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I am doing the heater hoses on my 1991 240 tomorrow. I have it drained down and one of the hoses off and the other removed from the heater core end. I know this is a major pain of a job and the one under the manifold seems to be the worst. I know that holding the hose clamps so you can tighten them is one of the problems. I was able to get them all loose and gently removed the heater core end after razor cutting them lengthwise.
Anyway, I did a search and didn't come up with much, I guess because there really aren't many options except to take them off and put the new ones on! I ran out of daylight and didn't get the one off the pipe under the manifold. I am a pretty small guy with average sized hands and arms as far as being able to reach into tight places. Any help is appreciated.
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I pull the intake manifold. Good opportunity to replace intake-manifold gasket, check flame box, check wires to sensors, ... I did one last weekend and replaced the heater-core hoses.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
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Wow what disatererous time you had. I have always just sliced hose at each connection twist off, clean nipple and replace setting the clamps up for easy access for the next time.
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Wow, what a ball buster of a job. It flat kicked my butt and I had already drained it down, and gotten one hose off in advance! It took me 12 hours today but, I ran into a miriad of problems Like, dropping a socket into the header pipe when I decided to drop it for easier access to the coolant pipe that runs outside the engine which I removed to install the lower heater hose! And, it just all takes time. I flushed the heater core with white vinegar, and for some reason, the stuff coming out of the heater core was oily. I kept dumping small amounts of distilled water into the top tube of the heater and then using my mouth and another hose blew into the hose and the liquid would come blasting out of the other tube and it was oily for some reason. this was before I started using the white vinegar. And, it continued to look oily until towards the end, finishing with a couple of rinses with distilled water.
I had a couple old hoses crack and had to improvise like, cut the cracked portion away, and choke up on the hose. I also broke the little nipple off the flame trap and, my spare flame trap is the old angled one and, I had a hell of a time rigging that to work until I can get a new one. You name it, and it happened to me today. This is one of the hardest repairs that I have done, and I have done thousands. It was mostly crap going wrong, losing parts and tools, problems taking that coolant pipe off, until I dropped the header pipe, and then dropped a damn socket into it and couldn't get it out with a magnet, and then ran into problems dropping the header pipe all costing me at least another hour and probably more I did follow the rules listed like, no tap water or no orange coolant however, I didn't pull the coolant sensor under #3. I still don't know if I have any leaks and if it will run since I had it so far apart. I also pulled and cleaned the throttle body, IAC both for easier access to those damn hoses. A lesser man would have given around hour one. I am either not very smart, or stubborn as hell because this was one hell of a pain in the @$$ of a job. But, I didn't quit or give up or stop for 12 hours. No lunch, no dinner. Hope I don't have any leaks!!
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Remove the throttle body to increase access. If you haven't done it in a while, clean the intake parts, including idle air control. Change the thermostat if you're not sure of it's pedigree.
When installing the clamps, make sure they are oriented so you can easily get a tool on them after everything is back in place
--
89 240 wagon, 94 940, 215K, 94 940, 141K
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Thanks guys! I have the throttle body, IAC, snorkel, flame trap stuff, and I may pull the water pump to heater core pipe, put the hose on the pipe off the car, and reinstall it. I have gotten a lot of the stuff off out of the way and, that is making it easier. I found an old post where one guy pulled the intake manifold off. I sure as hell don't want to have to do that. I already have a lot of stuff off the car, I am just skeered about all the potential spots that can leak. I have a donut seal for where the heater pipe meets the water pump, a new thermostat and seal. These "new" Volvo hoses don't look nearly as robust as the ones that came off of it.
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Continental hoses are Volvo OEM.
Do not use orange antifreeze in that redblock engine. Use the green, like Prestone, or a better quality, silicone free antifreeze many recommend here.
If not using pre-mix coolant, than you're using antifreeze. And we only mix distilled, de-mineralized, or deionized (from best to better) water. Do not ever use city tap or well water when mixing coolant for that Volvo.
May want to check whether the coolant sensor, with the big connector under #3 or so runner, is still good with boiling water, a thermometer, and your trusty multimeter. You can do the same for the coolant sensor that connects to the temp gauge in the dash.
Some teflon tape wrapped around the threads where coolant sensor (copper alloy - more noble) meets the aluminum alloy cylinder (less noble than copper alloy) head. Same for the big coolant tap you use to drain the engine if you remove it entirely for a flush. Engine block is iron alloy (a type of steel, most noble of metal alloys that get wet contact in the coolant).
Hope that helps.
cheers,
dud.
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Hi Dud,
I get your thinking on this but I think it unlikely that Teflon tape will prevent electrical contact between dissimilar metals that are threaded.
Copper will increase the corrosion rate in iron, but when a small mass like a drain plug is in a large iron cylinder block, it has little effect. If it was the other way around and the block was copper, there would be very noticeable corrosion of the iron plug. You may have seen this if you've come across an old copper boiler like people used to use that had an iron drain plug.
By the way, how did that stripped wheel stud resolve itself ?
Peter
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Hi pittroj,
For the one under the manifold, I did split bottom of the hose using a box cutter knife but it came without any issues when I pulled gently.
For installation, it's easier to access if the hose clamp bolt is facing towards radiator/front. I removed the flame trap relocation kit all together. My right elbow was resting against the brake booster and my right hand was holding the clamp in position under the manifold. With my left arm, I grabbed a 3/8" ratchet with a long extension thru in between #3 and #4 manifold for tightening.
Good luck.
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