|
|
|
My test for a clogged box is to remove the oil-filler cap, run a hose down to the separator (still installed on the block), gently blow air through it. If it's free, it passes; if there's noise (from chunks moving around), or resistance, I pull it and clean/ replace.
Does this seem a reasonable test?
I used to clean/replace all of them but I found that if air passed through easily, I didn't get much out of them: fill with gasoline, soak several days, tap gently, shake.
This came up recently when I worked on a car with a rear-main and a front cam-seal leak. Box was plugged solid - no air flow. I replaced the cam seal as it's easy; we'll see on the rear-main.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
I clean them. The blow test works and confirms. If it didn't, I'd cut it open, clean it and then re-assemble.
They may be cheap but why spend the time ordering it and waiting for its arrival?
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks. You just reseal with glue?
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
Haven't done it because cleaning has worked. But I'd use a hole saw to access the chamber, then cover the hole with a removable screw on plate.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I tried six ways from Sunday to clean the one on my 940T and was unsuccessful. I used gas, carb cleaners, acetone etc, and could not clean it. When I finally gave up I cut it in half on the band saw to see what was inside. The result can be seen in the FAQs. There is such a tiny hole inside between the sections, that it is nearly impossible to do a good job cleaning them out. New ones are so inexpensive that I will not waste my time trying to clean them in the future.
JD
|
|
-
|
|
|
I just change the oil every 3k and the separators never get clogged.
|
|
-
|
|
|
And I change the oil in my cars every 5000 kilometers, which is about the same. However, when I buy used Volvos the previous owners have rarely been as diligent.
Additionally, changing the oil on short intervals is not necessarily going to prevent your flame trap from plugging. It is largely a function of how you drive.
JD
|
|
-
|
|
|
It's the same for me: testing/cleaning the flame trap is part of the process of getting a newly-acquired 240 ready for someone to drive.
I'VE heard that synthetic oil, occasional Sea Foam, and highway driving will keep the oil-seperator box clean indefinitely. I'm skeptical.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
Do tell on the largely part about the driving? Im sure dirty oil is a big factor in the clogging of the breather box.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Dirty oil certainly plays a role in a clogged flame trap but so do driving habits. If the car is constantly driven in such a manner that accumulation of excess scummy white condensate is evident, the flame trap will clog more readily. A lifetime of low speed short distance driving does not help.
Just my opinion. As is my recommendation to swap out the flame trap on higher mileage vehicles, especially ones for which you do not know their history.
JD
|
|
-
|
|
|
I tried six ways from Sunday to clean the one on my 940T and was unsuccessful. I used gas, carb cleaners, acetone etc, and could not clean it. When I finally gave up I cut it in half on the band saw to see what was inside. The result can be seen in the FAQs. There is such a tiny hole inside between the sections, that it is nearly impossible to do a good job cleaning them out. New ones are so inexpensive that I will not waste my time trying to clean them in the future.
JD
|
|
-
|
|
|
with the effort required to remove it for cleaning, just replace it. i like to do them every 100k. easy way to tell is to have a new 1 and weigh with the old 1. the old 1s are always heavier and never clean up enough. good luck, chuck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
That's a good tip on weighing them.
I agree on cleaning being a marginal solution but some of the cars I work on belong to folks who don't have any extra money.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
how do you clean them w/out taking them out? how much are they new? you must be better than me. i USED to take them off and soak them until i got some scales. the before and after results didn't pay off. then we sold them-period.
if it's that important, get a couple of used spares, clean the hell out of them and swap them in when you have to. i used to do that with the brass flame traps until the boss realized we weren't selling that many. of course, brass is easier to soak clean than plastic. fewer passages, also. good luck, chuck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I take them out for cleaning. I have spares and do exactly that: soak, clean, soak, clean, .....
I don't know what Volvo ones cost. Aftermarket are cheap but have a high failure rate and you can lose a lot of oil.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
|
|
|
