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Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

Hi everyone.
Hope this finds you all well....

I have a 1986 Volvo 240 that has been parked for awhile but now I need to get it operational once again.
This car has carried my two oldest daughters through their early years of driving and now I have a third daughter that will be getting her license, shortly.

My problem has to do with the heat in the car.
This is a problem that caused me to park the car over a year ago and I never found the time to try to fix the problem.

Anyway, the problem is that the car is hot in the summer and cold in the winter.
If driven in the summer the heater seems to be putting out hot air but in the winter the air never gets more than barely lukewarm. This car used to have a heater that would drive you out of the cabin, if it wasn't regulated.

I've checked the cable going to the heater control valve and it does seem to be opening and closing the valve, at least it is moving the lever.
My concern is that the heater control "slide lever" moves quite a bit easier than it used to.

I'm wondering if the valve could have possibly malfunctioned internally. I don't know if internally this is like a ball valve, (either opened or closed) but it almost feels as if it's not operating on the inside.

In case this is what is happening I was wondering if I could possibly replace the heater control valve with a simple ball valve. I have access to all sizes and styles of ball valves where I work and I'm certain that I could plumb one in much easier than I could replace the heater control valve.

Of course the valve would have to be operated manually, (off in the summer and on in the winter), but that would not be a problem. I could even regulated the amount of flow through the valve by partially opening or closing it.

I just didn't know if the heater control valve is a simple on/off style of valve or if it is more complicated than that. If anyone can give me some insight on whether or not this will work I would greatly appreciate it.

Also, I'm going to make another post in a second concerning a rather wonky temperature gauge. Please take the time to read and respond to that post as well.

Thanks, guys.

Dave
--
I dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road without having its motives questioned.








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    Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

    I add a me-too to Bruce S and his suggestion to go for the one Dave has made and offers on Wagonmeister.com This is your daughter and she deserves something that works like it should. Also, that time you ran short of won't be wasted.
    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    Men can read smaller print than women can; women can hear better.








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      Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

      All of you have made valid points.

      I've contacted Dave about one of his heater control valves and also about a new cluster since mine has been giving me some problems, (tach and odometer not working, lights burned out, wonky speedometer, etc).

      Now I just need to see if my old body will contort into the position that is needed to change the control valve. If the repair becomes too painful I can always take it to a friend who does mechanic work.

      Thanks for the help and advice. Hopefully within a few weeks the old girl will be running again.

      Dave
      --
      I dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road without having its motives questioned.








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    Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

    Take a look at what this guy has to offer, wagonmeister.com. Its well made, works well, and comes with instructions. He's also a contributor here on the Brick Board.
    --
    Bruce S. near D.C.








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    Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

    Ages ago in a land far away from Brickboard I put a 1/2" gate valve in place of the stock heater control valve. It worked fine. A ball valve might have been a better choice. A cheap fix and if you decide to locate a stock or Ford valve you can just swap it out.

    Greg








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    Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

    Check your heater control valve, sound like the problem.
    I changed mine recently, the Ford motorcraft on is a very good one, much better than the aftermarket.








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      Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

      Thanks for the input guys....

      I guess I'll decide between using a ball valve or a Ford control valve. It looks like I'm going to be in a painful position trying to take the old one out so I'm looking for a quick and easy way to put something back in it's place.

      Thanks again.
      --
      I dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road without having its motives questioned.








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        Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

        "I guess I'll decide between using a ball valve or a Ford control valve."

        Be advised that the so-called "Ford" valve (also used on other makes) is vacuum-controlled. It works as a direct replacement on the 700/900 cars, but I'm not sure it will replace the mechanically operated 240 heater control valve.

        Maybe it will work - if the 240 control wire can be connected to actuate the normally vacuum operated mechanism on the Ford valve.

        --
        Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.








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    Possibly you need a new heater core ..... 200

    The human skin's sensoria is really a lousy judge of temperature. What you really need is to measure (thermocouple probe, or the newer IR remote thermometers) the temperature increase of the air going through the vents (via the core) compared to ambient temperature.

    Heater output that feels hot in the summer could be that, in summer weather, you're relatively intolerant of even a little additional heat and it's uncomfortable, but in reality very little additional heat has been added to the existing heat content of the air blowing through the core..

    Likewise, heater output that's barely warm in the winter could be that there simply isn't enough heat being added to the ambient air blowing through the core to make it hot enough for you.

    Thus, your observations could stem from a heater core that's all clogged up, either externally from leaves and other dirt, or else internally from precipitate mineral deposits from the coolant solution.

    Or, if it isn't a blocked core, then for some other reason, you don't have enough coolant flowing to the core from the engine.








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    Sort of a strange question concerning heater control..... 200

    Don't know about the valve internal operation but I added an addition 5/8" plastic valve from NAPA to address a 'not all the way off' summer time problem.







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