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High NO Reading In Exhaust 200 1992

So, I was compelled by the Great State of Ohio to get my biannual emissions test before renewing my plates, the other day. And while I really don't mind (especially since the test is free) other than the time spent at the testing facility, something gave me pause. Yes, she passed, but I had occasion to look at the test results and noted that the Nitrous Oxide level, while within spec, was at the high end of the scale (870 ppm on a max of 917 ppm). I asked my brother-in-law about these numbers (he's ASE certified in about 60 different fields and has been working on my vehicles for years) and after review of these and comparing them to the previous few tests, he indicated that the higher reading was indicative of the EGR slowly failing. He then explained the theory behind the EGR and gave me a thumbnail sketch of how it works. Very interesting, actually.

So, after all that, I took a look a the whole of the EGR system and noted that there seem to be a few components to the thing: The valve itself, and a couple of controllers. All fairly pricey, and all working as a system.

Query: Is there any one of those components that is more prone to failure than the others? Or, since it seems to be a case of "creeping deterioration" would I be best served by removing the whole thing and perhaps cleaning it, since many engine parts on this car seen to have a penchant for getting stuffed, clogged, plugged or otherwise just dirty enough to cause a drivability problem? Any suggestions welcome.

B








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    High NO Reading In Exhaust 200 1992

    My first reaction is that a vacuum leak or carbon deposits are WAY more likely than a failing EGR system.
    I say that simply because of how many failures for NOx are just from intake leaks.

    High NOx emissions are caused by high temperatures in the combustion process. EGR lowers the temps by inserting inert gas. A lot of things besides a flakey EGR system will cause this though.



    Anyway. I would say the valve and the vacuum-flap solenoid thing mounter on the fender-well are the most likely culprits. The valve itself because it's in a very inconvenient position... I mean because it ahs moving parts and dirty exhaust air flowing through it. Same with the solenoid, but the valve is more likely I think.

    You can remove it and clean it with brake cleaner fairly easily :) If that doesn't help (how will you know if it does?), a round of Seafoam/Distilled Water will help clear out carbon deposits.

    Cheers!








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    High NO Reading In Exhaust 200 1992

    it is the nature of the beast. the B230

    One thing is carbon build up. Techron in the tank. If you're really concerned.

    BG 44K® Fuel System Cleaner can be bought only from a repair shop, not on-line or at Wallyworld...$15 to 20 a can.

    https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/#bg-product-1

    that shop that sell it can also go a step up and do a job with more corrosive solvents.

    But as long as it "passes"...donna sweat it.


    so how long until you can acquire Historic Plates in Ohio and dispense with the test altogether.

    If you look at the NOX specs for a SUV, the pass has much higher cut off.








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      High NO Reading In Exhaust 200 1992

      No more testing after 25 years. My '79 MGB and my '83 VW Rabbit Convertible already benefit from collectors plates.

      B








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    Does your car have EGR? (NMI) 200 1992








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      Does your car have EGR? (NMI) 200 1992

      Well, finally looked, and, guess what? Not there! I suppose we both should have confirmed that bit of news before I got all worked up. So, now what? What's the possible cause of the high NO?

      B








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        Does your car have EGR? (NMI) 200 1992

        Hiya again Uncle Bradley,

        Again, try the OBD-1 for the Bosch LH-Jet (fuel) and Bosch EZK (I dunno wot 1xxK version there are) ignition.

        Since your 1992 240 is not fitted with EGR, thankfully, well, other high oxides of nitrogen cause may be caused by):
        - Very lean fuel to air ratio, heating up the combustion chamber beyond normal combustion temps.
        - An exhaust leak high up at where the exhaust port (manifold) secures to the cylinder head, or, possibly, at the exhaust port to exhaust header pipe flange interface.
        - An air intake leak between the air filter, and more so, after the AMM (or MAF) seals against the intake side of the black accordion hose and the air cylinder head air intake inlets. You may want to remove and inspect the black accordion hose. Holes can form where ever the black accordion hose contacts anything. You can reinstall and align the black accordion hose to touch nothing, if you're careful.
        - And air intake leak at the fuel injector seals (they have to be bad)
        - Carbon build up on valve seats and valve body preventing inlet and exhaust valve sealing closed on time.
        - Spark plugs are too hot / wrong temp.
        - Weak or low current or voltage condition on main fuel pump / prepump due to fuse corrosion or other corrosion on bonding faces of connector along wire harness route. (Bad ground, corrosion in fuse box.)

        + The fuel injector grounds can corrode. There is a Volvo tech
        service bulletin. You'll see a hex head bolt on intake port
        runners #3 & #4 that secure sheathed brown wires with
        ring terms. The type stainless can cause the light aluminum
        air intake port allow to corrode, and also cause the
        copper wire conductor to corrode where it is crimped in
        the ring terminal barrel. The Volvo TSB recommends
        flowing solder into the ring term barrel, or maybe
        cutting off the ring terms, and replacing them, yet
        solder the fuel injector ground wire copper conductor
        to the ring terminal barrels. You may want to use a
        die-electric or conductive corrosion-inhibiting
        grease like NoOX or De-OX, or use a durable
        grease on the bonding surfaces of the fuel
        injector ground wire termination. Adjust torque
        (reduce) if you got some lubricant on the 10 mm
        bolt heads.

        - Fuel delivery issue causing anemic fuel deliver into cylinder on intake stroke. (The last thing to check, if you have to go this far.)

        Do the dry stuff first, like electrics, and leave the wet stuff, like checking fuel injector rail pressure, for last.

        EGR is sort of effective at reducing nitrogen oxides in exhaust, at about a mile per gallon reduced fuel economy. In spite of the 240 mass versus the very heavy B19/21/23/230 engine with relatively low power for the engine weight, a well tuned and CARED FOR Volvo 240 engine and systems, with a good catalytic converter, can burn about as cleanly as even a new or LEV (low emission vehicle). The Volvo 240 is not so good about burning as cleanly when you floor it.

        If the final Volvo 240 B230 engines were built when variable valve timing was a proven design, and were fitted with VVT, well, they could perform most sprightly without turbo and maybe put out around 150-160 HP (not a whole lot).

        Your oxides of nitrogen are very high for your make and year 240, so I suspect the causes listed above.

        Other can suggest other causes.

        Questions and comments.

        Volvo "Egg-NAWG Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" Mac Duff.
        --
        "My right to cream my morning strong black tea or coffee with egg nog on Merry Kiss My Arse morning."








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