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So, the Young Princess took the wagon out the other day, because the Older Princess was driving the Escort. She came home and said, "Wow, Daddy! That car is sloooooow." Now, she may be used to the Ford, but actually she is right. I know that the 245 is heavy and will never be a speedster, but, truthfully, this one is painfully slow. Entering a freeway is a white-knuckle endeavor, and it takes for-ev-er to get up to speed. Oh, she'll cruise nicely at 75 or so, but when you can time the acceleration with a calendar, I can't help but think something needs adjustment. Fuel pumps are fine. Filters clean. Gave engine two internal cleanings. AMM cleaned. So, I'm wondering if the cam timing is off a cog or two? Before I get into it, am I looking at this correctly, of is there something simpler to review first? Help, please!
B
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Two things to check for, both are easy. Check cam timing. Either it is or isn't correct. Eliminate that one.
Next check for a collapsed catalytic convertor. Hold a rag over the tailpipe have someone rev the engine. You'll feel it - big rush of gases or restricted.
Not much is simpler than that.
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"Before I get into it, am I looking at this correctly, of is there something simpler to review first?"
First something simple but quite overlooked is the shape of the car. It not aerodynamically shaped. It doesn't look fast. Compare this to most cars produced nowadays. No this is not a sports car. Its meant for safety. Tell your daughters that!
Second, some parts of the car do deteriorate at a slow pace but still functioning. The car still runs albeit slower. These are the AFM, fuel injectors, oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If you're willing to replace these the car would fare better!
Basically ensure parts that concerns engine breathing are top notch. Clean air filter, clear flowing converter, good valve lash and so on.
Shed some unnecessary weights in the boot too!
I find that with Volvo you've got to win the small battles to win the war. Because this a thoughtfully designed car not meant for speeding.
Amarin.
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Despite poplar belief, Volvo 240's are not heavy. They weight of a 1990 240 sedan is about 100-300#'s more than a 1990 Accord...and about 300#'s less than a current Chevy Cruze.
That being said, checking timing on a B230F is not difficult and covered in the FAQ's. If it is automatic transmission the rear end is a 3.31 which makes it SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWWW...it is about 12 seconds 0-60. My 1990 DL was oddly quick 0-30 but 30-50 hurt. My 1993 940 is OK 0-50 (4.10 rear end) but painful for anything above.
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Ignition timing being far off can cause that symptom.
But - you needn't diagnose by 'symptom'. Put a degree wheel on it and set up your dial indicator and actually MEASURE the cam timing. That'll tell you if it's timed properly or not.
--
82 242 5.0L; '10 Cayman S; '15 Honda Fit
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Ignition timing is 100% computer controlled on 1989 and later Us market Volvo's.
Cam timing is set by marks on the cam gears and marks...so no degree wheel required to verify factory timing.
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Aware -- however, the fact that ignition timing is computer controlled doesn't guarantee that it's functioning properly, hence the counsel to check. And checking that the 'dot to dot' arrangement is correct won't tell you what the actual valve events are. If you're trying to nail down a potential cam timing issue, then I'd check the actual valve events, not that it was installed dot to dot.
The fact is, that even with everything working correctly, a 100HP (or so) 4 cylinder in a 3100-3200 lb. car makes for leisurely acceleration. I prefer to think of them as gathering speed rather than accelerating.
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82 242 5.0L; '10 Cayman S; '15 Honda Fit
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Does it tick right over when you start it? Especially if it has already been running to be warmed up.
Phil
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It's probably not the cam timing, but let's put that possibility to bed now, and it can easily be done. First of all the engine rotates TWICE for each time the CAM rotates ONCE. So all you need to do is remove the top half of the timing cover so you can see the top cam gear. Take a wrench to the crankshaft and turn the engine by hand while watching the cam gear until the mark on the cam gear is lined up with the mark on the engine. You should only have to rotate the engine a maximum of 2 turns, and it will probably be less. When the cam gear is lined up, the mark on the engine should also be lined up with 0 deg TDC. If it is, then it's correct. If it's not, then it did actually jump.
