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Leaking water pump 1800 1972

posted by  Whale on  Sat Nov 22 23:53 CST 2014
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last visit: Fri Jun 14 19:52 CST 2013
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Being a new owner, I felt it necessary to clean up the engine bay. After getting it spotless, I noticed a leak in the rear where the oil pan meets the block. I originally thought it was a rear main seal but the color of the fluid was anti freeze. Tracing it back to the origin it appeared to be coming from the front upper part of the engine. Other than the heater pipe outlet and thermostat housing, which are not leaking, I don't know of any other water source other than the water pump? A long explanation to ask a couple of basic questions:
1. Are their any other sources?
2. Do I have to remove the fan and the hood to remove the radiator or does it lift straight up?
3. What is the trick to getting at the fan bolts?
4. My fan doesn't spin freely when pushed with the engine off. I thought the viscous drive was supposed to spin freely until the got up to a temp where it would engage and be driven?








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    Leaking water pump 1800 1972

    posted by  planetman on  Sun Nov 23 01:34 CST 2014
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:29 CST 2014
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    The water pump is the usual culprit, but water can leak from one of the front core plugs in the head or the head gasket. And since you have a fuel injected car, the leak could be coming from the auxiliary air valve or from the water temperature sensor for the fuel injection, both located on the front of the head.

    Borrow/rent a pressure tester and know for sure. Some of the large auto parts stores have tools for rent/loan. Our local Autozone has such a program. They make you pay full price for the tool, but you can return the tool after using it and they refund the full purchase price.

    You don't have to remove the hood to remove the radiator and you probably can't remove the fan with the radiator installed if you have a fan clutch.

    It is supposed to be possible to remove the radiator with the fan shroud attached if you have 1, but I have never been able to do so without scrapping the fan blades on the radiator. So even though it is a pain, I remove the screws that retain the fan shroud. If all 4 screws are installed, you can get to 3 of them easily, but the 1 nearest the steering box is a little easier to access after you have removed the hoses and radiator bolts and with the radiator lifted up, hopefully with the aid of an assistant. After removing the screws you won't be able to remove the fan shroud, but move the fan shroud out of the way and you can then remove the radiator by lifting it straight up.

    The trick to getting to the fan bolt is to remove the radiator, then remove the bolt in the center of the fan clutch, then slide the fan & clutch assembly off.

    The fan clutches used on pre-1976 Volvos are not the thermal type so they are supposed to turn with some resistance even when cold.







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      Appropriate lower out seal choice 1800 1972

      posted by  Whale on  Thu Jan 8 11:56 CST 2015
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      last visit: Fri Jun 14 19:52 CST 2013
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      Planetman,
      Thanks for the procedural info with regard to removing the radiator. It did lift right out without being restricted by the hood.
      After removing my water pump, I discovered the source of the leak. It was the lower pump seal on the pipe delivering water to the lower radiator hose. The previous installer had pinched the seal causing a gap. The pump itself was fine.
      I had previously purchased a replacement and am curious about the difference in impeller material. The impeller on the previously installed pump is a composite, whereas the replacement is what appears to be cast aluminum? Which is the better longevity choice to install?
      Another question is, the new seal package contains two different sizes for the pump’s upper outlet passages. I have a B20F engine. Should I use the taller or shorter seals? Should I also apply silicone to the seals as a leak prevention backup?







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        Appropriate lower out seal choice 1800 1972

        posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Thu Jan 8 13:51 CST 2015
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        last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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        Do not use any sealant on the "above the pump seals" -- or either of the two metal tube seals. A tiny smear of grease or vaseline is helpful to get them to slide into position. Install the two tube seals on the tubes then insert the tubes into the pump.
        Volvo used to make a thicker head gasket to lower the compression ratio for motors with detonation problems - or the unavailability of premium (not so much of a problem now with 10 percent ethanol added in most locales). The fatter "above the pump" seals are meant to compensate for the head being further from the block deck when the thicker gasket is used. Use the thinner seals unless you know the motor has the thicker head gasket. You will need to lever the pump upward, squashing the two upper seals (I use two phillips screwdrivers in the two lower bolt holes and then catch the upper mounting bolts) to allow the bolt holes to align. I use a little grease smeared on the paper gasket as well. -- Dave








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      Leaking water pump 1800 1972

      posted by  Whale on  Sun Nov 23 19:14 CST 2014
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      last visit: Fri Jun 14 19:52 CST 2013
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      Planetman, thanks for discreptive reply. I am fairly sure it is the water pump unless there is a core plug in the front high up behind the water pump. After I cleaned up the engine to almost spotless, I could tell that the thermostat housing, head gasket, aux valve or temp sensor were not the culprits. My radiator does have fan shroud.






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