1967 Brake line size/fitting/flares
Does anyone know what the brake line size/fittings/flares are for the front calipers and rear drums are for a 1967 122s sedan with single master and no booster?

Thanks,
Nathan

All,

Thanks for the info- I am re-doing the brakes on my 122s V6 project using the universal Wilwood master cylinder and a remote mount booster I am going to put in the trunk.

I wanted to buy all the fittings and tubing at once so I greatly appreciate the information.

Thanks!

-Nathan

In addition to the flare nut wrenches, invest in a quality tubing bender. I just did all the lines on my 123 and this tool was essential. It is astonishing how a small mis-measurement in angle or length will radically affect where you end up...

Hello,

All of your brake lines are 3/16" internal diameter. All of your brake lines have 3/8" x 24 tpi threaded fittings except for the brake light switch which is 1/8 NPT.

Brake fittings for caliper side of the metal brake line is a bubble flare. The other end of the same brake line is an inverted flare.

Brake fittings for the rear wheel cylinders are inverted flare.

FYI, all of the original wrench sizes for the brake line fittings are metric, but some replacement parts like brake hoses may use a different wrench size, sometimes metric and sometimes standard.

For example, if you have original brake hoses, you will need a 16mm wrench, preferably a line wrench to match the fitting on the hose.


So be careful not to strip any fasteners by using the wrong wrench.


--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

It's worth the cost to buy good tools, if you are the kind of person who takes care of their stuff. They don't have to be Snap-On, just good quality. I have 2 S-K sets, for instance, 1/4" & 1/2" that I got when I was 17, I've used them a lot over the past 51 years. Still intact except for a couple of sockets that broke but were covered under the lifetime warranty. Just before they stoped making their own brand, I bought a complete set of ACE "pro" open end/box wrenches in metric. Nicely finished in chrome. If anyone needs it, I have a 500lb Ammco torque wrench with dial indicator, that was my father's. It had a broken, internal part but my cousin made a new one in his tool and die shop. Works perfectly now. The head bolts on my father's Cat 977 loader required 300 lbs of torque and everything I had to get it up there.

A few years back, I'd been trying to replace a line on a 240. I wrecked it, first using a cheap Harbor Freight line wrench, then a normal open ended wrench, then trying vice grips.

Went to the parts store and asked the clerk for a high quality 11mm/12mm line wrench... to which he said "Are you sure you want to spend $18 on one little wrench?", to which I replied 'the damage I've done with the wrong tools cost me a lot more than $18 in time and parts. Yep, I'll gladly pay that."

Best $18 I ever spent. When it comes to brake lines, don't bother with either cheap, or wrong tools for the job. Spending a little extra on quality tools is most definitely money well spent.
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Nathan;

Matt touched on it but without emphasis, so I'll repeat and emphasize it so you don't miss it...use a "flare nut wrench" on fittings (which picks up five of the six flats of the tubing's nut instead of just two with an open end wrench) ...it's less of an issue with new fittings, of course, but the only way to go...naturally I also advise using Anti-Seize between nuts and tubing and on threads.

Cheers

FWIW if you are ever in a bind for a line wrench, you can cut a slot in a closed wrench, and get a pair of vice grips o stop it from opening, this should be enough to crack open a fitting. The vice grips help legit line wrenches that are a little to flexy for the job as well.
--
Patrick, '68 220 , '53 GMC 4104, '97 VW Transporter.