I have finally sourced a replacement transmission for our '92 960 - two years newer and 65,000 miles younger. What else should I consider doing while I'm in there? I already know about the rear main seal and plan on ordering one of those ASAP so it's not holding up the job but is there anything else?

I have a set of large SUV jacks, any advice on the best points to set them?

So I'm debating on what to do at this point...

The new transmission checks out except for the overdrive solenoid. Its resistance is just under 300ohm but others were within spec. Otherwise the filter and magnets had no debris, good sensors and wiring, fluid was getting old but still showed some signs of red.

The yard has another transmission with 20K more miles than this one, but all other things are unknown. To trade I would have to get help loading it in the truck and go back out there.

I could always put the good S2 in mine and see what happens (mine has high resistance and a persistent 2-2-2 code). It would be a lot of work to do just to find out that there was some kind of mechanical problem going on behind the scenes... the transmission has never behaved 100% in the 7 years we've owned the car.

The SL solenoid currently in the car has good resistance, so I'm thinking about pulling it to put in the new transmission. I'm not 100% sure it's good because the torque converter would slip in and out while driving on the highway, but that might have something to do with the failing S2 or some other mechanical problem.

I'm leaning towards the last option...

6 cylinder or 4 cylinder. Mark the drive shaft before separating.pick up sensor. mark the flywheel position

If you want to be very thorough, consider doing any easy to access tranny seals. Also, I would check out your drive shaft and its mounts. Perfect time to replace/service U-joints, mounts and anything else there while the driveshaft is off.

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Current - 95 855 GLT Sportwagon 255k, Formerly - 90 244 DL 300k

Thanks, that's absolutely the sort of thing I'm looking for! I want this to be a daily driver again once I'm done.

I have never paid any attention to the driveshaft or anything down there we've owned the car since 2008... bad way of going about things I know. The car has almost 190,000 miles so it's probably due U-joint replacement at least. The last thing I want to have to do is jack up the car and disassemble everything again soon.

So at this point I'm looking at
- rear main seal
- front/rear transmission seals
- transmission mount
- u-joint(s)
- Sounds like a good time to replace the fluid in the rear axle as well...

U-joints seem to last a long time in Volvo's. So they are probably fine but worthy looking at.

Take a look at the center bearing support (rubber on 240's, not sure on 960's) on the drive shaft too.

I know it's a lot of work, but you'll only need to do this once and your daily driver should be good to go for a very long time...:)

Good luck!
Jim

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Current - 95 855 GLT Sportwagon 255k, Formerly - 90 244 DL 300k

Thanks, I found a local seller with a working transmission that has 120K miles and I'm picking it up this afternoon if it checks out. Already removed from the car too, and only $175! I plan on buying the controller as well if it's available, otherwise there's always ebay if the car acts up after the swap.

I could get it for cheaper if I trade in the old one, but with my luck what I have now has a component inside that's completely impossible to find and still good that I'll need later. I'll keep it around just in case.

Tomorrow or Saturday I'll jack the car up and start the removal.

Scuba Steve!!!

PADI or NAUI?!?!?!?

I'm PADI Advanced Open Water. Though near no salty water for now.

Unless you have one, or can rent one, installing the rear main bearing seal requires a bearing seal press for proper alignment and ingress depth.

Check and clean the PCV after all you transmission work is done and happy.

New transmission fluid. Use what the owner manual says of a better quality. I dunno what kind.

You know how to do the twisty check of U-joints on the drive shaft and the steering column, yes?

If the motor mounts are questionable, replacement. The B6304 is a torque-filled! (Yet down tuned for the North America market.)

Hope that helps.

Hope all that gts fixed right quick! Success!

Questions?

Thanks,

Duffed.