driveline as hard as I could but no significant play there. I looked at the motor mounts and the oil pan distance to the frame looked very good. I twisted the driveline at the U joints as you suggested and that looked good as well. I took a really good look at the center support, since this is where I can get the most driveline movement and hear what I think is the same noise while driving, and compared it to the new one I have... it sure looks and feels like there's more play there. The distance of the surrounding rubber at the top is larger than the new one I have. Maybe that is because of the driveline weight but maybe it's because of age and the rubber shrinking as you said earlier. Is it possible to remove the old center support and replace with the new Febi support without having to replace the bearing?
About the difference in ride heights, I read in the FAQ's that it could be one fatigue spring causing it. I have the same height, 15.25", on the diagonal from front driver to rear passenger but different heights from front passenger, 16", to rear driver, 14.5". BTW, is a strut insert the shock absorber? I'm assuming all shock absorbers are still good at this time. If replacing springs, do you replace all four or can you replace just two?
Don't get me started on the Volvo shop in Houston and he's Swedish too!! They replaced the front wheel bearings because I told them I heard the brakes squeak a little at a slow speed. If I remember correctly the brakes had been serviced about year prior to me telling them the squeak.
Here in Seattle, the shop only replaced the one ball joint and not sure why only the one.
Transmission level is correct or slightly below the hot full mark. The old fluid still looked good at the time of the flush but as good as now plus I think it was over filled by about 8.5 fluid ounces.
Thanks again MacDuff!! and let me know if you're in town again.
Bill
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Hiya Bill,
You got some seriously hard core excellent service and support on your water pump leak, what?!?!?!?! =^)
"brickboard.com: kicking the i-net's duff with unyielding Volvo auto fanaticism since 1997!!!!!
Why GothM940 for your brickboard.com handle?
Oh, no, I'm a resident of WA-staten now. Yet I spend most time, like today, somewheres in Eastern WA, you know, what with the very little rain, the winter-less winter that just past.
I'd like to be in Pierce, King, and Snohomish Counties out by you. Thurston County would be a nice. A nice gig in Lacey. I like lovely Olympia. WA-state has a lovely state capitol and Olympia and the surrounding environs are nice.
Maybe Skagit or Whatcom? It's all been discovered some time ago. Maybe some will make another volvo-loving vampire media franchise that takes place in Whatcom county, versus Forks and Grays Harbor. Maybe Spokane-CDA? Up to the NE WA and North Idaho mountains?
I suggest you research your automatic transmission questions. I'll bow out of any RWD Volvo automatic transmissions after the BW35/55. On Volvo, after BW55, I only know what I've read. I avoid automatic transmissions.
Read the FAQ entries on transmission. Most of the current group position is contained there based on direct evidence and anecdotal info. Plus, also search the brickboard. There is a recommended fluid change or fluid flush interval listed in the FAQ and in threads on this brickboard.
The sound you describe, if indeed the drive shaft center support carrier bearing and bushing assembly, is probably the bearing, in a failed state, that is making the growling sound you describe. The center support bushing is synthetic rubber. It can appear sagged as the bushing material fails. The spring does ad some height. If 940 has a spring in the driveshaft center support bushing.
I've read many time here on the brickboard that some here will take a little motor oil. Like an engine oil, usually a little heavier weight, or differential lobe oil, and in a dropper or some delivery method, a spoon(?), with dribble some of the oil along the concentric seams between the out bearing metal (seat) and the center bearing seat. The black concentrically strip is actually part of the seal. Some will dribble oil, soaking the bearing, to quiet it, and also prove whether the sealed bearing has failed. Sometimes the sealed bearing fails as it lost its seal, or the sealed bearing has so worn and has so much play, gaps have formed.
So, you could try some oil and see if that quiets the bearing. One way of verifying the bearing is not the fault. Yet the bushing does shrink and forms play, causing the drive shaft to move in weird ways (I forget the actual name of this drive shaft movement with a failing center support.)
For the hassle of doing it, yet the choice is yours, many will replace both the bushing and bearing. As for Febi, I guess that is fine. You may or may not have a spring, through a bottom hole to add some vertical lift support for the bearing in side the bushing. You'll see. Please see the FAQ, the online Volvo green manuals, or even the Haynes manual probably does an okay job.
Indeed, at high miles, age, and with repeated carrying heavy loads, coil and leaf springs can fatigue.
You do have spring options through Volvo (search for Volvo VADIS and spring rates, wire diameters), in the after market (iPd USA in Portland, FCP in CT-state, and your innumerable and well equipped Seattle-area auto import stores. (Few places in North America to enjoy older Europa auto model ownership than in the NW from Portland nothwardly, and the inland empire locales to the east. Though we all suffer the after market quality, or lack of quality.) Another option is studying what springs you may find on what model of 700/900/90. Like on a 960/90 wagon. Later is usally newer than earlier.
Yet you need to know whether you have the Nivomat rear independent rear self-leveling (IRS) suspension. The spring you can fit are limited. Mods may exist for more heavy, stiff, and high rated springs. The Nivomat spring depend on the lift assist from the expensive Nivomat self leveling shocks.
As with anything that affects ride, do it in pairs along the axle. Both rears left and right, then both fronts. Is best. If you can be economical, yet do it safely, like the rear wagon spring breaks and you have a rear sedan spring as a temp replacement, I'd guess that'd be okay.
Dampener is more a UK/Commonwealth term for the U.S. shock absorber. The front strut insert is also a front strut cartridge (dampener or shock absorber). FWD and AWD cars can have rear McPherson strut cartidges, also. RWD Volvo it is the rear shock absorber.
Best to replace these in pairs, left and right, for an axle, at a time.
I dunno when I'd visit. There may be a run to Bellingham in the next two months. I'd be glad to meet. If not far, maybe at Black Raven Brewing in Redmond? Or someplace by you.
I think you have a large VCOA chapter in Seattle.
We can give the mutual middle finger of hatred towards Microsoft cfor foisting Windows 8.1 and Microsoft Office 2013 onto me.
Long manuals and Office 2013 do not work. So, I'm going to DOWNGRADE to the superior Microsoft Office version: Microsoft Office Professional Enterprise 2003.
Maybe go back to Windows 7. Rather stick with the Windows NT 4.0 SP 6.0a as I have set on my XP box.
The docx and xlsx formats really require you save as new on large files.
Awful.
Questions?
Thank you,
Duffy's Tavern: Buttermilk on Tap.
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Hello MacDuff! What is VCOA? If it has something to do with beer I'm not much of a drinker but would be happy to drive. :)
I grew up in Eastern Washington and go to visit me ma every so often. I love it and also love it on the west side.
I will take your advice and drop in some oil. I did read that in the FAQ's but dismissed it because the tranny shop guy said the bearing is still good. However, if I'm going to replace the center support I may as well replace the bearing too. I did buy the genuine Volvo bearing from FCP but they don't carry a genuine volvo center support. Which one would you recommend?
Oh, GothM940 is named after my wife, in spite, because she says I have an expensive mistress, which is the Black '93 940 Station wagon that she would love to get rid of. Goth, is because my wife who was a goth girl before it was popular. M, is for Maria, her middle name. We kindly call her GothMaria. :)
GothM!!
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