I'm new to brickboard so I don't know how to upload images yet so you'll have to look up how to change a timing belt to get a picture of what I'm talking about. When you see an image of this, there are three gears. The top gear is the cam gear, the lower right gear is for the distributor, but that one doesn't matter since this car is electronically timed so it will either work, or the car will start missing if the belt slipped. The top one is the only one you have to expose. For the crank, you can look at the pulley. Ignore any marks on the belt itself, they are only there for installation and will probably not align with anything.
I doubt this is your problem, but let's eliminate it from possibilities. It might just be a dirty air filter.
Merry Christmas and Cheers!
HG
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Starts right up. Even when cold.
B
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Uncle Bradley,
As you say you cleaned the AMM (or MAF), did you:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm ?
Socket 2 for Fuel ECU and socket 6 for ignition (and EGR, if fitted).
Any fault condition, if it exist, may not be severe enough to cause the controllers to set a fault code.
As you believe improper cam timing, has the timing belt been replaced at any time (and the tensioner pulley OEM every second timing belt)? Timing belts do stretch, and you reset the timing belt tension using the tensioner pulley lock nut under that funny black rubber grommet sort of in the center of the upper timing belt cover. 16 mm hex (six-point) socket.
Some of the mechanically inclined jet set may turn the harmonic balancer crank pulley, as you face it, barely a degree or so counter clockwise to take slack out of the long run between the timing belt overhead cam gear and the timing belt crankshaft gear (with the intermediate camshaft timing belt gear in-between).
Sometimes merely releasing the timing belt tensioner pulley alone won't force the engine to turn at the timing belt overhead cam gear and the timing belt crankshaft gear, taking all slack out of the timing belt.
It may be best to reset timing belt tension every oil change or 5000 miles. It is the slack in toothed-timing, serpentine, and accessory V-belt that shortens life cycle. Though not too tight or you may shorten the bearing life, unless tension is controlled as with your Volvo 240 four-cylinder timing belt.
Other will have better suggestions for diagnosis.
Usually the timing belt slips, the performance suffers if the timing belt gear pulley alignment is off. Engine timing may cause power loss, engine pre-ignition (valve ping), loss of fuel economy, and worse. Once a timing belt slips, usually as it is either old and must be replaced, or the owner ignores resetting the tension, or the tensioner is about to fail, the belt will slip again, causing a poor running condition of some sort.
You may need top remove the water pump pulley belts, the harmonic balancer crank shaft pulley, and remove the timing belt cover. You rotate the engine up to four full rotations (I think, I flunked math) to align the marks on the timing belt, the alignment markers on the three pulley / gears, aligned with the timing marks on the valve cover back plate. It helps to clean and mark the timing marks (all three sets, unless the timing belt marks are bright white or yellow) with white correction fluid or white paint applied judiciously.
If you remove the upper timing belt cover, and feel slack in the belt, that's a first clue you may need to re-align your timing belt.
If you are uncertain as to timing belt and tensioner pulley replacement, you may wish to replace these items. It can get sort of messy and smelly if the tensioner pulley grinds to a halt or comes off the tensioner pulley assembly while the engine still rotates. Can damage the plastic timing belt cover and plastic back plate.
Some may suggest using a timing light to verify alignment. I dunno how to do that, if so. Hope so.
Else, the usual tune up suspects. Check you OBD-1. How are them spark plugs, rotor, and cap? Is your Volvo 249 fitted with EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). EGR Fault codes are mostly on the OBD-1 socket six (spark) with a few on socket two (fuel).
Do you have a clean air filter, and do you know how old your fuel filters are? Do you or not have the silver accordion pre-heater engine air intake hose connected to the on-exhaust port (manifold) pre-heater plate and connected to the air-filter box? Hot air when the engine is warm can cause valve ping and a lean-like- running condition. Do you have any air intake leaks? Proper sparks plugs?
My three very boring and stock 90s 240s with manual transmission go from 0 to 60 in around 10-12 seconds, I guess. I'm not sure. Fast enough for me and to merge with highway traffic and such. Yet I don't really care about going any faster than the posted speed limit.
Questions and comments?
Hope that helps.
Egg-NAWG Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
--
"The nog, nowadays, in teh egg nog is the high fructose corn syrup.
"Not the egg nog of the 1970s as it was then. Much better.
"LOL Cats say, 'teh' and not 'the'."
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