Newbie here. This month I picked up a 1995 960 wagon. It's a black on black one-owner car with 114K on the clock. If permitted I'll upload a photo or two. This is my first Volvo, but 4th euro wagon in 8 years. I bought it as a commuter/utility vehicle as I also daily drive an MX-5.

OK...for my dumb question...I don't understand why the air filter box has two intakes: one from the scoop in front of the radiator and also what seems to be a large open (and threaded) hole-to-nowhere directly opposite the main intake and below the air filter. I'll upload a photo if permitted. If this is a dumb question - please go easy on me.

Best regards,

JR
Charleston, SC

A loud screech at the end of the steering range might well be the relief valve in the power steering.

When the steering reaches its stops, there is no place for the pressure generated to go, so it trips a relief valve. Since steering pressure is quite high, this valve makes noise as it works, sometimes cycling into a prolonged noise.

To test for this, turn the wheel all the way in one direction and at the stop, if you try to turn out a bit more, it will probably make a noise. If you back off a bit, the noise will stop.

The cure is to avoid forcing the steering against the stops - as you become accustomed to the car, you will probably have no trouble with this.

Is your car based on the 850 body? If so, there are some spoon-like parts in the steering linkage that act as the mechanical steering stops.

As part of periodic maintenance, grease is applied to these spoons to keep them from making noise.

Turn the wheels almost ball the way to one side and look under the car - you will probably see these spoons and if they are dry, you can put some grease on them - almost anything will work.

Good luck with your Volvo!

Dear charlestonmapman,

Hope you're well and welcome to www.brickboard.com!! I stood aside to allow one of the Board's bonafide 960 experts to reply. I don't own/operate a 960. However, I have a copy of Volvo VADIS, a Volvo dealer's superseded parts/service database. The parts diagrams often shed light on questions such as your's.

I believe the airbox opening in question is for a metal tube, that goes from the exhaust manifold to the air box. This tube brings air, warmed by the exhaust manifold, to the airbox. On start-up and for a few minutes thereafter, the warm air promotes more complete fuel combustion, and so reduces unburned fuel.

This metal tube is part #3528418, which costs about $45 at a Volvo dealer. You might also need a hose, part #3547464, which is about #20.

I'd guess that the car can be run safely without this tube, but as it is part of the emissions control system, it may have to be replaced, if your state conducts emissions tests. I'm told that in some states, the absence of an emissions-control part causes a car to fail the emissions test. That is, every factory-installed part in the emissions-control system must be present.

You should consult this site's FAQs (upper left corner of this page), for a list of things that every new 960 owner should do.

First and foremost, if you do not have documentary proof that the timing belt and tensioner were changed - that is, a receipt with date, mileage, and part names/numbers present - you should do this AT ONCE, i.e., within the next 48 hours. Do not drive the car, until a new timing belt and tensioner have been installed.

The reason: the six-cylinder engine used in 960s is of an "interference" design. If the timing belt breaks - or if the timing belt tensioner or water pump seizes - valves strike the pistons. At very lease, bent valves mean a head job, which costs about $2,000. At worst, a valve punches a hole in a piston, ruining the engine.

I hope you do not think me alarmist. I'm not. I've read posts from those, who acquired 960s, and lacking records, regretted that they did not at once change, or get changed, the timing belt and tensioner. By contrast, the B230 engine used in 240s, 740s, some 760s, and 940s, is of a non-interference design. On a non-interference engine, if a timing belt breaks, or if a tensioner fails, the engine simply stops. There's no damage to anything.

Most, who contribute to this board, are of the view that the only "dumb" question is the question not asked. So, if you have a question, it is - by definition - a "good" question.

Hope this helps and that you and yours having a Happy Thanksgiving!!

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Sir,

Thank you very much for a great reply. I had my 960 at my long-time indy shop today (a volvo specialist shop by chance) and the head mechanic confirmed your explanation of the additional intake. As SC is the wild west of the East Coast, emissions are irrelevant here. My mechanic advised me against restoring the missing tubing. The intake is not sucking in air, which means the valve inside is working properly.

Your alarm about the timing belt spurred me to quick action, though I was largely aware of the seriousness already. I'm new to working on cars and a bit ashamed to tell that I had my indy shop do the timing belt/tensioner/pump kit for me. It was approximately $700 in parts and labor. My mechanic even had advised me that I could certainly attempt it myself. But since it was a critical part in need of immediate care, I turned it over to the pros. My mechanic could tell that the previous owner had changed only the belt, and not the pulleys. They showed early signs of failure. I feel very lucky to have had the service done when I did, at 114K.

I'm learning my way around the vehicle, replacing bulbs and repairing trim pieces. The car is in very good shape overall. My mechanic said it was the best looking 960 of its age that he has come across. Next up: hunt down the loud creak in my steering that occurs at low speed turns with the wheels at their extremes (during a three point turn or turning in and out of garage). I also have to track down the reason for a radio that plays only FM static. I know that here is an amp in between the factory head unit and the side cargo area window mounted antennae. I just have to figure out how to determine if the amp is at fault (I checked fuse box already), or some type of short in the head unit. Fortunately, the code I called the dealer for did work on the head unit after the battery was disconnected this morning to crimp on new contacts. That was a bonus fix at the indy shop this morning, which seems to have cleared up a voltage issue stemming from a bad battery connector.

Best regards from South Carolina,

JR

Can you tell me of a good repair shop in Charleston? I have a broken car at Volvo of Chas and I am not impressed.