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Hi guys,
I am trying to figure out if the paint on my '84 245 can be salvaged.
The car is metallic grey. I think '84 was the first year that this color was offered. It used to be a nice, dark blue/grey. Not only has it faded, but the clearcoat is peeling on the hood and roof. There are some spots on the roof where it looks like the clearcoat is completely worn through. The paint, or whatever it is, underneath those spots, is white (??).
Could I get away with sanding the hood and roof, reapplying the clearcoat, and then waxing or buffing the rest of the body to deal with the dullness?
I have thought about a respray but no idea what that would cost.
Thanks
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I don’t know what sort of 'car painting franchises' you might have in your area, but we have mainly Maaco, Earl Scheib and Miracle. Had our ‘89 wagon painted at Miracle AFTER I got written estimates at Maaco and another Miracle.
I presented the written estimates to another Miracle and they beat the estimate prices considerably, even offering me their 'top' paint job at a great price. He also threw in a coat of clear, but I then asked about a second clear coat and for $150 he would do the 2 clear coats. I picked out a gray metallic I saw and liked on a new Toyota, got the ‘formula code’ which was ‘T9’ and he looked it up and mixed it to match 'T9'.. (I was told that Toyota calls that particular color 'Montery Grey'.) All for $1100 plus tax.
One of the big 'secrets' is to take the time to get written estimates and present them at another paint place and most likely that place will meet or beat the written estimates. It was worth it to me . The paint job is 2 years old and still looks great.
Another thing I did was to order a great paint sealer off the 'net: Wolfgangs Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for $39.99 plus shipping. http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wg5500.html, It's not a wax. A bit pricey but it goes a long ways, and to me is worth every penny.
(Wolfgangs’ has other products you might find interesting.) It’s a silicone base and has kept our paint job looking really good. Easy to use. .
Good luck. By the way, our brick did not need any body work, no dents or dings or rust, so that helped in keeping the price 'down'.
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This isn't a comment on or criticism of anyone's choices.
I'm just amazed when someone is able to spend this much on 240 cosmetics. Maybe because mine are work cars & Winter drivers; or maybe I just lack a true appreciation for them.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
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Not at all! You appreciate them as work cars and winter drivers. Others, sensing that the newest 240 is now 20 years old, might have elevated them to collector status. Many own them as safe cars for their children to drive. A trip to the bodyshop might not only be for 'cosmetics' either. These things are somewhat prone to rust, and like a trip to the mechanic for a tune-up, a trip to the body man for a look-see is sometimes just a wise investment.
B
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I do appreciate the cars. We've had them for a long time. But the salt here dissolves them underneath and a paint job won't stave that off. I've gone to NC, SC, VA to get them; just brought one back from S KY for myself.
I'm helping a friend do one now for his son. Nice-looking car - repainted a few years ago. Good miles, perfect interior. But it's from upstate NY: A-arms are thin, engine cradle is thin, no backing plates, stabilizer links are hourglassed - one snapped in two. And the carrier-support cradle was so thin that I twisted it into an S by hand after I removed it.
Oddly, the undercoating held and the floors are mostly solid.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
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I guess another reply is due; I do go for the cosmetics, but first is the brick be safe and dependable. I've spent much on maintenance, upgrades, etc. Last thing was replacing the, hmm, what do you call it? The undercarriage suspension thing? Some reason I can't seem bring the term to mind at the moment. The suspension has been 'heavily upgraded', many upgrades from IPD. The A/C has been upgraded; new shocks, struts, tires etc.
Engine runs like new even after 300k. Oh, recently had complete brake job and I do mean complete: new rotors, calipers, pads, new stainless steel brake lines, new master cylinder. Replaced all mufflers and exhaust pipes last year, new cat.. Windshield has been replaced. I might 'overdue ' upkeep at times, but what the hey?
Paint job is just a 'topping to the cake' so to speak. The interior is not far from new looking. Dependabilty and safety always and should come first.
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I understand. Sounds like it's your primary car. When my wife and I were working, I would go south and buy nice ones. But we drove a lot then and in 3-4 years they were starting to deteriorate underneath. So we'd sell those and get Southern replacements.
It's probably cavalier for me to say cosmetics aren't important. My cars now aren't that bad. But they're not that nice either. We use them to haul - load up the inside, tie things to the roof rack; and sometimes I tow a small trailer.
Mechanically: I agree, safety 1st. I sometimes do preemptive replacements on seals, belts, brakes, fuel filter, bushings, .... Exhaust, I'm more lenient: I'll weld and patch as long as feasible.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
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As good as the above recommendations are, I feel compelled add the following: Any bodyshop will tell you that perhaps 80% of the success or failure of a paint job lies in the prep work. Before painting. This includes taping, of which you have little control. Where you DO have control depends upon how handy you are. When I had my cars painted, I gently removed everything that could get in the way of a smooth job: mirrors, trim, mouldings, grille, bumpers, all lights, antenna and handles. While the painter had the car, I cleaned, polished and touched up all those bits. Replaced fasteners and clips, as needed. Put it all back together when I got the cars back. Body shops appreciate not having to tape over all the trim, there's less chance of drips, paint gets to all the surfaces, and it's easier to freshen up those parts when they're off the car. As a bonus, many shops will discount the job, depending upon how much prep work you do before the car comes in. For me, the savings was substantial.
B
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Replying to above: I did do one thing befoe the paint job. I removed the roof rack. Bought all new 'grommets' so when the paint was set, dry, and good and ready, I replaced the rack. That did save a buck or 2.
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once the clear-coat goes your only option which yields a satisfactory long term result is strip it off and repaint the color coat and re clear.
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Search the internet about this and read about it. I don't think there are any good options.
I've had several 240s in that color. All had some peeling on the hood and roof. On one I sanded the hood and painted it flat black. It looked fine but perhaps I'm not the best judge: 240s are drivers/ work cars to me and IDC really how they look.
I've done the black hood on other makes of cars also, some also silver/grey.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
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