Do you mean to race your 1992 Volvo 240 as rally and rally-cross?

How many miles on it?

These questions may be better for turbobricks.com.

Innumerable threads on these topics are hosted right here on your brickboard and turbobricks. So, search both forums for more info.

I'll guess you've modded an auto for racing before?

The path is usually getting the auto to stage 0 (ha-ha, I should talk with my 240s), and then apply mods needed to suit your application.

Made in Australia Whiteline urethane (polyurethane) receives rave reviews. Use synthetic silicon grease like SuerLube.

The strut, or GT strut, reinforcing carbon-steel plates, in black powder coat (I think) are useful in that they help to distribute the intersecting forces around the strut tower. Equally useful are the strut tower to firewall bars. Both of these appeared on the R versions of 240s, like the ghostly 242 GT. There is another set of reinforcing bars that secure at the rear edge of the engine cross member and secure to one of the three rear (large) control arm bushing housing bolt hole. To reduce the to and fore sway of the V-6 engine on the cross member, yet useful for the four cylinder to further stiffen the weighty front end box of the 240. You can get strut to strut tow braces that cross the engine compartment over the engine and under the hood (a close fit).

As for a locking rear end, I dunno the specific version of Dayna. Something to do with the number of horizontal ribs between the pumpkin and the presses fitting stubs the rear axle tubes press into on the differential pumpkin housing. You have one or two. Two ribs being a stronger housing. Yes you can replace the differential with other version that will fit in the housing at around 400-800+$ a pop. They come in a host of ratios, many lower than stock as is useful for rally.

As for strut mounts, you'll use the strut mounts from Volvo, Volvo OEM PN 1272455, made by Boge of Germany for Volvo. Do NOT buy after market. Good strut mounts use a roller bearing assembly at the center, not a sealed bearing. You can slip in some grease from time to time like a good silicon synthetic grease (easier on the rubber). Else, you'll use strut mount plates made by the Volvo performance after market community.

Else, see these folks in Portland, OR
http://www.r-sportinternational.com/

They make strut mount plate, made of steel, that provides for additional front strut adjustment. And other goodies. Like replacement strut assemblies more durable performance options.

You'll also want to consider things like:
- Service both front wheel and rear wheel bearings using an NLGI-2 wheel bearings grease. (Yes, the rear wheel bearings use grease.)
- Both motor mounts and transmission mounts. You'll replace motor and tranny mounts more often even if you do not mod the engine. (Consider engine straps?)
- Steering rack inner and outer tie rods. Lemforder and a few others are still good to replace the inner and outer tie rods on your TRW/CAM steering rack. Or get a rebuilt rack from Jorgen Auto.
- Wear item replacement for serviceable engine components? Sensors? Brushes on the alternator voltage regulator / brush carrier if around 140-160k+ miles.
- Wire harness inspection. Verify connectors are clean and corrosion free. Inspect wire harness ground points.
- Fluid leaks? Solve them. New engine seals. How old is the coolant or brake fluid? Brake fluid color is dark or worse? Replace the fluid using a Motiv power bleeder.
- Transmission fluid? Redline MTL as the web site suggests. Research the overfill method when refilling the transmission with new oil.
- Weight reduction? You'll remove interior pieces like seats and headliner (through the windshield hole). Will you weld in a tube cage to the Volvo 240 unibody?
- Transmission, again. The M47 transmission is a rather frail thing, unless it comes in a steel body, and even then. It can handle maybe 150-160 horsepower, and then the glass gears of the M47 catch up with you. The M47 is not a good car to use as a drifter. A later model Ford T-5, with modifications, or Volvo (Borg and Beck) M46, or later heavy Getrag or 1990s or so Toyota Supra 5-speed can work for a dear $$$
- Stabilizer bars or springs. To get that controller oversteer, stabilizer bars stiffen the suspension and stiffen suspension action so wheels on an axle behave more dependently of each other. Great for drifting on asphalt / concrete. Maybe not as great, with less control, using heavier springs and lighter stabilizer bars, on packed and loose gravel / dirt. Control through springs rate (wire diameter) allows a little more independence of the right and left wheel on an axle.
- Tires? You'll stick with the 14" steelies or 15" alloys (MSW) wheels that came on your 1992 240? You'll want to learn tire makes and models you want versus tire size, surfaces you intend to race on, and more. Cheap 240 14" steelies or 15" inch steelies from a 740/760/960/V90/S90 (up to 1997-8, then the wheel centerline offset is the same as FWD/AWD?) can help.
- Steering rack, again. Will you stick with power steering, or go with manual steering. The two U-joints in the Volvo 240 steering column are no longer made by Volvo. After market offerings do not appear to be of quality.
- You going to beef up that engine, or keep it as is with the Bosch LH-Jetronic 3.1 we hope) / EZK-116 (?) ignition? If it is a CA-car, you may have EGR with that Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4. You do not want the EGR to fail while racing, so get some redundant EGR parts from the boneyard. Some after-market engine control systems may work with the 1992 240, yet for a dear $$$$. Get the engine to group 0 (zero), and then consider mods such as bigger diameter exhaust and a hotter cam. You can then consider loading the Volvo redblock engine with performance mods, or put in (e-gads) some sort of somewhat light V-6 engine for more power.

Others will chime in with more recent and useful experience for you.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

Duff.