...for the suggestions and the cautions and parts info.

This is now in the "get around to it" category as soon as some other issues are sorted. I will post back to the BB once I have taken action, with results.
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Bob: Son's XC70, my 83 244DL, 89 745 (V8) and XC60. Also '77 MGB and some old motorcycles

"Looking for suggestions on how to fix or should I replace the whole strut assembly?"
When the strut mount went on my '80, I went into a PickNPull and removed the whole strut assembly (with calipers, rotor, ball joint, spring, shock) from both sides of a later 240 which were in good shape. Easy to remove (cut brake lines at caliper, 3 bolts ball joint, top 3 nuts). It was "all-you-can-carry for $50 day" and that was basically all I could carry.

When I got home I noticed the struts were different, so I upgraded. And had extras left over.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

same thing happened to me with my 1980 244. I had bought a used pair of struts from a recycler in Arizona, years ago. The tube down to the axel stub.

but it's been years. I think it was $75 per side

http://www.usedautopartsdealers.com/state/arizona/hirsch_foreign.php

If you go with the weld on plate you need a spot weld drill and a cut off air tool. best to remove the shock cartridge because if you weld while it's inside the tube, it will burst. My 1983 240 wagon did the same thing with the driver side spring base. I just replaced the whole strut with a complete recycled one. Could you post a supplier for the coil spring base. The Volvo 740 change the lower design so there is no cupped lip for dirt and moister to get trap and rust out. The 740 lower spring cup is inverted.

Hi Volvodad,

Indeed! No ABS or later 1980s strut tubes.

Your 83 strut tubes may accommodate a host of strut cartridges if DL and maybe GL. I think the Turbo 240 strut tubes are a little shorter.

In the after market, as you found and other thread posters mention, the 240 front strut spring seat (Volvo PNs 274100, 72434100) for around 10$ US is made by Professional Parts Sweden (Are they formerly ScanTech?)

FCP Groton Has 'em, here:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-suspension-strut-spring-seat-240-242-244-245-260-274100

iPd USA does not it appears.

You may want to contact your Volvo stealership around British Columbia if they have spring seats available. The spring seats may come from the same factory for Pro Parts Sweden and Volvo. But you may want to take a look at both and choose the better one. Though the pro Parts Sweden on looks like it is heavily galvanized and a heavy gauge plate carbon-steel

Contact a auto repair place that can recommend a good welder / fabricator.

After the new spring seat in on the strut tube, you have to refinish the strut tube and the weld in a sealing paint or POR-15 or I dunno.

Also, if the spring seat has failed on the driver side, what of the passenger side?

Also, how are them strut mounts? Have you replaced them? Buy only the Volvo OEM PN 1272455. All after market is horrible. They are made by Boge of Germany for Volvo, for now. A quality strut mount has an open ball-bearing race. Remove the strut mount dust cap. See the the ball bearings? Slid some synthetic silicon grease like SuperLube. Silicon grease is easier on the rubber than dino hydrocarbon grease.

Usually the spring seat drain holes are at the strut tube exterior surface clog. This is a maintenance issue. We should want poke through the clogged holes so water drains and they dry. While these strut tubes are galvanized, well, you now see what happens. The welder / fabricator you use must be aware to leave some open drain pathways where the welder places the weld between the spring seat and the strut tube exterior.

In British Columbia, Canada, however, around Vancouver are a host of good salvage yards with Volvos in them If not by th salty sea of in the mountainous ice and snow, you should have a good chance to pull a set of strut tubes from the salvage yard.

You also have Rainbow Motor Service in beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, Bellingham, WA (where you BC folks go to buy your milk!). Speak with Larry. He CAN help you. http://www.rainbowautoservice.com/

If you go further afield, you have a large number of salavage yards around the more poplauted areas on the I-5 down into Portland. You'll find rust free, or less rust than your 83 strut tube has!

Hope that helps.

Questions,

Thanks,

Practicing Typewriting!
--

The lower spring 'cup' is indeed welded to the strut tube. I cut mine off when converting to a traditional coil-over set up so I could take advantage of the variety of 2.5" springs available.

I'd go to www.turbobricks.com in the classifieds and post up a 'wanted' note - bet you can get a good set of strut tubes for not much money.
--
82 242 5.0L; '10 Cayman S; '15 Honda Fit

Don't forget you need pre-ABS tubes, so if you're buying used make sure the seller knows what year they're from.

I just replaced both front strut assemblies on my non-ABS (Canadian) '92 245. They hadn't failed, but a caliper bolt broke off on the driver's side. They were sufficiently rusty anyway, and I figured if I was replacing one, I might as well replace the other. Besides, the dust shields had mostly rotted away and I wanted to replace bearings as well, etc. etc. I'm keeping the one good one as a spare that I'll clean up.

I found each side from a different Volvo recycler in excellent condition. One in particular seemed practically new. The other had some surface rust that I POR-15'd prior to installation just for good measure. I shouldn't have to worry about it for the remaining life of the car.

Depending on where you are located, I could provide you contact information for those recylcers. They had more available. Cost was $125 a piece.

Of course, to have a local mechanic/welder weld a new plate ($10) shouldn't be all that expensive. So if your tube is sound, that might be a more economical option.

Hi,

I believe they are welded on. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't be serviceable if your tubes are sound, and that would be your most economical solution. There's a fair tolerance that shouldn't be difficult to maintain.

One caution I would add is avoid letting buddy next door weld them with his new Canadian Tire mig welder. It's always best to find someone trained in that type of work.

I have a pair from 1980 California car with most of the undercoating still on them, that I would sell reasonably if you're interested. Call 802 635 7603.

Peter