Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 2/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 7/2003 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Better Cooling 120-130

Anyone know of any tricks to get things running cooler? I just bought a 66 122s and I live in California, everything is doing great so far but when I turn the engine off I notice the temp gauge rises to the lower bar on the HOT 1/3 part of the gauge...is this normal?
Either way, it's gonna be another HOT summer comin up and I'm always looking for ways to cool things down...aside from flushing the rad. fluid what else can I do? Install a tranny cooler?, maybe buy a new radiator? (the one now is OK but a lil beat up)...and it doesn't have an overflow tank...which seems strange...should I upgrade to an overflow tank? Any ideas would help
-Thanks








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Better Cooling 120-130

    Measure the temperature with another gauge.

    I soon found out that the gauge on my '64 544 with a B20 engine was active and scary!

    Even in a 3 hour parade, it cooled well.

    An overflow bottle is a good idea - make sure you use the proper cap with it.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    electric fan 120-130

    This isn't a fix for a cooling system that needs attention, but if once your system is in order and you still have too much heat an electric fan might help. They're automatic and run off a thermal switch. My electric fan sits outside the radiator (in front of it I mean) and the switch is located in the return pipe at the top of the radiator. Looks like a pretty simple installation, although mine could have been better. There used to be several radiator shops in South West Connecticut, all gone now unfortunately.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Better Cooling 120-130

    I agree that it's normal for the temp needle to climb after you shut it off, because the coolant is no longer circulating and the engine block is saturated with heat, so the coolant in the block has no choice but to absorb it. Many years ago I had a Pontiac Firebird, which would not even turn over if you tried to restart it when hot. I think it was due to the pistons & rings expanding after shutting it off. You had to wait at least 15-20 minutes for things to cool down before it would crank. Not a very good situation in S. Texas.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Better Cooling 120-130

      OK - Great! So I should be OK here in Grass Valley if San Fernando wasn't a problem. I'll plan on taking a weekend to check hoses and belts and water pump (seems like it's working fine) ...flush the coolant and think about re-coring the radiator with same densely packed fins not a cheap aftermarket...and setting up an actual temperature gauge that clearly shows temp. (and puts my mind at ease.)
      This is probably a stupid question but does the heater core have anything to do with cooling? does that need to be cleaned or looked at? I was fixing the fan motor and was surprised that coolant flows into that thing...I've been working on Corvairs for the past ten years (air cooled) and never had to deal with heater cores in my modern car (91 toyota)








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Better Cooling 120-130

        Everything reads as normal in your first post. As Phil says the original rad is a good one for its size. If it has no leaks that's even better. If you do remove it for back flushing You may find that some of the fins have started to rot away. Not uncommon but isn't good as it reduces the amount of heat they can disperse. Fin rot can be quite bad so don't be tempted to give the core a quick blast with a pressure washer to clean out the bugs, that will only rip the corroded fins off. Make sure your rad cap is good and of the correct depth. It's only a 4 lbs psi one as standard but can be upped to 7lbs. This will put a bit more strain on the rad so keep that in mind.
        The Corvair and most modern cars use an air blend system to control the heated air. Moderns with a fixed temp heater matrix. Amazon uses variable heat by controlling the amount of hot coolant that flows through the matrix along with an air quantity control. It can be used to help with an little extra cooling in an emergency. Perhaps stuck in traffic @110ยบ!Using the heater now and then helps to keep the valve working properly.








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Better Cooling 120-130

          Ok - great, thanks! So in other words if I was stuck in traffic in 110 degree heat and the temp gauge looked dangerously high, I could blast the heat in the car and help dissipate the engine heat at the expense of being personally uncomfortable...but the real fix is to have a properly working clean and solid system...particularly radiator. Makes sense...Thanks again!








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

            Better Cooling 120-130

            Fwiw...if you stuck in traffic and the gauge starts climbing rev the engine.,..at idle the engine wp does not circulate enough coolant....usually not a problem but if you have been driving hard and then get stuck in traffic it will get pretty hot....you can of course use the heater core to help cool the engine but this does not shed as much heat as a higher idling engine and the concurrent faster spinning fan.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Better Cooling 120-130

    It's normal for the gauge to go to hot when you turn off the engine, no cause for alarm.

    My '66 never had an overflow bottle -- I think that started in '67. It doesn't run any hotter or cooler with one.

    If the radiator is beat up, you should consider having it recored (if you can find a shop that still does stuff like that). Note, though, that the original core is dense, with lots of closely spaced fins. You want another core like that, not a generic one with fewer fins.

    I lived in the San Fernando Valley for 10 years, and never had the car overheat.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Better Cooling 120-130

    I don't know whats normal, but make sure the fluid is fresh and you have the correct thermostat installed. If the radiator is questionable you might want to consider a new one. How is the water pump and belts. Might want to get an IR thermometer so you know exactly what you have,

    Dan







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.