Ok guys I got it!! I figured it all out and have it running smooth now.

So Peetz and test point, you guys are spot on.

wish I would of read your post earlier Test Point; but I ended up removing the driveshaft from the pinion flange and putting my angle finder against the pinion flange to take my measurement while the suspension was loaded and adjusted the torque arms to make the angle match that of the output shaft (while it was bolted to the pinion flange). just installing a piece thin metal didnt come to mind, but ill have to find something to work next time since it would be much quicker that way.

In hindsight I can see why I had so much trouble and frustrating over two evenings and now got it on the third. My problems lied in my inexperience in setting up a driveline and IPD's misleading directions.

They tell you and show picture of taking the angle measurement for the pinion with the finder at the bottom of the ujoint connecting to the rear DS flange. This will give you an inaccurate reading due to the casting of this part. Taking the angle off the other end this way is fine because it is flat and matches the angle of the output shaft itself. Secondly, if you dont understand how to calculate the working angles, the directions throw you off because they only say to make sure the angles equal and opposite (i.e. +4/-4); they dont give a very good explanation of working angles and how to calculate them, they just tell you to do it; for a novice at it like me, that can be confusing.

It would of been nice if they explained everything a bit more clearly.

So thanks for all the input and theres another notch in my 240 belt.

Perhaps I can help with something useful.
All that is important is that the output shaft of the trans and the pinion shaft of the diff are parallel. They will of course be displaced vertically and horizontally from one another, and that's why you have u-joints. But they have to be parallel. I don't know what IPD says in their instructions but I've built enough cars to know this much.
Remove the driveshaft and put the car on stands. The rear suspension has to be at normal compression ride height. I use the craftsman protractor level with the magnets in it. Flange to flange the angle just has to be the same. Within a degree is perfect within two is good.
With the shaft out check that the u-joints aren't binding. With the new torque rods if the angle changed at all, even for the better, used u-joints may not be happy. Maybe replace them all.
Lots on the board about phasing the shafts and that's critical.
I made my own torque rods years ago to take the power of a 5.0 HO Ford engine. Worked great.

you're swimming without trunks and the water has receded.

the easiest way to eliminate driveshaft vibration is to buy at a junkyard a complete driveshaft assembly and swap it. they are plentiful and generally cheap to procure.

and while you're at it why not replace with stock those ipd extras.