First issue I've had with the 142. It's been parked over the summer so last night I started it. Was hard to start but it finally ran and I let it warm up. Went in for the night after I shut it down.

This morning.. I have power to everything but when I put the key in the dash and try to start I get nothing. No power to the cluster and no turning over. No click. As if the battery is dead but it isn't as I can power the radio, lights, hazards, power..just no power to the ignition switch.

Ideas? All fuses seem to be ok! Popped the cover on the column and nothing looks out of place.

Check voltages. Does your fusebox have power?

The single most common problem here is corroded connections. Wiggle to detect.

Checking power to the switch makes sense, but it's not a slam dunk. The headlight switch is also surprisingly early in the chain on these; oddly enough a failure at the connection there can shut the car down. Anyway, often it ends up being a loose connection type issue. Leave the key on and start wiggling wires under the dash, hoping you might hear a 'click' when you wiggle one and that'll tell you which wire has the bum connection.

In any case, don't go randomly replacing stuff until you know why. First wiggle wires to see if you get lucky, sure, but then get systematic. Bust out your test lead and start following voltage from point to point until you have no voltage where voltage should be. The schematic in your green book will tell you which wires to follow.

Thought id chime in some history
owner after me had issue with the ignition, Only starting problem I had with the 142e was a loose lead on the starter I cleaned it up and had no other problems Hope ya get it her figured out.
Cheers
Dave

Looks like something is wrong with my ignition. The key pulls out and locks at the II position. This is not correct.

Remove the steering column cover and investigate the connections at the electrical switch on the ignition lock.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Eric,

I am attaching a picture. What you see is the key inserted in the only position it will allow and it also locks when removed from that position. It should be traveling back to the position where the key would normally be removed and the column lock. So the only two positions I seem to be allows to use are II and one forward at number III position.

If the key can be removed in any position but "0", you should replace the ignition lock assembly.

I have seen the ignition locks of 1800E/ES, which are very similar, do the same thing and worse.

In one case the steering column lock engaged while the owner was driving on the freeway. Fortunately for him the steering column locked while creeping in bumper to bumper traffic and the steering locked in a direction that took him off the freeway and into the emergency lane.

However, I think you may have another problem with the electrical switch.

Take a picture of the other side of the ignition lock where the switch is mounted and post it, preferably in a smaller format.



--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Eric,

It was to be the locking assembly as I pulled the switch out from the back and manually started it with a screw driver. The metal shaft can be seen turning with the key but it refuses to go to the I and 0 position. It locks and key is removed in II only..and only goes to III. I think I am on the right page with this but I have no clue what the process is for diagnosing the actual assembly.

Most likely your problem is with the key tumbler assembly part of ignition lock.

Unfortunately, you can't easily replace the tumbler assembly like the 122, 544 and pre-1970 1800 Volvos.

I was able to do it for the 1800E/ES ignition locks, but the manufacturer of the replacement tumbler assembly that I was using no longer makes them.

And AFAIK, that manufacturer never made a replacement tumbler for the early 140/160 ignition locks. I know they are different as I tried to install one of the ones that worked on the 1800E/ES lock and although I made it physically fit inside, the 140 ignition lock assembly, the tumbler assembly was not clocked correctly and the key would not turn all the way off.

So your best bet is to find a good used one or if you are lucky, a NOS (New Old Stock) lock.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Here is the other side.