116 k 1993 240. Been driving it for two years. Nice car.
All of a sudden, I notice oil level was almost off the dipstick.
Went to change oil and found filter was jammed down on the motor mount. Both mounts were sheared off at the top.
Replaced both motor mounts and drove OK for ONE DAY.
Next morning, ALL power steering fluid was on the floor of the garage. (May have been leaking all that day I was driving it.)

Not sure where the fluid is coming out. It is all over the drivers side of the PS rack.

The two problems must somehow be related.
Probably need to replace the rack.

Can I drive the car without PS while a rebuilt rack is being delivered?

Any recommendations on a rebuilder?

Well, I removed the two hydralic lines with flare nut fittings. (7/16) Pretty rusty.
One of them had a pin-hole leak. I can just barely hear it when I blow into it.
7/16 indicates to me it is an American part which should be available at auto parts stores.

Hope there is a flexible replacement so I do not have to duplicate the sharp bends. If not, I guess I will have to heat it and bend it over an old baseball bat that I have. Never done this before. Any suggestions? Special tools?

Thanks everyone.

Gay Smith (92 240 106k, 93 240 116k)

Hi,

Your speaking of one of the short metal lines that runs a short distance-one part of rack to another part of the rack?

If this is what you are speaking of, try to find an answer in the archives because a year or two ago someone on here had the same problem that I remember reading about. I do remember his solution was using brake line.

Hope that helps,

Travis

Check those fittings carefully - on the 740, the threads are extra fine - replacements are not available for the fittings.

Also note that the rack metal is softer than the fittings - a prelude to disaster - very easy to damage the threads in the rack.

I recommend that you buy two preformed tubes from Volvo or some other OEM supplier.

On my 740, I purchased a tube for the one leaking, replaced it and the other tube sprung a leak!

The second tube required removal of the first tube - when I reinstalled the first tube, I cross-threaded one of the fittings.

I contacted several GOOD hardware supply houses, the super fine thread was not available. I spent about a month on this.

Result - rebuilt rack.

Replacing the tubes are relatively easy - BE CAREFUL!

Why are you jumping strait to rebuilt rack? Are there other symptoms?

My guess is you damaged, dislodge or disturbed an already damaged PS hose. Second guess is for PS pump reservoir was damage during the replacements. How did you support the motor for the mount replacements?

FYI, 116K miles on an original Volvo mount by the oil filter is on the low side but not unusual. 116K miles for the drivers side mount is unheard of short (in my opinion). Everything is possible but I really look sideways at the mileage being accurate.

I hope you used Volvo OEM or well respected aftermarket substitutes.

Motor supported with hydralic jack under the oil pan. But I was careful toinclude some additional support before I put my fingers in there, like the tire jack or a piece of 1 by 6 and wooden wedge. Setting this additional support may be where I got the pinhole leak in one of the hydralic lines.

Regarding the mounts, I notice that Bentley was silent regarding their replacement. Except for the few pages were they discuss pulling the entire engine. Page 210-3: "Note the location of any spacers under the mounts so they can be reinstalled in the same position." This suggests to me that the factory mechanic is (or was) directed to install spacers, as necessary, to minimize contortion when the engine was first mated with the frame in 1993. This may or may not have been done, depending on how much schnaps ( or whatever they call it in Sweden) the mechanic drank the night before.

At any rate, I had two decapitated motor mounts( marked Volvo) and no spacers; and when I finally got the new mounts installed, I had plenty of contortion.( My 92 has no contortion and looks good for the life of the car.)
My plan is to drive the 93 for a week or so, then keeping it on 4 wheels, wiggle under there and insert spacers, as necessary, to remove this contortion. This should not be too difficult. There are three 15mm bolts to the frame and three 12mm bolts to the motor. May have to cut a chunk out of a few 15mm washers with a hack saw ( if these are not already available at Auto parts or hardware ). Then wait a few years and see how things look. My guess in that my two $5 motor mounts from eEuroparts will be OK.

Thanks for your comments.

Thanks for your comments.

Please do not use the oil pan to support engine weight in any instance.

I've seen people use the oil pan to support the engine weight either on the lift saddle or on wood planks on top of the lift saddle.

Either way, minimum risk is nothing happens, or you shift the pan and induce leaks at the oil pan gasket, or the oil pan collapses, braking the oil pump delivery pipe or damaging the oil pump itself.

I've used the plate secured to the North American driver side housing to which the A/C and power steering pump to support the engine during a motor mount replace.

Or use the overhead engine support method as is oft-mentioned in numerous articles and threads.

Also, please check your transmission mount. If both engine mounts are sheared, the transmission mount you have their has encountered inordinate stresses causing premature failure.

Hope that helps.

Buttermilk MacDuff.
--
buttermilk and sourdough

In the future, I strongly suggest using the support from above method. The rig is cheap, easy to assemble and always idiot-proof...it is also is 100% guaranteed not to damage anything but the paint on your lifting eyes for the motor.

"The two problems must somehow be related. Probably need to replace the rack."

Don't assume that. A leak indicates a leak not a damaged rack.

Check the hoses to the PS rack. They're in the vicinity of the driver side engine mount and may have been loosened or damaged.

Wipe the area down. Add a bit of fluid and watch for its exit.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.