Hello all, I have a 1987 240 and I am trouble shooting my fuel pumps. I was wondering if anyone could tell me exactly which pump is supposed to run when. When I turn the ignition to ON the MAIN pump, nor the Tank Pump come on, However, when I turn the ignition switch to START and actually try to start the car I can hear the MAIN pump come on. If I jump fuse #4 and #6 the main pump comes on but not the Tank pump. I would THINK both pumps should come on when the key is in the ON position? I just bought and installed two new pumps btw....

Thanks for any help in advance

Scott in Dallas

Consider disconnecting the power to the main pump while troubleshooting. I believe if it is not getting fuel from the in-tank pump, you can burn up that main pump fairly quickly. Just pull apart the connector below the rear seat drivers side.

Check your ground connection at the sender. I think if it isn't grounding properly, the fuel level in the instrument cluster wont register when you have the key in ON position also.
--
'82 245 'worktruk', '83 244 Turbo, '86 244 'traktor', 83' 242 'volcamino'

Scott,

Your 87 LH2.2 car runs both pumps in tandem whenever it runs them. But it only runs them when the engine is turning. There is no 1-second buzz you may have been used to from another model 240 or whatever.

Your tank pump is probably dead or fuse 4 is open. I seem to remember something about you having replaced it. Well, the aftermarket pumps can be early failures as I have discovered. I think you have once before, but your questions kinda make me think you need to read this once more: In The Tank
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Mistakes are the portals of discovery. -James Joyce

Hello all, I thought I would post a follow up in case someone comes across this thread in the future. I have the car fixed. The in tank pump quit working, which I am assuming put too much of a load on the main pump which was original to my 400,000 mile car. Can't complain. What IS interesting is why the in tank pump quit working. I replaced the in tank pump about a year ago, which is WHY I was so baffled as to the possibility that it may have quit working. I removed the in tank pump and sender and after putting 12v to the pump it worked just fine. After doing a continuity test it seems that there was a short where the wires go through the "lid" of the sender. Not sure what to call the circular top part of the sender, but a lid. Anyway, I tried to figure out a way to take apart the oval shaped fitting the wires went through, but it was obvious that I would destroy the thing trying to get it apart. So... I just bought a new VDO sender and put it all back together, WITH a new main pump as well, and my little tank is now plodding the streets of Dallas again. It is the first time since I have owned the car (bought it new) that it has ever stranded me, or any of my family. Amazing little car. After reading Art's fuel pump/system article, and doing all the trouble shooting etc. I am now more confident in my Volvo troubleshooting skills. It's funny, I have had so few problems with this car since new, that I really don't know too much about fixing stuff on it. Unlike my SAAB 900 Turbo, that due to it's constant issues I consider myself an expert on SAAB 900's. Thanks Art :)

Scott in Dallas

Hi Art, Yes, I did install a new pump about a year ago. I just got the sender/pump out of the tank. The pump works when I put 12 volts to it. However, I did a continuity test and for some reason I am NOT getting any continuity through the lid (not sure what to call it). I have continuity from the positive side of the pump to where the black wire is soldered just below the lid. I have continuity from the plastic plug (that plugs into the car harness and changes to yellow/black) to just above the lid. So there is a break somewhere inside the oval fitting where the wires go through the lid. I can't seem to get it apart so I may just have to buy a new sender.. What do you think?

Scott in Dallas